Question about 2002 Mercury Mountaineer

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Rear right cam shaft tensioner installation 2002 mercury mountaineer 4.0 2wd non flex fuel how to install

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This is not easy. I would suggest removing the engine. It is much easier to do when the engine is on an engine stand.

Posted on Sep 07, 2009

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Timing belt setting


line up the marks on crank shaft gear arrow to arrow, the front cam gear the mark goes to the middle on the rear cam gear the mark goes one notch below front gear mark they line up when the tension is put on belt.

Aug 17, 2014 | 2005 Chrysler PT Cruiser

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I am needing to put on an entire back hatch with window back on 2002 Mercury Mountaineer. I was hit in the rear and it broke my rear window and dented and banged up the entire back end. I have bought the...


Does the hatch open up electrically??? If not, then just take off the hinge bolts and struts, hold the new door in place, re install the bolts ( without tightening them completely) and then shut the door and see where it has to be adjusted correctly to close easily. Then you can tighten the bolts tightly and re install the struts. You will need at least 3 people to help.

Mar 10, 2011 | 2002 Mercury Mountaineer

1 Answer

Is the front engine seal related to the time chain tensioner seal got a link behide the timeing belt


Don't quiet understand your question...but here's some insight.

The chain is under the valve cover/s ( 1.8t and some 2.8 V6.) and drives 2 or 4 cam shafts.

If it is the VR6 engine then the chain is in the front of the engine.

1.8t has seals on at cam sensor at rear of head and seals at front for crank and cam. To install it needs belt removed for front seals. 2.0 gas engine same except no rear cam seals.

All oil seals are now Teflon and a new instal procedure must be followed. Briefly : Installed dry...allowed to sit 4 hours before engine started.

Post again if this does not answer your question. We need year and model to give you a definitive answer.

Jan 12, 2011 | 2002 Volkswagen Passat

1 Answer

Setting of timing chains


Get Ford timing tool kit, part = otc-6488 (For about $119 USD on eBay)

4 timing chains (3 front including the optional balance shaft chain + 1 back)

2 cam guides (1 front + 1 back)

2 oil tensioners (1 front + 1 back)

1 jackshaft tensioner (1 front)

1 jackshaft guide/cassette (1 front)

1 balance shaft tensioner (1 front) (will probably be ok, so dont replace it)

1 balance shaft guide (1 front) (will probably be ok, so dont replace it)

new sprockets + bolts + gaskets etc.

new spark plugs + throttle body cleaner + lithium grease spray + oil change

head gaskets


some of these parts (the front stuff) can be obtained as a primary timing chain rattle noise kit Part# = 2u3e-6d256-** ab for 4*4 & bb for 2*4.

The kits also have later part numbers for us$ 76 @ http://www.fordpartsonline.com


My parts order (without the balance shaft stuff) was:

$76.04 KIT-TENSIONER TIMING 2u3e-6d256-ab

$47.93 Engine, Camshaft and timing, Timing chain, TIMING CHAIN, Explorer, Mountaineer, Rear - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC

$57.36 Engine, Camshaft and timing, Chain guide, CHAIN GUIDE, Explorer, Mountaineer, Jackshaft To Cam - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC

$103.22 Engine, Overhaul gasket set, OVERHAUL GASKET SET, Explorer, Mountaineer, Upper (Valve Grind) - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC

$28.93 Engine, Camshaft and timing, Tensioner, TENSIONER, Explorer, Mountaineer, Upper - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC

Its worth mentioning that this procedure is not enjoyable at all and should be undertaken with at least 8 full days to completion (I recon you could do it in half the time the second time).

It is basically on entire engine re-build with both heads off and the engine out of the vehicle.

It is not possible to do the rear chain or sprocket with the engine in the car as the flywheel needs to come off + at least 1 head, but it is possible to do the front primary chain and or front cam chain with the engine in the car.

You will be a ford exploder and timing expert after you do this - the main reason should be the love of your American built vehicle. Its a solid car - except for the plastic guides!

Disclaimer Note: This is how i successfully did the job, but i am not a ford mechanic and don't hold me responsible if this does not work for you.
Timing Overview

A Small Sprocket on the crank turns a larger (2 to 1 ratio) jackshaft sprocket that is in turn connected front & back to the 2 camshafts.

Thus a 360o turn of the crank will turn both the camshafts 180o.

Firing order is 1-4 2-5 3-6, Right side numbers 1,2,3. Left Side = 4,5,6.

At TDC pistons 1 & 5 are fully raised, thus 1 is about to spark & 5 is evacuated.

The engine will turn freely (no piston to valve contact) with the cams 180o out, it will even run (roughly) with 1 out 180o, any other settings may cause major damage to the valves.

