It seems without reason. So far I removed the hack job of a remote starter. I thought that was it for sure. There was bare wires all over the place under the dash. The fuse has blew with engine off and key in on position as well as when I was driving. The times that I was driving, I was accelerating when it blew.
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Re: ecm fuse blows (sometimes)
The wiring can be a complete nightmare .that i can assure you ....however note for an aftermarket lever is about 75.00 or a far lower price to go to a salvage yard its about 300.00 from dealership but either way if you cannot figure out this mess and you have tilt} steering wheel and often the wires bend and break causing lots of issues as well if the 4way button breaks its a mere must replace as most every feature will not function
the wires at the 1st connection are spot tacked into place and removal is impossible you must remove the under panel on driver side and remove the bolt to the harness as well it sits way back in there so an extension is needed
this would be my recommendation to remove the lever itself there is 2 screws under neath the column and remove both the top and bottom half of the housing and expose the 4 way and lever its all1 piece turn the wheel until you find the flat-spot to allow you to remove the torque screw the top one is easily right there and reverse procedure is the install but ensure the 4 way button is all the way engaged when installing the top panel portion of the column so not to break the 4 way switch as well note put the wheel all the way down to allow you that extra gain in obtaining this install
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I was going to say you had a short from the fuse to the relay. But since you have to play with the other relays, replace the fuse panel. Only thing is the harness goes with it. You can repair it with patience. Remove the battery and alternator cables on the side. Look down the side you will see two clips, release them and pull the panel up. There are several clips to release to get the bottom off. Repair what you see burnt.
A short in the ECM , does it blow the fuse right away ? or does the vehicle start then it blows the fuse ?A short in the wiring going to the ECM could do it also ! Disconnect the connector at the ECM Pull the fuse an check the wire with a ohm meter ! starter has nothing to do with, has a short to ground somewhere on that ECM power feed circuit .You need to find a wiring diagram for that circuit. Connector 2 black 24 pin connector , A-2 pink wire . first you need to find correct side of the fuse pin without power , with volt meter , one side will battery voltage ,you don't want that one ! put black lead to ground an the other to the wire an see if there is continuity. Hope this isn't to long winded an I hope it helps !
Does the fuse blow when the wipers are off or when you turn the wipers on? A fuse blowing means either a short circuit or an overload. Lets say that your wiper transmission is new and working properly, then an overload is probably blowing the fuse which is caused by the circuit pulling to much current because something is not aligned correctly and moving freely when the wiper motor is turned on. Before you connect the arms to the transmission, move the arm assembly manually with your hand to make sure the wipers go across and back on the windshield. This will verify that the arm assembly is moving freely and not jamming. Then turn the wiper transmission without connecting the wiper arms and see if the transmission is working properly and not blowing the fuse. This will verify that your wiper transmission is not defective. Check the wiring going to the wiper transmission for any bare spots or nicks on the wire insulation. If you have a bare spot or nick that is touching metal, the fuse will blow (this is called a short circuit). If you find a bare spot or nick on the wire use electrician tape to insulate the bare spot or nick. Usually three wraps of electrician tape around the bare spotor nick will do the job. Oh, make sure to replace the fuse with the correct amp fuse. Your car dealer auto parts can provide the information (over the phone) on the correct amp size. You can purchase the fuse at any auto parts. FYI: Too small an amp on the fuse will blow when the wiper is turned on. Too large of a fuse will cause the wiring to burn if your wipers should stop shifting and jam. Good Luck. Hope this helps.
Check exactly when you do have a blown fuse as you are driving and in turning or as you driving normally. Also check the wires between E.C.M and Engine. The fuel Supply cuts off surely as soon as the E.C.M Fuse is blown because the fuel supply is going through the E .C. M.
Hello! Just because you changed an engine does not mean that something unrelated hasn't occurred... In the fuse box is the 10A fuse in the far left row...Third fuse down?....If it is that is the ECM ignition Fuse...Tracing from the ignition switch it is a Pink wire that goes to a 3A in-line fuse and changes color to Purple/White then on to the ECM...When the fuse blows is there battery on the Pink wire?...If not...Pull the blown fuse...Disconnect the main Battery terminal...Set multimeter to the X 10 scale...Place one lead on each side of the pulled fuse socket and the other lead to bare metal ground...Does either side read resistance to ground?...If it does turn the ignition key from off...To ACC,.. to start and finally hold on run...Does the ground go away in any of those positions? if it does I would suspect one of the ignition switch wires is touching ground...Hard to find...But if you alligator clip the meter in place and wiggle the ignition wires you may see it come and go...Indicating where you are moving the harness the bare wire is pinched to ground... However...If the movement of the key does not produce a change...Remove the fuse box...Flip it over... identify the wire on the fuse that blows and trace it with meter in-place wiggling as you move through the harness until you find the bare spot touching ground...
An easier softer way is to identify the color of the wire that connects to the ECM IGN FUSE...It will be Red, or Purple/White and go to the ignition switch...Cut it on both ends and run a wire of the same gauge from point to point...Guru...Saailer
i have a 1998 3500, with the 5.7v-8, and fought electrical problems for eight months now. i believe it is a problem within the chevy van, because a lot of people complain about blown fuses. my fuse was the ecm-b fuse as well, and after cleaning all the grounds and bat. connections, starter connections, and disabling the a/c circuit, on the advice of another poor van owner i replaced the ignition coil. six months so far, and no problems. this might help you as well. mine did not have any visable problems, but he was persistant, so i did it. good luck