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How do you wire up a 3 wire alternator,i have fed a live from ignition to small feed but nothing happens when engine is running

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Car will not turn off with keys off and removed


This can be caused by a few different things.The first item to check would be the alternator. There may be a feedback to the ignition switch from the voltage regulator field exciter wire. The other scenario that we commonly see is feedback from an aftermarket ignition system that utilizes an internal relay, or both a battery and ignition source to power the system. These are fairly common problems that people experience when using many aftermarket-wiring systems. Generally, an OEM harness will not have the problem of alternator "run-on", as there is usually a resistance wire in the dash harness to keep this from happening. Solution: To figure out where the problem exists, start the car and with the key in the ON position and the car running, turn off the key. With the ignition turned off and the car continuing to run, simply remove the plug from the alternator (DO NOT TRY AND REMOVE THE BATTERY POWER WIRE FROM THE POWER STUD!) and the car should shut off if the alternator is creating the problem. If it does not stop running, your feedback problem is coming from something other that the alternator. If you are using an aftermarket ignition unit, check to see if there is a fix available that includes a diode to put in line on the ignition feed to keep their system from back feeding into the ignition switch. If you do not have an aftermarket ignition system in your car and it continues to run after pulling the alternator plug, you'll want to call tech support from your harness manufacturer for help. If your car does shut off when you remove your alternator plug, you may have to put a diode in line on the field exciter wire to keep the alternator from back feeding to the ignition switch. Again check with the harness manufacturer for help.

Apr 12, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

No power from alternator to battery


Is the battery ignition light coming on when you turn the key on. Wiring for an alternator is quite simple, the 60amp cable (thick wire) is a direct feed to the battery. The thin wire (normally blue) connected to the 'ing' terminal gets a live feed via the battery ignition light. if the bulb has blown or this wire is not connected, the alternator will not charge. If you can, use a 12v 5watt test light connected to the battery, start the engine and touch the 'ing' terminal. this should prove and energies the alternator to start charging.

Jan 21, 2014 | 1985 BMW 3 Series

1 Answer

Mg metro alternator


Only needs two wires, run a 40 amp cable from the large terminal on the alternator marked +, direct to the positive terminal on the battery or to the battery supply feed to the starter (which ever is easier). Then run a wire from the terminal marked 'ind' to a 5watt bulb, other side of the bulb needs to be wired to an ignition live feed. That's makes it the charge indication light. You need to fit this light, without it the alternator will not charge!!!! Light will come on when you switch the ignition on, and go out when the engine is started. Put a volt meter across the battery, should get a reading of 13.5 to 14.5 volts with engine running. Good Luck.

Dec 31, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

2nd Accessory Power??? Push button Ignition


like your style but a simple dash mounted old fashioned ignition lock would do the trick then a padlock and chain .if no key chip is used on this vehicle that is ,if so then a hook to hold the key next to the original lock so the transponder can pick it up.All these relays and things are more to go wrong at a later date and not necessary ,Whatever you do make sure the steering lock mechanism is removed so it cannot lock the steering up when turning ,their is only three main cables to worry about power feed -feed to ignition and starter motor hence in the old films they join the wires up to steal a car bit more copmplicated on a modern car with a chipped key it just doesnt happen,a breakdonw pick up truck is used to lift a vehicle and nobody bats an eyelid ,then scrapyard for all the bits to make it run again .Now i know nothing about this but when the shunter driver has lost the key to customers car on the airport parking service -say no more

Feb 07, 2012 | Chevrolet Cavalier Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

1992 pontaic sunbird GT 3.1L V6 when I turn the ignition key to the position just before crank, everything seems normal for about 3 seconds, battery gauge shows full charge, gauges do their little...


SOUND LIKE DEAD BATTERY.HAVE BATTERY CHECKED AND REPLACED.MAKE SURE ALTERNATOR CHARGING BATTERY.WITH ENGINE IDLING BATTERY VOLTAGE OUTPUT AT BATTERY SHOULD BE 13.5 - 14.5 VOLTS. IF NOT CHECK ALTERNATOR BATTERY FEED WIRE AND VOLTAGE REGULATOR WIRES FOR DAMAGE OR LOOSE CONNECTIONS,CHECK ALTERNATOR FUSE AND MAKE SURE ALTERNATOR DRIVE BELT NOT LOOSE SLIPPING OR BROKEN.

Jun 26, 2011 | Pontiac Sunbird Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Bought a new rebuilt starter for a 1996 chevy cavalier... My problem is one of the wires is black and has nothing on it so i dont know where too hook it up... i have a red wire with a big eye and a black...


Most likely goes on ignition side (small eye). If you connect it to large eye it will have power all the time. Small post (eye) only gets power when key is in start or run position. 2 big eye wires are input from battery positive & alternator feed.

Jun 30, 2010 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

2000 astro van Battery and alternater are both new and checked out to be in working order. I am only getting 12 volts charging with the motor running should be 14 to 15 volts. In desperate need of ideas of...


