Question about 1995 Buick Park Avenue

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Charge problem Ampmeter stays on discharge for a few seconds then goes to charge really slow. Have had 2 dead batteries. Voltage regulator?

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Sounds like you have a short somewere
open hood shut all doors with key off
unhook the Neg.wire from battery
make sure there is no hood light
then tip the Neg. cable end to battery
post if it spark's,then you have a short or
mabe a trunk light staying on.
Maybe this will get you started, good luck

Posted on Sep 09, 2009

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Sounds like the alternator/voltage regulator. Take the car to an autoparts store and have them test the alternator output. Most parts stores will test the alternator for free. There is a definite charging problem if it has killed two batteries. Sorry for your trouble and I hope this helped. Best wishes.

Posted on Sep 09, 2009

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Cut car off now its doin nothing won't click won't do anything


The first thing to check is the battery. Turn on the inside dome light. If it fails to light, then check the battery itself for voltage. If it is totally dead, then have the charging system checked. The battery seldom dies completely unless there is a bigger issue, such as a bad alternator. If the dome light works, with it on, try turning the key to the start position. One of three things should happen.

1. The light goes completely out, and nothing else happens. This may still be a battery issue. The starter requires a considerable amount of current to activate, and a dead battery will prevent this. The car would cut off once the battery voltage drains below approximately 8 volts.

2. The light stays the same brightness. This would mean that the starter circuit is malfunctioning, since the current needed to start the car should make the light dim slightly during cranking.

3. The light dims slightly. If this occurs without any other indications, it could be a bad starter. Usually the solenoid kicks in, engaging the starter to the flywheel. This action starts the starter motor turning. If there is some issue with the starter solenoid, it could be trying to engage, but not successfully.

Of the three issues above, my best guess would be #1. You my have had a bad alternator or regulator diode and discharged the battery below the level to operate the vehicle. The battery may be able to be recharged, but its life would be shortened considerably. The real issue is to fix the charging problem. This is usually an alternator or regulator (if the regulator is separate from the alternator).

Oct 22, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

2002 mazda protege 5 new battery the alternator putting out high voltages battery light stays on take off from a stop car goes slow and rpms stays between 2-3


You have two different problems. An overcharging alternator won't be enough to rob you of THAT much vehicle power, so something else is responsible for that. Is your park brake on?

When you say "high voltages", do you mean like 13.5 - 13.8V or significantly higher than that? That's the range it really SHOULD be charging at - lower or higher mean your alternator isn't working right. Or rather, your voltage regulator isn't working right.

Aug 07, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

999 ford taurus if it sits for 2 or 3 days the battery is dead how do you track a short


Use a volt meter or test light, disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery post. If the meter reads 12 volts or if the test light is lit start pulling one fuse at a time until the meter reads zero or the test light goes out.

Make note of what circuit the fuse protects then start working your way back from there. It cold be as simple as a dome light being left on but you need to narrow down where the problem may be located.

I hope this helps, good luck!

Apr 17, 2014 | 1999 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

Ac/heater fan slows and headlights dim intermittently on our 2003accord ex 6 cylinder


engine running or not,,??????
bad battery
or dead charging system.
rusty battery terminals.
check battery voltage parked key in pocket, see 12.65vdc.
if lower , on a warm day the battery is discharged
or at 30F it must be.12.58vdc, rested, if not the battery is discharged
or battery is bad.
if discharged , then charge it.
and fix the bad charging system.
ok you jump start car.
and the battery voltage is 13.3 to 15vdc, if not the charge system is failing, or engine RPM below 800.
if running voltage is below 13.3v the charge system is failing running.

Jan 10, 2014 | 2003 Honda Accord

1 Answer

Battery light alternator


The Charge lamp comes on with the Alternator fails to keep battery charge going. (lots of way to fail, and ALT Is 100% good) it's a system. each part of it must be good, end to end.
so...
i put my voltmeter across battery, i start car, i see 13.3 to 15vdc, alt is good.
no? , i see now, 12.2v. ALt is dead, (i didnt say bad) and battery is sightly discharged, 12.6v is charged. (key off, rested voltage)
This 12v tells me the ALT is shut down. only why is the question.

how can any charge system fail,
bad battery tops the list here, they LOVE to fail.
1: belt slips.
2: belt missing
3: bad alt.
4: bad wires to ALT . (corrosion on any wire or lug)
5: fuses blown , any listed below.:
your alt is not an ECU controlled, alt ,its 100% self contained

did you ever remove the ALT and blow the 100 amp fuseable link
the first step of any alt pul, is the pull the NEG, battery lug or BOOM.

im logged in to alldata.com so can you.

and what do i see.
a 5 wire ALT. one is the frame ground, so it must not be rusty or..... it fails. frame to engine block. no rust here.

wire L , yellow.goes to dash LEDs (alt failure idiot lamps) (this works)
wire. S white goes to ALT 5a fuse, is it blown?
wire :B B/G color, goes to the 100 amp link fuse. (blown>?)
wire IG Red-white, goes to a fuse marked 10A gauge.

i think the IG wire is the voltage sense wire.
no sense, no charge. I think the whole I/P dash cluster goes dead when this fuse blows.

