Question about 1989 Honda Accord 4 Door

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Im changing the clutch in '89 honda accord and I can't seem to find all of the bolts holding the transaxle to the motor. (It's a mess in there so on the top of motor and side nearest firewall, I'm working blind). How many should there be?

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Engage transaxle wont go all the way i to revvers sometime it does


revvers?
M/T car? wont go in to Reverse?
the adjust the clutch. if cable, , if no cable (im lazy to look it up)
make sure the hydraulic actuator moves 3/4" if not the MC/Slave
clutch cylinders are bad.
and for sure the shift lever parts (end can be bad)
only a trained mech, can FEEL that, and tell you,
I can not , im in the internet cloud.

Oct 05, 2013 | 1992 Honda Accord

1 Answer

1996 Honda Accord EX Manual trans. Where is oil level plug. what kind of oil?


Hi there,

All Honda manual transaxles use the Honda Manual Transmission Fluid (MTF) as the original factory fill. This oil is similar to a 10W-30 or 10W-40 viscosity engine oil, and this oil can be substituted temporarily. However, the manufacturer recommends the use of their MTF when changing the fluid.

Level Check

The transaxle fluid should be changed every 90,000 miles (144,000 km) or 6 years under normal driving conditions. In severe driving conditions the fluid should be changed every 30,000 miles (48,000 km) or every 2 years, whichever occurs first.
Make sure the vehicle is on a level surface. If the vehicle is raised, make sure the vehicle is safely supported and level

NOTE: Do not confuse the drain plug with the fill plug.
The fill plug is in the mid section of the transaxle. The drain plug is near the bottom of the transaxle.
  1. The oil level is checked by removing the oil fill plug on the side of the transaxle. The transaxle fluid should just meet the lower threads of the transaxle fill hole.
  2. Remove the oil level check bolt from the side of the transaxle. If oil runs out, or if oil can be felt near the threaded fill hole opening, reinstall and retighten the bolt to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm).
  3. If the level needs to be topped off, pour oil in slowly until it begins to run out then, install and tighten the filler bolt to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm).

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Sep 05, 2011 | 1996 Honda Accord

1 Answer

If somebody changed oil on a 1997 Honda accord coupe is there a possiblity they can damage the oil pan gasket?


Not likely. The oil is drained from the oil drain plug in the bottom of the oil pan. To damage the oil pan gasket, someone would just about have to remove the oil pan, a big job! There are probably 16 to 24 bolts or more holding the pan into place. During a routine oil change, there is no reason to mess with the bolts, with the possible exception of trying to reduce leakage by giving the bolts a little snug up.

Jun 07, 2011 | 1997 Honda Accord

1 Answer

I am trying to seperate the engine from the transaxle VTEC/Automatic. I am sure that the case to case bolts are all removed, as are the torque converter bolts. I have also removed the rear motor mount. Is...


have another look their is something somewhere holding it and iam know you have missed something ,what about the metal plate at the bottom that keeps the muck out ?'

May 25, 2011 | 1994 Honda Accord

2 Answers

Where can I find the hydrolic clucth resivoir and why would it be empty. Daughters car she is in Illinois and me Florida. Not much help from here but can let her know where to look for sure?


There should be a small cup size reservoir on the fender strut tower. Looks like thing in upper right corner of below picture. What usually happens to hydraulic clutches when they draw air, it the slave cylinder on the side of the transmission leaks and must be replaced. The system can then be bled of air and proper clutch operation restored. It would be difficult to restore clutch operation just by refilling the reservoir, especially with such a small reservoir. If it is necessary to get the car moving to get it repaired (slave cylinder replacement is a big job on this car, as the transmission must be removed), one could bleed the system with the bad slave cylinder and then drive a short distance. The clutch will likely fail again after about 100 or so cycles of the pedal. I will paste the bleed instructions below. These require someone to get under the car to open the slave bleeder. If you have more questions, please let me know.

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Bleeding The Hydraulic System

Note: brake fluid is corrosive--please wipe any spilled fluid from painted or metal surfaces.
Manual Bleeding

  1. Fill the clutch reservoir with brake fluid. Check the reservoir level frequently and add fluid as needed.
  2. Connect one end of a vinyl tube to the bleeder plug on the slave cylinder and submerge the other end into a clear container half-filled with clean brake fluid.
  3. Slowly pump the clutch pedal 10-15 times without bring the pedal the full way up.
  4. Repeat Steps 2 and 3 until all of the air bubbles are removed from the system.
  5. Tighten the bleeder screw to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm).
  6. Refill the master cylinder to the proper level.

Replacing the clutch slave cylinder:


Removal & Installation Before servicing any vehicle, please be sure to read the precautions section, which deals with personal safety, prevention of component damage, and important points to take into consideration when servicing a motor vehicle.

  1. Disconnect the clutch master cylinder line from the transaxle by removing the C-clip.
  2. Remove the transaxle.
  3. Remove the clutch actuator cylinder bolts from the transaxle.
  4. Remove the clutch actuator cylinder.

To install:


NOTE Excessive amounts of lubricant on the input shaft splines can contaminate the clutch disc and cause clutch shudder.

  1. Lightly lubricate the inside diameter of the bearing with input shaft lubricant P/N 21005995 or equivalent.
  2. Install the clutch actuator cylinder (1) to the transaxle.
  3. Install the clutch actuator cylinder bolts.
  4. Tighten the bolts to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
  5. Install the transaxle.
  6. Connect the clutch master cylinder line to the transaxle by pushing it in until it seats.
  7. Bleed the clutch hydraulic system.