You may have a voltage drop in the battery feed to the Alternator through the fuse link and into the battery. Check the charge rate at the battery feed on the Alternator, it should be at least 13.8 volts, if it is, locate the fuse link and check it there on both sides of the link, if its still good, follow the cable back to the battery checking the voltage as you go. If you find that the voltage suddenly drops across a connection or the fuse link, remove and clean the connection or replace it if possible. If the voltage at the back of the Alternator is less then 13 volts, then the new Alternator may be faulty. If the voltage is higher then 15 volts, then the Battery feed to the Alternator is bad and MUST be fixed. Check these voltages with the engine running but watch out for moving parts ( fans etc). If you think the battery feed to the Alternator is bad, shut the engine down and recheck the voltage at the Alternator, it should be at least the same as it is across the battery. If there is no power to the Alt when the engine is off, start at the fuse link, checking for voltage and trace back to the alt until you lose the reading. If you get no voltage at the fuse link, track it back to the battery. The voltages at the battery and Alternator should be the same or only have a difference of half a volt, any more and you need to locate and fix the bad connection. DO NOT run the Alternator without the load of the battery for extended periods as this will damage the Alternator. The Alt needs the internal resistance of the battery to function correctly. If the voltages from the battery to the alt are correct, check the regulator wiring. If memory serves, there are two small wires to the alt which are in a small plug into the alt and one thick cable which connects to a bolt on the alt. The thick cable is the battery feed, the two small cables are the regulator feeds. One small cable operates the warning lamp in the dash cluster and the other is another battery feed which gives the regulator an indication of the charge rate AT THE BATTERY so if this one is missing the regulator will also cut out. The warning lamp wire serves as an indication to the regulator that the ignition is turned on and makes the alternator charge. This lamp should be on with ignition on but engine NOT running and should go out when you start the engine. If this lamp does not light up at all, suspect a broken or missing warning lamp connection or faulty regulator.A blown warning lamp bulb will also prevent the alt from working, this is because the bulb is fed with power and is grounded at the alt through the regulator and exciter diodes, feeding the regulator with power until the engine starts, then the alternator output essentially puts power to both sides of the diodes causing the lamp to extinguish. A diode is a one way valve for electricity and the regulator is inside the alt. If you suspect a faulty alt or regulator, remove them and have them checked by an autoelectrician. Unless you know what you are doing, DO NOT attempt to disassemble the alt as you can cause catastrophic damage and have to purchase a replacement alt. You may also void any warranty by disassembling the alt.. Undertake these tests and if you have any questions, email me here: swoop@live.com.au
Dave.

Dec 15, 2009 | 1997 Chevrolet Astro

1 Answer

1992 eurovan won't start, all electrical works but starter will not engage. battery seems fine. there is a slight clicking in the dash that starts when you turn the key and stops after about 15 seconds,...


check your fuses first for a blown fuse.
check the very thick cable that runs from the battery positive to the starter motor to make sure it isnt heavily corroded either at the batter or starter end. corrosion will have to be quite bad and therefore obvious if sufficient to cause a problem. also check the fixings are tight on either end. perform the same checks for the thick cbale from the negative battery terminal . this will either run directly to the engine/gearbox housing or to to the chassis/vehicle from which it will connect to the engine via another cable. all of this needs to be tight and corrosion free.
if so, then you will find a much thinner cable that runs to the starter motor solenoid (which is part of the starter motor assembly). this small cable will be very close to the thick one. check that this cable has a live feed while an assistant tries to engage the starter motor with the key. you will need a test lamp or voltmeter to do this.
if there is a live feed from this thin cable, and you are definately happy that the battery and the heavy cables are good, then the fault has too lie with the starter motor.
if there is not live feed at the small wire then this will be down to either a faulty ignition switch, a blown fuse, if fitted, a relay or a wiring fault.
does the clicking noise you hear ONLY occour while the key is turned to engage the starter motor? if so this could be the problem, otherwise I would think it is irrelevant to the problem.
You can test the ignition switch by removing the cowling around the ignition barrel. There is usualy 4 wires. one will be a pernament live feed into the switch. one will become live when the key is turned to the first stage ( for things like the radio). the next will only become live with the ignition on. The most important one here will be the one that becomes live while engaging the starter. if there is no live going out, but there is a live into the switch then it will obviously be the switch thats faulty.
failing that, it comes down to tracing the point where the live feed breaks down.
I'm not sure if there is a relay in this circuit, I would not have thought so, may worth trying to find out, perhaps by trying to get hold of a wiring diagram (manufacturers website?).

Nov 10, 2009 | Volkswagen Eurovan Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

1996 nissan 200sx with a new battery and starter but when key is turned there is nothing no click no rotation what so ever the clutch is depressed lights come on with full intensity but the car wont turn...


check the wires on the starter motor,there's a small one that sometimes gets dirty and loses contact or may even be off altogether,this supplies the feed to starter to tell it to turn over, or try running a live wire from the battery straight to this small terminal on starter motor body..CAUTION, make sure you are in neutral gear with handbrake applied, turn ignition on so lights on dash are lit up, then a quick touch of this "live" wire should make engine turn over or start,if so the problem is the small wire has no live feed or needs cleaning.
hope this helps.

Jun 16, 2009 | 1996 Nissan 200SX

1 Answer

Vanett charging problem


red & white feed to alternator,fed from top terminal of capless bulb in charging light, had a break in it. This is in the plastic tube that goes across the front of the engine in a r/h/d/ vehicle.

Sep 09, 2008 | Nissan Titan Cars & Trucks

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