Question about 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe

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THE KEY WORKS BUT THE HANDLE TO LIFT THE DOOR MOVES BUT DOES NOT SEEM TO ENGAGE THE MECHANISM TO RELEASE THE DOOR

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The latch does have an adjustment on it. if you take it to any autozone store they will loan you the tools and show you how to adjust the latch. it is a free service that they offer.

Posted on Sep 07, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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2006 Jag xj, passengers door cannot be opened either from inside or outside. The inside door handle is in a "half cocked" position and I have tried all I can think of with combinations of Key...


I would confer with your Jag dealer on this one. Removing the door panel with the door closed is a real problem and they may have an easy fix without risking damaging anything. From what you say it sounds like the normal door release mechanism is not engaged but that the lock is. All I can suggest is to wind the window down and to do a combination waggling the 'half cocked' internal release handle back and forth whilst at the same time physically unlocking the door lock and/or using the central locking fob; press the door into the door jam at the same time to take pressure off the frame catch.

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2002 Hyundai Elantra Drivers dorr Lock Jammed not unlocking properly. Lock lever on inside and key on outside are stuck and door move bery much and will not unlock car. Originally cable in door to release...


Same thing happened with mine. It turned out that the power door lock motor went out. Since the handle or the switch can unlock the driver's door, both of these mechanisms are connected. When the door lock motor goes out it freezes in whatever position, it was last engaged.

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The gas tank release will not work


The first thing to do is spray penetrating oil on the hinges and behind the fuel door. Then, check the cable connection at the release handle. Ifc it has become disconnected, reconnect. The handle may be damaged and may have to be replaced. Also, you may be able to open the fuel door by pulling the cable using a pair of pliers, or by slipping a thin blade of some kind behind it to push the release latch in. If you can get the door open, put as much oil as possible on the release mechanism plunger, and then work it into the mechanism by depressing the plunger repeatedly. If you are able to get the door open, the connection at the release handle is good, and the plunger seems to move freely, the release cable may have stretched, seized or broken, and may need to be replaced.

