1993 Mercury Villager LS, 3.0L 6c...The manifold gasket, and exhaust flange gasket needs to be replaced. I took it to 3 well respected auto-mechanic facilities - and they all told me to kick rocks, essentially. None of them could do this and they wouldn't tell me why beyond "it's too hard". When I asked how much it would take to fix it, they threw numbers at me ranging from 2 to 4 thousand dollars. For 2 pieces of rubber?!? When I asked if I could do it, they laughed. I went ahead and ordered an online repair manual and basically got robbed, as it does not have the info I need, a step by step set of instructions, et al. I'm about to go postal - Why is this work so hard, and where can I find an affordable and informative manual? Thank you in advance for your time and help.
Most likely you would have to pull the motor in order to access the manifold. I don't know why they couldn't have explained this to you more thoroughly? You can look for a Haynes manual, it should tell you how to do this procedure.
Try either going to your local public library(beleive it or not) and try ALLDATA .COM. or u can go online and for about $26.00 for one year /one vehicle you can subscribe to ALLDATA.COM. THEY HAVE THE BEST INFO AND DIAGRAMS. ALSO IF YOURE TALKING ABOUT EXHAUST MANIFOLD TRY GETTING A PRICE FROM AN EXHAUST SPECIALIST/SHOP, it doesnt have to be meineke or midas necessarily.
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There are left and right catalytic converters and it looks like each has a flange gasket on each one where they connect with the exhaust pipe. The pipe connector at the manifold should be a taper flange without a gasket.
You can get the gaskets at most any auto parts store, or the Ford dealer. Left and right should be the same.
Easier done than said! Don't be intimidated by the complexity of this job. You can save hundreds of dollars by doing this simple task in you driveway or garage. This is one of the easier replacements that I have done on a 4WD but there needs to be a little preparation. Exhaust pipe doesn't need to be removed for the 2WD model. Tools required: For the removal of the exhaust pipe form the exhaust manifold 17 mm deep well Impact socket ½ in drive 12 in extension for socket and ratchet ½ in drive breaker bad/ratchet w/12 in extension ½ in drive swivel for the socket For the removal of the exhaust pipe a the flange Reciprocating saw w/metal cutting blade For the removal of the starter Assorted sockets and wrenches for other bolts and nuts Floor jack and 2 jack stands Parts needed: Exhaust Manifold-to-pipe crushable gasket High Temp caulking for the exhaust pipe flange gasket. Starter 2 Bolts, nuts and washers for the exhaust pipe flange Procedure: Jack the front of the vehicles and place on the jack stands. Take the battery terminal off. Get up under the vehicles and spray WD-40 on the 3 nuts that hold the exhaust pipe on the exhaust manifold and on the 02 sensor that is just below them. Let this sit overnight for breaking purposes. Next day, remove the 02 sensor and using the 17 mm deep well socket, 12 in extension and breaker bar, remove the 3 nuts that were sprayed the night before. This should take about 3 minutes and a little "elbow grease". There is no need in removing the second 02 sensor but it does need to be unplugged at the connector just above it. Next locate the flange about 4 feet aft of the loosened manifold and using the Reciprocating saw, cut the welded on nuts from the back of the flange that is holding the bolts on. Retain the metal gasket for reuse. This should take about 5 minutes. The loose pipe should be free to move a limited space but it will be enough to get the starter out of the hole that it is in. Remove the aluminum shield from below the area where the starter is and remove the 2 bolts holding the starter on. Drop it down where you can remove the cable and small plastic connector next to it. The starter should come out of the confined space that it is in. You will simply go back in reverse order to replace the starter. Ensure that a new gasket is used with the exhaust manifold and 2 good beads of High Temp caulking is used on the rear flange gasket. I suspect that the different models have varying degrees of difficulty. On 1998 Amigo 2.2, the bottom bolt can only be accessed by somebody with very small hands and the top bolt appears to be inaccessible. Answer #2 (massive pain) does apply to some models.
Changing the oil pan gasket on a GMC Yukon XL is realtively simple, but does require removal of the exhaust pipe. You will need a new oil pan gasket and a new exhaust pipe flange gasket. Put the car on ramps or jacks to access the undercarriage. Remove the exhaust pipe by removing the 3 nuts holding the exhaust pipe flange to the exhaust manifold. These nuts often rust and prior application of penetrating oil may be required to remove them without damage. Once the pipe is unbolted, work the exhaust system loose from the hanging brackets. In most cases the entire system does not have to be removed since there is enough room to remove the pan with only the front hangers removed. Drain the oil from the engine Remove the 10 mm bolts holding the pan to the block. Remove the old gasket material and scrape any remaining gasket from the block and pan. Install the new gasket. Forma-Gasket or a similar product may be used in small quantities to "glue" the new gasket in place and prevent shifting while the pan is reattached to the block. Reinsall the 10 mm bolts in a cross pattern to ensure the gasket is compressed evenly. Do not overtighten the bolts. Replace the pipe to flange gasket between the exhaust pipe and the exhaust manifold with a new part. Reattach the exhuast pipe to the hangers. Install the 3 bolts connecting the pipe flange to the exhaust manifold. Fill the engine with oil.
It could possibly be the joints in the exhaust manifold. The body and engine may flex differently in reverse. Since the engine is cold as are the pipes, a gap in a exhaust flange gasket could transmit a noise until everything heats up.