The 2 cam shafts come with timing markings, "yes" real timing marks that anyone can use (even without special tools) to ensure correct timing.

The way to time it is to ensure both the off centre cam shaft slits are level/flat with the head.

With the engine at TDC both the cams need to have the off centre slot in the same position either up and level or down and level.

It is super critical that both the camshafts are 100% in sink with each other, i.e. not a few degrees off, the engine computer can compensate for crank timing but not engineering failure.

Be warned the camshafts can turn easily fast & hard by themselves as a few springs are compressed at TDC, I got my finger jammed and its still healing + if the engine is not at TDC you may damage a valve.

Now heres the hard thing that you will need special tools for - if you need to change the timing, you will need to be able to undo the cam sprocket bolt on both cams & these are done up real tight.

There is a tool that you attach that has 2 pencil thick shafts that fit into the sprocket and prevent it from turning - then you need to put about 90Nm of force on the bolt (remember the rear one if LHT)

For the $money$, its well worth getting yourself the tool kit - it will save you hours in the long run. Search eBay for otc-6488 should be US $119 - then sell them again for say $100.

There is also a tool version of the oil tensioner in the kit that screws right in and puts the correct amount of force on the chain + guide, to enable you to do up the cam bolt with the chain and sprocket in the right spot on the cam.


Dec 20, 2010 | 2003 Ford Explorer

1 Answer

My balance shaft belt broke while I was driving. It stripped some of the teeth off the timing belt and Im pretty sure it jumped time. I need a diagram to show the timing marks and how to get it back in...


see diagrams from autozone.com. Cam sprocket has an "UP" label, but also 2 scribes on the sides to align to upper head surface. The critical part of the job is keeping tension on the side of the belt that is opposite from the tensioner as the tensioner is released onto the belt. The timing marks must be aligned when the job is done.

2bd7a51.jpg
4256a1c.gif To install:

  1. Install the camshaft timing sprocket so that the UP mark is up and the TDC marks are parallel to the cylinder head gasket surface. Install the key and tighten the bolt to 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm).
  2. Install the crankshaft sprocket so that the TDC mark aligns with the pointer on the oil pump. Install the spacers with their concave surfaces facing in. Install the key. If equipped, install the TDC sensor assembly back into position before installing the timing belt.
  3. Install and tension the timing belt. Use a 6 x 1.0 mm x 25 mm bolt threaded through the cam belt tensioner plate to temporarily hold the tensioner.
  4. Temporarily install the crankshaft pulley and rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise 5-6 turns to be sure the belt is properly seated.
  5. Set the No. 1 piston at TDC for its compression stroke.



WARNING If any binding is felt when adjusting the timing belt tension by turning the crankshaft, STOP turning the engine, because the pistons may be hitting the valves.

  1. Rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise so that the camshaft pulley moves only 3 teeth beyond its TDC mark.
  2. Loosen, then retighten the temporary cam belt tensioner bolt.
  3. If the rear balance shaft sprocket/gear case assembly was removed, perform the following:
    1. If the rear balance shaft was moved, rotate the balance shaft until the 6 x 1.0mm x 100 mm bolt can be installed into the maintenance hole to the scribed line.
    2. Align the notch of the balance shaft sprocket edge with the pointer on the gear case. Install the rear balance shaft sprocket/gear case assembly using a new O-ring coated with fresh engine oil. The balance shaft sprocket should be installed in the TDC position. The pointer on the gear should align with the pointer on the oil pump housing plate.
    3. Tighten the mounting bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).

  4. If the front balance shaft sprocket was removed, perform the following:
    1. Install a suitable and sturdy screw driver or drift through the maintenance hole in the shaft behind the sprocket to hold the front balance shaft.
    2. Install the front balance shaft sprocket and mounting nut. Torque the nut to 22 ft. lbs. (29 Nm).

  5. Make sure the balance shafts and crankshaft are in the TDC position.
  6. Remove the crankshaft pulley, and if removed, install the balance shaft belt drive sprocket.
  7. Install the balance shaft belt, making sure the balance shafts and sprockets are still in the TDC position.
  8. If removed, install the balance shaft belt tensioner and tension the balance shaft belt.
  9. Loosen, then retighten the tensioner adjusting nut to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm).
  10. Remove the 6 x 1.0mm x 100mm rear balance shaft holding bolt.
  11. Temporarily install the crankshaft pulley and rotate the crankshaft 2 revolutions counterclockwise, stopping at TDC.



WARNING If any resistance is felt, stop immediately and determine the cause.

