Question about 2002 Saab 9-5

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Hi! I'm replacing turbocharger on my saab 95 2001 3.0 and it is a problem to unscrew left stud connectng turbo to manifold, becouse of dipstick tube. The Saab workshop dasn't tell anything clear. Please, help. Peter

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  • finnik1960 Sep 07, 2009

    Hi!

    One bracket for oil dipstick tube have a easy location (upper), bat where is the second? It's easy for 4 cyl, this car is a 6 cyl. If I'll have access to the nut it's will be no problem...

    Peter

  • finnik1960 Sep 07, 2009

    Thank's.

    I'll going to remove oil pan.

    Peter

  • finnik1960 Sep 07, 2009

    The solutions is helpful.
    Thank's

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Well the dipstick tube is easy the remove try not to break it off Undo the bolts on the different brackets that hold it on an pull ti straight out. The bolts on the turbo itself may need to be heated and blastered and knocked with a hammer to get em to turn. Cracking the wrench with a hammer to pop em loose with em good and hot ( glowing ) Good wreanches too Cheap wreances don't do this job well and they need to fit tightly even hammered on is best to win.

Posted on Sep 07, 2009

  • John P Schwantes Jr Sep 07, 2009

    May only hacve the one bolt and the tube may be hard to get out. Will it bend enought to get the wrench in hold it at about under the bracket and hammer up on your vise grips may put a hose arond the tube so the vise grips don't make a whole. Of course with the oil pan off you can just hammer it out from the bottom.

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Repair manual for a saab 95 1999 2.3t. need to replace the turbocharger.


It is fairly difficult to remove especially if there's a lot of rust. Bolts tend to break instead of coming loose. The 2.3t turbos are known for failure, they are the smaller of the two turbos. The Saab's with the larger turbos are labeled 2.3T -notice the capitol letter T instead of t. They are interchangeable and I highly recommend installing the larger if you want the repair to last. Get you practice removing the one at the junk yard before you work on your own. Oil lines and coolant lines will require some slight re bending/shaping to fit in place of the smaller turbo but it will be well worth it. Instructions could be handy but not necessary for most mechanics. Online Saab forums would have detailed instructions.
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In your case the turbocharger is responsible for engine losing power.
The car goes in "limp home" mode!!!
After scan the EDC-15P engine control unit with a VAG or KTS -BOSCH diagnosis tool you will find this: Fault code: P1557-Turbo Boost pressure control exceeded
1. Engine stopped and ignition switch off. Check all pneumatic connections and hoses between turbocharger actuator = pressure unit for boost-pressure control, boost-pressure control solenoid valve, vacuum reservoir, EGR control solenoid valve, intake-manifold flap solenoid valve, EGR valve with throttle - part of intake manifold. Also the vacuum connection between tandem pump and brake booster. If you find something wrong replace parts. If not go to step 2.
2. Extract the hose of the turbocharger actuator = pressure unit for boost-pressure control part of turbocharger. Instead of the original hose you must place another 1 meter long hose with the same inside diameter, and then you check to inspire yourself the air from the other one extremity of this hose. The mechanical connecting rod of the turbocharger actuator must have a smooth and whole motion. If you can do that with your mouth, then you must replace the boost-pressure control solenoid valve. If you can not reach this with your mouth, then you go to step 3.
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In your case the turbocharger is responsible for engine losing power.
The car goes in "limp home" mode!!!
After scan the EDC-15P engine control unit with a VAG or KTS -BOSCH diagnosis tool you will find this: Fault code: P1557-Turbo Boost pressure control exceeded
1. Engine stopped and ignition switch off. Check all pneumatic connections and hoses between turbocharger actuator = pressure unit for boost-pressure control, boost-pressure control solenoid valve, vacuum reservoir, EGR control solenoid valve, intake-manifold flap solenoid valve, EGR valve with throttle - part of intake manifold. Also the vacuum connection between tandem pump and brake booster. If you find something wrong replace parts. If not go to step 2.
2. Extract the hose of the turbocharger actuator = pressure unit for boost-pressure control part of turbocharger. Instead of the original hose you must place another 1 meter long hose with the same inside diameter, and then you check to inspire yourself the air from the other one extremity of this hose. The mechanical connecting rod of the turbocharger actuator must have a smooth and whole motion. If you can do that with your mouth, then you must replace the boost-pressure control solenoid valve. If you can not reach this with your mouth, then you go to step 3.
3. This is the most difficult work. The problem is that the soot particles deposits inside the turbocharger plugging the variable nozzle geometry mechanism = adjustable vanes of the turbine. If the turbocharger actuator is not able to adjust the turbine vanes the charge air pressure increase too much and ECU (engine control unit) go in "limp mode" = engine protection software. As a result the "limp home" mode engine still running until you turn the engine off (ignition switch off) and back on when the "limp mode" is deactivated, but the fault still remain in ECU memory!
4. You must be able to extract the turbo from the engine and then to disassemble the turbocharger, clean inside adjustable vanes mechanism and refit all.

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1 Answer

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Turbocharger under boost problem:
The car goes in "limp mode"!!!
After scan the EDC-15P engine control unit with a VAG or KTS -BOSCH diagnosis tool you will find this DTC - Fault code: P1557-Turbo Boost pressure control exceeded
1. Engine stopped and ignition switch off. Check all pneumatic connections and hoses between turbocharger actuator = pressure unit for boost-pressure control, boost-pressure control solenoid valve, vacuum reservoir, EGR control solenoid valve, intake-manifold flap solenoid valve, EGR valve with throttle - part of intake manifold. Also the vacuum connection between tandem pump and brake booster. If you find something wrong replace parts. If not go to step 2.
2. Extract the hose of the turbocharger actuator = pressure unit for boost-pressure control part of turbocharger. Instead of the original hose you must place another 1 meter long hose with the same inside diameter, and then you check to inspire yourself the air from the other one extremity of this hose. The mechanical connecting rod of the turbocharger actuator must have a smooth and whole motion. If you can do that with your mouth, then you must replace the boost-pressure control solenoid valve. If you can not reach this with your mouth, then you go to step 3.
3. This is the most difficult work. The problem is that the soot particles deposits inside the turbocharger plugging the variable nozzle geometry mechanism = adjustable vanes of the turbine. If the turbocharger actuator is not able to adjust the turbine vanes the charge air pressure increase too much and ECU (engine control unit) go in "limp mode" = engine protection software. As a result the "limp mode" engine still running until you turn the engine off (ignition switch off) and back on when the "limp mode" is deactivated, but the fault still remain in ECU memory!
4. You must be able to extract the turbo from the engine and then to disassemble the turbocharger, clean inside adjustable vanes mechanism and refit all.

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I hope this helped.

Thank you,
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