It seems that when i have the wheel cranked and I am braking at the same time...my brake pedal pulses almost how it would if u needed new pads which is not the case since I recently replaced all rotars and brakes 3weeks ago...today my abs light came on and my 4wd light started flashing at the same time...any idea what this could be???
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Even though your anit-lock brake system light comes on, dosen't mean your brakes will not work. All the ABS does, when applying the breaks, it compensates breaking power like pulsating your pads off and on the rotor in which without ABS your doing the same thing manually by pressing n releasing the brake pedal. And usually half the time it's a sensor that goes out and can be checked at your local autozone or auto parts store where they can plug into your car and will display a code that pertains to your ABS problem. Hope this helps.
you abs sensor is damaged or dirty,call car repair place to tell you where it's at,auto zones a good place to call,it's in the front wheel.clean or replace,the abs sensor checks the rotation of the wheel,when it goes out,you have normal power brakes and the light stayes on
ABS is anti-lock braking system. It is a range of four sensors which monitor the braking capability when you apply the brakes. If you are harsh and stamp on the brake pedal there is a risk of the wheels locking up and sliding (screeching from the tires).
The ABS sensors modulate the brake caliper pistons andapply and let go the brakes very quickly. This stops the tires from skidding and you will feel a pulse through the brake pedal as the hydraulic system is forced to release the pedal slightly for a fraction of a second.
As ABS stops your car from skidding it allows you to turn the steering when you are braking hard. This is good news for avoiding accidents. If you lock the wheels on a non ABS car, you continue in the direction of the wheels - unless you release the brakes and reapply quickly (same method as ABS) this is called cadence braking but when involved with a potential accident the last thing on people's minds is to release the brake pedal. Having only owned older cars, cadence braking is one method I've learned, especially from driving in the snow.
The last poster is absolutely correct. The Brake Booster is leaking engine vaccuum into the vehicle through the firewall. This is a fairly common issue on older Tributes. There is an updated Brake Booster and Gasket available from Mazda. I do suggest replacing both the booster and gasket but just a gasket may do. Good luck.
The stop light switch is sticking. If it's a mechanical one that is operated by the movement of the brake pedal the replace the switch. If a hydraulic one is fitted, remove one wire and see if the stop lights go off. If so then replace the hydraulic switch.