Question about 1999 Jeep Wrangler
Only happens within first 5-8 minutes of starting to drive. mainly in 2nd and third gear, while I'm driving the rpm's start to drop and the cars feels as if it is going to die. it starts to lurch as if I'm a horrible manual transmission driver, meanwhile I have not done anything but keep mu foot on the gas. To get it so I don't stall on the road, I have to drop gears or throw it in neutral, rev the engine and come back into gear. Once it starts, it happens for the next few minutes and then clears up. to me it feels as if there is a clog that the fuel cannot get by. My mechanics want to replace the whole pump. is that really necessary? thanks guys
Think I'd consider maybe replacing IAT sensor (intake air temperature sensor) , and cleaning the IAC motor before all that. The IAT basically tells the PCM what's going on temperature wise at the intake manifold, thus if it gives same reading when engine cold & needs more fuel, as it does once engine is warmed up, then you will experience the symptoms you are experiencing now. The IAC motor can be removed and spray cleaned with throttle body cleaner, (watch your eyes & hands) as well as spray into port you remove it from, as this may not be the cause, but may contribute, but if it were me, I'd change IAT sensor first & see what happens. If your mechanics want to change your fuel pump, tell them to test fuel pressure when first started cold and symptoms would be present, then test again after engine warmed up & running good. There should be a difference, as in lower pressure when cold. If once it's warmed up & you can accelerate well down the highway and experience no cutting out or bogging down as when cold, then I don't see why they are so sure it's fuel pump because it would do it then as well?
Posted on Sep 08, 2009
Testimonial: "Thanks for bringing a new idea into the mixx. This sounds like it may be the issue as well. Your last point has been my main concern all along! thank"
Your fuel filter is part of the regulator located on top of the fuel pump. Though it is outside the tank, on many you need to drop the tank to get at it. Likely the shop wants to replace the entire thing because they do not want to take the tank down twice if changing the filter/regulator does not fix the problem. If you were my customer, I'd give you that option but make it clear that if the tank needed to be removed a second time you would need to pay for that. If the shop uses good quality parts and guarantee their work, there is nothing wrong with a complete exchange but I'd want to save the old pump as a possible "spare part" needing only a regulator to be returned to service. in an emergency situation.
Posted on Sep 08, 2009
Testimonial: "thanks for the sound advice man. much appreciated."
This doesn't even sound like a fuel pump problem to me (but I'm not a 'pro').
It sounds more like the ECU doesn't reliably realize the engine is warm enough to reduce the fuel in the fuel-air ratio; kind of like an old-fashioned choke that is failing/not opening as it should.
If your pro doesn't own one, I'd have the ECU memory scanned at any of the auto parts stores, they do it free.
I don't know which engine you have but it probably doesn't matter. Have they done pressure checks on the system to make sure the problem is with the pump? I have replaced two fuel pressure regulators on I-6 engines that had caused similar pressure-related problems.
Posted on Sep 08, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
check the in-line fuel filter if so equippe. if there is none then it could be a weak fuel pump. have a shop attach a fuel pressure gauge to check pump condition
Posted on Jan 28, 2010
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