Same prob as above, and GM really seems to realize it. I just worry that it could happen while heading into some intersection with oncoming traffic. If I get off the gas, and re-press the accellerator it takes care of itself, but that is still not acceptable in my opinion. The dealership said they couldn't duplicate the issue, but I find that near impossible to believe as it happens more often than not when easing into the gas from a slow roll.
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Problems like this is really hard to troubleshoot from a sentence but I'll give it my best shot.
A mechanic will typically check all the cruise control related fuses.....then relays. After these steps, it can go on and on. There's a good chance it's the fuses though. Good Luck =)
I AM HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM BUT MINE ONLY COMES ON WHEN I AM IN GEAR, IDLEING AT A STOPLIGHT OR IN A DRIVE THRU. TOOK IT TO GM AND THEY ARE TELLING ME IT IS A "P0300 AND P0301" CODES WHICH SAYS IT A VALVE TRAIN MIS-FIRE ( TO FIX IT IS A 2000.00 HEAD JOB) AND THAT IS WHY THE STABILITRAK AND ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON!!! IN MY RESEARCH SO FAR I HAVE FOUND NOTHING THAT TIES THE TWO TOGETHER.
I HAVE 102,000 MILES ON MINE AND IT RUNS PERFECT AND MPG IS THE SAME AS THE DAY I GOT IT. I WILL KEEP YOU UP ON WHAT FURTHER I FIND. I AM NOW IN CONTACT WITH THE GM DISTRICT SUPERVISOR.
when the wheels slip the computer detects it and reduces how fast the engine will spin to allow you to get the car moving without continuing to spin the wheels. If the light stays on even after your moving their is a malfuction in the system and it needs to be serviced. This also happens if you try to spin the tires on a hard acceleration and it will reduce the rpms so you won;t squeel the tires. Most cars have a button to turn it off (will say traction off when pressed) and will allow the wheel slippage, then its all the driver to keep the wheels from slipping..
i have had this problem since about 6 months after i bought my 2001 impala. the problem is in the hubs. the wireing that runs throw them rubs together and eventually shorts the traction and abs. easy solution to fix it though. get into the hubs and wrap the wires. otherwise take the car in and explain the problem to them and exactly what you need done. 9-10 times they won't fix the problem unless you tell them what you want done. it is really simple and going to the dealer should only cost you about 100 to fix.
you will have get the system electronic control module tested by a GM dealer to determine the exaxct cause of the problem, the parts in the system cost a chunk of change so guessing is really a bad idea, I will say that the usual cause is a defective wheel speed sensor, there are four of them, one at each wheel.
You are loosing power Because the Computer is Shifting the Transmission in to Traction Low to get out of the Situation. The ABS Light is coming on due to Wheel spin. It is telling you that there has been an Unexpected Incident and to slow down.
The "traction active" light is a light that lets you know when a certain part of your Anti lock break system engages. Each tire has a sensor that detects a couple different things in the wheels. One of the sensors may be going bad and needs replaced. Any of these sensors going bad can cause those symptoms.
I would have a comp. check on the abs system to see whitch wheel is running faster or slower than the others.You may have a wheel bearing sensor that is going bad.This always seems to be the prob. seen as how the traction control gets it's info from the wheel speed.
Hi,check the voltage at the battery as you try to crank it for starter draw.I worked on a gm the other day that had the same symptoms.It ended up being the battery.It had 12.2 volts until i turned the key to the start position,then it dropped to 5 volts.Had a dead cell.Hope this helps.Good Luck!!!
YOU MUST TURN THE TRACTION SWITCH OFF THE BUTTOM IS ON THE RIGHT SIDE OFF THE CENTER CONSOLE HOLD THAT BUTTON FOR A FEW SEC AND LOOK AT THE DISPLAY IT SHOULD SAY TRACTION OFF OR STABALIZE SYSTEM OFF TRY THAT OUT.