Before servicing any vehicle, please be sure to read the precautions section, which deals with personal safety, prevention of component damage, and important points to take into consideration when servicing a motor vehicle.
  1. Disconnect the clutch master cylinder line from the transaxle by removing the C-clip.
  2. Remove the transaxle.
  3. Remove the clutch actuator cylinder bolts from the transaxle.
  4. Remove the clutch actuator cylinder.

To install:


NOTE Excessive amounts of lubricant on the input shaft splines can contaminate the clutch disc and cause clutch shudder.

  1. Lightly lubricate the inside diameter of the bearing with input shaft lubricant P/N 21005995 or equivalent.
  2. Install the clutch actuator cylinder (1) to the transaxle.
  3. Install the clutch actuator cylinder bolts.
  4. Tighten the bolts to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
  5. Install the transaxle.
  6. Connect the clutch master cylinder line to the transaxle by pushing it in until it seats.
  7. Bleed the clutch hydraulic system.

Oct 30, 2010 | 2003 Saturn VUE

1 Answer

Clutch is going out need diagram to print out on how to replace it


Here are removal procedures. Can I send reinstall on another ticket? I don't think they will fit in one solution... Tranny REMOVAL

1.8L and 1.9L Engines See Figures 1, 2
  1. Disconnect both battery cables, negative cable first.
  2. Remove the battery and battery tray.
  3. Remove the engine air cleaner tube and the air intake resonator.
  4. Disconnect the speedometer cable at the transaxle.
  5. Remove the slave cylinder line-to- slave cylinder hose retaining clip, then disconnect the slave cylinder line from the slave cylinder hose and plug the hose.
  6. Disconnect the ground strap from the transaxle.
  7. Remove the tie wrap and unplug the three electrical connectors located above the transaxle.
  8. Remove the electrical connector support bracket.
  9. Install Engine Support Bar 014-00750 or equivalent, and attach it to the engine lifting eyes with suitable chains or cables.

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Fig. 1: Install a suitable engine support bar and attach it to the engine lifting eyes-1.8L and 1.9L engines

  1. If equipped, remove the three nuts from the left-hand engine support bracket.
  2. Loosen the mount pivot nut and rotate the mount out of the way.
  3. Remove the three bolts and the left-hand engine support mount.
  4. Remove the two upper transaxle-to-engine bolts.
  5. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  6. Remove the front wheel and tire assemblies.
  7. Remove the inner fender splash shields.
  8. Drain the transaxle fluid and install the drain plug.
  9. Remove the halfshafts.
  10. Install Transaxle Plugs T88C-7025-AH or equivalent, between the differential side gears.
WARNING Failure to install the transaxle plugs may cause the differential side gears to become improperly positioned. If the gears become misaligned, the differential will have to be removed from the transaxle to align them.
  1. If equipped with the 1.8L engine, remove the intake manifold support bolts and the support.
  2. Remove the starter motor.
  3. Unfasten the gearshift stabilizer bar nut and washers. Remove the stabilizer bar and bracket from the transaxle.
  4. Unfasten the shift control rod-to-transaxle bolt and nut and remove the shift control rod from the transaxle.
  5. Remove both lower splash shields.
  6. Unfasten the transaxle mount-to-crossmember bolts and nuts and remove the lower crossmember (rear engine support).
  7. Position and secure a suitable transaxle jack under the transaxle.
  8. Remove the front transaxle mount and bracket.
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Fig. 2: Removing the front transaxle mount and bracket-1.8L and 1.9L engines

  1. Remove the lower engine-to-transaxle bolts and slowly lower the transaxle out of the vehicle.

CLUTCH REMOVAL
  1. If the clutch assembly is to be reused, matchmark the pressure plate and the flywheel so they can be assembled in the same position.
  2. Install flywheel holding tool T84P-6375-A or equivalent, in a transaxle mounting hole on the engine and engage the tooth of the holding tool into the flywheel ring gear.

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Fig. 1: Install a flywheel holding tool in a transaxle mounting hole on the engine, and engage the tooth of the tool into the flywheel ring gear

  1. Loosen the pressure plate-to-flywheel retaining bolts one turn at a time, in a crisscross pattern, until the spring tension is relieved, to prevent pressure plate cover distortion.
  2. Support the pressure plate and unfasten the retaining bolts. Remove the pressure plate and clutch disc from the flywheel.

If the flywheel shows any signs of overheating (blue discoloration) or if it is badly grooved or scored, it should be refaced or replaced.
  1. Inspect the flywheel, clutch disc, pressure plate, release bearing, pilot bearing and the clutch fork for wear. Replace parts as needed.

Sep 27, 2010 | 1991 Mercury Tracer

1 Answer

I am trying to replace the clutch in a 1996 cavalier, I have both axles off, the transaxle bolts out, the motor mount off, the pressure off the motor, I have about a 1 inch gap in the transaxle housing ,...


Remove the speedometer cable and any wiring that is attached to the transaxle.

Reattach the clutch cable and use the pedal to leverage against the clutch pressure plate, which will move the transaxle away from the engine a few inches. From there, you should be able to remove it by hand.

Don't allow the transaxle's input shaft to hang on the new clutch, it will bend it and cause serious problems.

Aug 10, 2010 | 1996 Chevrolet Cavalier

1 Answer

Correct Transaxle Fluid Oil Change


use what they recommend. you probably want 20-40 non detergent.

May 08, 2010 | 1992 Honda Accord

1 Answer

I have a 97 honda accord car wont go into 2nd gear and wont go over 10mph any help please


two quick questions, did you recently have your transmission or clutch repaired? and have you checked the fluid level in the transaxle? common issues like this could be a faulty transaxle, clutch disc, release lever and bearing, not assembled correctly, faulty pressure plate, or lock pin missing. I hope the fluid level is the issue, good luck!

Sep 07, 2009 | 1998 Honda Accord

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