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1 Answer

Lift gate wont open with remote


I spend the next 10 minutes alternating between randomly hitting the FOB’s lock and unlock buttons, until I give up in a garage-filling string of expletives as I realize my kayak and I are SOL. Luckily, I did have a friend and an incredibly helpful REI employee there, whom all pitched in and managed to jam the kayak into the Suburban through the side door. I love my Suburban for reasons like this, though I’m slowly starting to hate GMC. More on this to come.
chevy-suburban-2005.jpg Here’s the Suburban with kayak inside and the lift gate panel on the floor. If you have a Suburban / Tahoe / Yukon in the same situation where your lift gate won’t open, the only way to get it open is to pry the lift gate panel just enough to access the locking mechanism. Take a long flat head screwdriver, slip it into the top section of the panel and start pulling away. The panel is made of a flexible plastic that will bend a fair amount, so don’t be afraid to put a bit of elbow into it. Once you see the locking mechanism, you’ll want to grip the back side that moves and twist counter-clockwise until the door pops open. Once you’ve done this, call GM customer service and tell them that their engineers should be fired for not having a manual release. If there is an accident / fire up front, wouldn’t you like it if your kids could escape out the back? Yeah, me too.
suburban-tailgate-panel.jpg If you’re lucky enough that you can open your door (or maybe it doesn’t lock to begin with), then it’s a little easier to pull off the panel. First, take a socket wrench (9mm, I think) and remove the bolt under the leather handle on the inside of the door (the one you pull down on when your lift gate is up). After that, insert a flat head into the space between the panel and the door and pry open. There will be around 4 or 5 contact points to disconnect.
remove-tailgate-panel.jpg The two last things that stand in your way are plastic hinges that hold the panel to the door frame. With the lift gate open, push the panel toward the car, then spin it an entire half-circle around the hinge in the picture. After that, the panel should pull right out. Now the locking mechanism should be nicely exposed.
suburban-tailgate-unlock.jpg Here we see the lift gate handle at the bottom, which is connected by a tension wire to the locking mechanism. Pulling on the handle causes the wire at the top to retract toward the right, turning the locking mechanism counter-clockwise.
tailgate-lock-explained.jpg However, pulling the handle does nothing when the mechanism is in the locked position, because it doesn’t engage the other tension wire / tailgate release - it just simply moves by itself. When the mechanism is unlocked, pulling on the handle will engage the release mechanism and pop open the door… when the locking mechanism is working, that is.
engaged-door-lock.jpg Here is a properly unlocked door: notice that the black plastic piece (on top of the copper) is slid all the way to the right. You can see that if you rotate the lower copper piece, that it will force the black plastic piece to turn, thus engaging the door release.
tailgate-wont-unlock.jpg Here is why your Suburban tailgate won’t unlock. I’ve just pressed the unlock button on my key FOB and you can see that the black plastic piece has NOT slid over to the right. This means that the door is still LOCKED as far as the mechanism is concerned. No amount of yanking on the handle will open the lift gate at this point.
locking-mechanism-stuck.jpg Zooming in for a close-up, you can really see where the problem is. Gear heads will realize this is a major problem for all sorts of reasons. First, if your door lock actuator is banging against this metal part every time you unlock your door, it will wear out the part extremely fast and you’ve got yourself a busted door. Second, even if you replace your actuator, you’ll just bust it again if it keeps ramming this part. Most importantly, the question is how this is happening to begin with? My Suburban was working fine until I put in a factory replacement handle.
My opinion is that the factory GM replacement was defective and not built to spec, because the tensioner was now pulling a few millimeters more than it should have, which resulted in my lift gate not closing or unlocking. While millimeters might not mean anything to some cheap factory in China or Mexico, it means a whole lot of difference to the Joe Schmoe who wants to have a car that works. It may also be due to a small and very important spring that resets the lock back into place.
suburban-door-lock-actuator.jpg I’ve read a whole ton of reports about Suburban lift gates, along with Tahoes, Yukons and other GM cars failing and drivers stuck with unlockable doors. I believe this type of careless “few millimeters off isn’t important” BS is likely to blame. That’s why some people may have locks that work only half the time, or some work after their actuators are replaced, but fail soon afterward. My two-cent opinion - back to fixing cars.
relieve-handle-tension.jpg So what we need to do, is make some space for that locking (technically, “unlock”) mechanism to engage fully. On my Suburban, this meant giving the metal tensioner just a little more slack - 2mm would be all I need.
removing-handle-wire.jpg First, I pushed the handle wire mechanism over to the right and then pulled out the metal ball and wire. After that, I pinched the blue wire cap and pushed it out of the metal holder.
unlocked-tailgate.jpg You can now see that there is a lot of visible space between the locking mechanism and the metal. Pressing lock and unlock on my key FOB easily moved the unit back and forth successfully, so I knew it wasn’t a problem with the actuator. Now comes the disclaimer part.
bend-lock-mechanism.jpg DISCLAIMER: Attempt this section at your own risk, you are responsible for your own actions!!! Not seeing a lot of options, I decided I would take a somewhat drastic approach and bend the wire holder closer to the locking mechanism with a pair of pliers. I only needed about 2mm, so I felt this was acceptable without busting the car too much. Needless to say, this is not a graceful fix nor one I really wanted to do, but there appeared to be little other options other than cutting your own tensioner line (adjusting the line would be the most logical method, but I pinching and pulling got me no results) or finding some concrete way of bracing the line closer to the locking mechanism. If you come up with an elegant solution, please let me know.
fixed-tailgate-lock.jpg Phew, finally - the fixed tailgate lock! You can see there is just enough room for the mechanism to engage and that the handle tension wire is snugly seated into its new home. I tested the lock about 100 times to be sure that everything was working as it should and I advise you do the same once you get to this point.
Now, simply put the panel back on the same way you took it off (don’t forget to screw the bolt back into the handle) and you’re done. Have a beer and go pat yourself on the back.
If this blog post has helped at all, I’d appreciate if you left a comment to share you experiences so others in the same situation can hear what you did. Thanks.

Oct 03, 2009 | 2007 GMC Yukon Denali

3 Answers

Doors won't close


Manually UNLOCK the door button or slide. HOLDING the OUTSIDE DOOR HANDLE in the OPEN position, with your other hands finger, LIFT OPEN the latch, and close your door. Hope this helps.

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1 Answer

2003 toyota sienna lift door knob broken. how to open the ldoor


The handle that broke had a little 'finger' that actuated the release mechanism. The only way to open the back hatch is to remove the inner panel and push on the release mechanism.

Once off, you can either a) buy a replacement handle (expensive) or b) do what I did and simply make a piece of L-shaped metal to lever the release mechanism from the outside.

If your handle is completely off of the door you can look up under the little plastic cover (that hides the handle) and see the slot on the right side that the release handle inserts into. You need to stick the lever into that slot, and angle it down about 30 degrees from horizontal to get under the latch mechanism, which unlocks the hatch if you pry it upwards.

Jan 09, 2009 | 2003 Toyota Sienna

1 Answer

99 Astro lift door latch left side inoperative


I slammed the door shut one time and the door wood not open at all. I had to take the inside door handle off and found that the cables simply came off of their post (inside the door) on the outside part of the door handle. More than likely only one cable has come off its post on your van. I hope this helps!

Dec 01, 2008 | 1999 Chevrolet Astro

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