Question about Dodge Ram Pickup 1500

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Replaced starter on 94 dodge ram 1500 5.9 liter 2 wd, put new starter on still would not start, had battery checked its ok. removed starter it works fine off truck reinstalled and not enough juice getting to starter to make it turn ver and I lose power (electrical)

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Your battery may check out fine, being 5.9 liter take a big amperage to turn that starter over 12volt does not mean a thing, amperage is what count. Every auto part store they sell many types of battery and they all 12V but different amperage. Your battery may check out 12V but amperage may have gotten weak. Check all your negative ground that you have good contact to body chassis. You can also try to get a jump from other truck (friends) that has a higher or same amperage as yours to see if it turn over. using jumper cables connect positive cable straight to your positive post and the negative directly to your motor metal ground and see that will also assist the amperage to turn over that starter. This way we can truly eliminate the battery if it does not start. If that don't work than its you ground connections or positive contact. check both positive and negative cables from your battery making sure the wires is good. Inspect the ground wire to your starter making sure it has good contact. Oil and rust will make give a bad contact. If your hear the serenoid clicking when the key is turn over and you can hear the starter making a strong clicking noise to the flywheel but not able to turn your fly wheel, and we try to jump with addition battery increasing the amperage along with good starter, all the gound wires check out, chances are your motor may be lock up. The only way to check if your motor/flywheel is lock up, take all the spark plugs out that way it will reduce your compression, take a big close end box wrench and put it on the main crank pulley and try to turn the main crank pulley over by hand. Go from there and re-post and let us know, one of us will try to continue to walk you through it.

Posted on Sep 08, 2009

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First check starter relay in electrical box under hood , drivers side, make sure its not that, the starter has a solenoid, thats the first part to get juice when you turn the key, the solenoid is a coil of wire with a plunger rod in the center and when it gets power from turning the key it creates a magnetic field ,which then moves the plunger in rapidly and also engages the small gear. On the plunger is also a large copper ring which then makes contact with the copper studs which send the juice to the starter. There is a large red wire and a small black wire that go to the solenoid make sure those contacts are clean, sometimes those contacts get dirty or oily or if the coil itself gets oily from being inside the engine it will have a weak magnetic field and not fully insert the plunger to make contact with the copper studs that goes to the starter. I have removed solenoids and flushed them with brake cleaner and they were like new again with a strong magnetic field. Ok lets sum it all up. 1. check for clean positive and negative cables on battery posts 2. check negative cable going to a clean ground on engine and/or from solenoid to chassie 3. check clean connections to solenoid and starter 4. make sure where starter bolts to engine is clean 5. check solenoid coil (if older) for dirty or oily coil (which would reduce magnetic field) 6. Check or clean contacts where plunger meets starter lugs 7.Now... It's suppose to start...good luck

Posted on Oct 12, 2009

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I don't know what you got going there, but most people would have shot that truck in the head along time ago, you must a lot of patience. 1, 10 to 12 liters is for a complete rebuild, you are only dumping out none, you should not have to ad any oil. Just check it with the dipstick.2 you have 2 oil coolers in the line, how did you manage that? in out in out? 3, Get the thing up there in line with the engine, move it in close, line up the bolt holes, get a couple bolts started, keep the tranny supported, so far so good, put in a cross member while it is still loose, don't tighten anything up yet, you are still aligning, get the flywheel spun around till a bolt lines up, remove 3 or 4 spark plugs and it will spin easier, put in bolt, then spin it around again to the next bolt and put it in, get all of them in before tightening them up, Now you can start tightening up all your bolts, cross members, drive shafts, hook up he shifter, electrics, speedometer, etc. You don't want any oil leaks, do not take out the torque converter, you will upset the seal. If it doesn't start, your neutral safety switch is out of align. You will have to loosen it up and move it just a fraction till the starter clicks on. Don't forget the spark plugs! Hope this helps.

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You said it's a new start that was tested thoroughly, but just wanted to point out that if the drive mechanism is damaged or hung up, the motor may spin but not crank the engine. The drive gear should move out when the starter starts to spin, if it's locked up or turns freely either way, the drive is bad and needs to be replaced.

The other possibility is that the flywheel has some broken or damaged teeth that are preventing the starter from engaging. It may sound far fetched but there are really only a couple of reasons why the flywheel wouldn't be spinning, as a starter has a LOT of torque and shouldn't have any problem at all moving the flywheel.

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