The S wire is the boot strap voltage sense, it wakes up the regulator .
if open , the reg stays asleep, as does ALT.
Alternators can not self start, the regulator has boot strap device
that cures that. called self excitation. so this wire is critical.
All wires except the L wire is critical. in this case.

the B wire is the big wire, it charges the battery . 50amps or more..

any of the 5 paths open , kills the ALT dead.
The REG inside the ALT can also shut it down.
eg: battery bad, with huge cell resistances. total.
eg: overvoltge for any reasons. including attempts top run car with no battery, (dont ask)
eg: over current (battery cells 1 to 6 shorted) or 25 KC lamps added.
eg: over temperature shut down.

that is about it.







Dec 31, 2013 | 2003 Toyota Matrix

2 Answers

1995 explorer new battery new alternator battery light still stays on battery goes dead within-2 hours of driving any hints top look for?


Hello, the battery light on your Ford is controlled by the voltage regulator. If the light is on it's indicating the battery is not charging, and is being discharged. If you have a volt meter you can test at the battery. With the engine running the voltage should read at least 13.5vdc. If it's lower than that, the alternator is not charging, or the charge is not reaching the battery. Another simple test, is remove the negative battery cable, if the engine dies the alternator is not charging. Autozone will test your alternator and your battery for free, if you do not have any test equipment. If you just replaced the alternator and it failed the test, it should be under warranty. Same with the battery.

I hope this information is helpful.

Sep 03, 2011 | 1995 Ford Explorer

1 Answer

96 buick century battery goes dead after car idle for 2 days.clock stays on 24/7.Power windows very slow.


Mine does same thing but occasionally will stay charged for up to 5 days! So far no answers except to hook up the charger every few days...

Dec 31, 2010 | 1996 Buick Century

1 Answer

Battery won't charge.


Check your altinator wires are clean and tight.I have had some cars with that problem and its been the altinator regulator is the fault. Allthough the charge light goes out its still faulty.

Nov 18, 2009 | Mitsubishi Pickup Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

New batteries and alt. still no charge.


Generator with Integral Rear Mount Voltage Regulator, Internal Fan Type With the key in the RUN position, voltage is applied through the charge indicator lamp I circuit to the voltage regulator. This turns the voltage regulator on, allowing current to flow from the battery sense A circuit to the generator field coil. When the engine (6007) is started, the generator (GEN) (10346) begins to generate alternating (AC) current which is converted to direct (DC) current by the rectifier internal to the generator. This current is then supplied to the vehicle's electrical system through the battery positive voltage (B+) terminal located on the rear of the generator. Once the generator begins generating current, a voltage signal is taken from the stator and fed back to the voltage regulator S circuit, turning off the charge indicator/lamp. With the system functioning normally, the generator output current is determined by the voltage at the A circuit. This voltage is compared to a set voltage internal to the voltage regulator, and the voltage regulator controls the generator field current to maintain proper generator output. The set voltage will vary with temperature and is typically higher in the winter than in the summer, allowing for better battery recharge. With the system functioning normally, the generator output current is determined by the voltage of the A circuit (battery sense voltage). The A circuit voltage is compared to a set voltage internal to the voltage regulator, which controls the generator field current to maintain proper output. The set voltage will vary with temperature and is typically higher in the winter than in the summer, allowing for better battery recharge in the winter and reducing the chance of overcharging the battery in the summer. A fuse link is included in the charging system wiring on all vehicles. The fuse link is used to prevent damage to the wiring harness and generator if the wiring harness should become grounded, or if a booster battery with the wrong polarity is connected to the charging system. Mitsubishi 215-Ampere Generator
The Mitsubishi 215-ampere generator is an internally regulated, brushless unit that is self-current limiting and temperature compensating. The regulator is integral with the generator and the fan is external.

VISUAL INSPECTION CHART Mechanical Electrical
  • Before attempting to test a battery, it is important to give it a thorough examination to determine if it has been damaged.
  • Batteries are tested to determine the state of charge and ability to crank an engine. The result of these tests is to show that the battery is either good, needs recharging, or must be replaced.
  • Preliminary checks to the charging system should be made regardless of the fault condition. These checks include:
    • Check the fuses/fuse links to the generator to ensure that they are not burned or damaged. This condition, resulting in an open circuit or high resistance, can cause erratic or intermittent charging system concerns.
    • Check battery posts and cable terminals for clean and tight connections. Clean the posts and the cables to ensure good electrical contact.
    • Check for secure connections at the generator output, voltage regulator and engine ground. Also check the connection at the power distribution point.
    • Check the generator drive belt to ensure proper tension and no slip between the generator pulley and the drive belt. Refer to Section 03-05 in the Powertrain, Drivetrain Manual.
    • Check battery for full charge.
  • Before performing charging system tests on the vehicle, note conditions such as: slow cranking, discharged battery, charge indicator lamp stays on with engine running, charge indicator lamp does not illuminate with ignition switch in RUN and engine not running, etc. This information will aid in isolating the part of the system causing the symptom.
  • When a relatively new battery is discharged, test for current drain. The following are some of the most common current drain concerns:
    • Glove compartment lamp stays on with the door closed.
    • Engine compartment lamp stays on constantly.
    • License plate lamp or interior lamp stays on constantly.
    • Other electronic component concerns.

Aug 14, 2009 | 2005 Ford F 350 Super Duty

1 Answer

After having replaced both starter and alternator, the truck ran fine but the ampmeter had low readings that fluctuated. Now the battery is dead again. Will a bad battery cause the ampmeter to give low...


a bad battery shouldn't give you low ammeter readings if you jump the vehicle and it stays running the alt is probably working if you have a meter to test it there should be 14-14 1/2 give or take if it is charging

May 12, 2009 | 1992 Ford F150 SuperCab

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