  1. Recheck that all of the TDC marks align for both the camshaft and balance shafts.
  2. Loosen, then retighten the tensioner adjusting nut to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm).
  3. Remove the 6 x 1.0 mm x 25 mm bolt used to secure the camshaft timing belt tensioner.
  4. Remove the crankshaft pulley and install the lower cover.
  5. Install the crankshaft pulley, lubricate the bolt threads and both sides of the crankshaft pulley bolt with fresh engine oil and tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt to 181 ft. lbs. (245 Nm). Do Not use an impact wrench.
See Figures 19 and 20


087aa27.gif

              Fig. Fig. 19: Holding the rear timing balancer shaft-4-cylinder Odyssey



            811a2fe.gif

            Fig. Fig. 20: Aligning the front timing balancer shaft-4-cylinder Odyssey

            1. Install the upper timing cover and the valve cover. Be sure the seals are properly seated.
            2. Install the side engine mount. Tighten the through-bolt to 47 ft. lbs. (64 Nm). Tighten the mount nut and bolt to 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm) each.
            3. Remove the floor jack.
            4. Install and tension the alternator belt.
            5. Install the power steering pump and tension its belt.
            6. Install the splash shields.
            7. Reconnect the positive and negative battery cables. Enter the radio security code.
            8. Check engine operation.

            Sep 20, 2010 | Honda Odyssey Cars & Trucks

            1 Answer

            Pics on 1996 lumina 3.4 twin cam timming belt drive


            This pic does not show all timing marks, but I will paste procedure from autozone.com below.


            71bccea.gif 1996 3.4L Engines


            To install:
            1. Install the camshaft sprockets finger-tight.
            2. Route the timing belt in a counterclockwise direction around the sprockets. Make sure all of the timing belt teeth are fully engaged with all sprockets.
            3. Install the timing belt tensioner actuator pulley. Tighten the retaining bolt/screw to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm).
            4. If tensioner oil has been lost, fill the tensioner with synthetic engine oil through the end hole. Fill to the bottom of the plug hole ONLY when the tensioner is fully retracted and the pin is installed.
            5. Install the rubber end plug to the rear of the tensioner actuator. Push until flush and snapped into place. Make sure the end plug has sealed against the case.
            6. Install the tensioner actuator bushing into the side plate.
            7. Install the tensioner actuator and side plate. Make sure the tapered fulcrum of the tensioner actuator is properly seated in the tensioner actuator bracket bushing. Tighten the retaining bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).

            Rotate the pulley into the belt a maximum of 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm) to allow engagement of the actuator shaft into the pulley arm socket.
            1. Pull the lockpin and discard. Retighten the pulley to 15 Nm counterclockwise to seat the pulley into the belt.
            2. Install both right hand (rear bank) camshaft sprockets. Tighten the bolts to 96 ft. lbs. (130 Nm).
            3. Remove tool J 38613-A from the right hand (rear bank) camshaft carrier.
            4. Rotate the crankshaft 360ºclockwise while looking at the front of the engine and align the crankshaft reference marks.
            5. Make sure both right hand camshaft flats are down, then tighten both left hand (front bank) camshaft sprockets to 96 ft. lbs. (130 Nm).
            6. Remove tool J 38613-A from the left hand (front bank) camshaft carrier.
            7. Rotate the crankshaft 720ºclockwise while looking at the front of the engine to seat the timing belt and verify correct timing. Make sure both camshaft flat spots are up on one band and down on the opposing bank.
            8. Install the camshaft carrier covers.
            9. Connect the breather hose to the rear camshaft cover and crankcase vent to the breather manifold.
            10. Install the camshaft timing belt covers, as outlined earlier in this information.
            11. Install the fuel line bracket and bolt.
            12. Install the wiring harness cover at the right strut tower.
            13. Connect the spark plug wires, as tagged during removal.
            14. Attach the PCM electrical connectors.
            15. Connect the power steering lines to the pump.
            16. Install the serpentine drive belt and tensioner.
            17. Install the coolant recovery tank.
            18. Install the upper intake manifold, using a new gasket. Tighten the retaining bolts to 19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm).
            19. Fasten the nuts at the upper intake manifold support bracket. Tighten the nuts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
            20. Connect the power brake vacuum hose.
            21. Install the wiring loom bracket for the rear spark plug wires.
            22. Connect the vacuum lines to the upper intake manifold tee.
            23. Attach the electrical connectors to the canister purge solenoid and MAP sensor.
            24. Install the EGR valve, secure with the retaining bolts, then attach the connector.
            25. Connect the PCV valve and vacuum line to the throttle body.
            26. Install the heater hose and bracket to the lower intake manifold.
            27. Install the fuel line bracket and bolt. Uncap and connect the fuel pipes to the fuel rail.
            28. Install the fuel injector sight shield.
            29. Connect the control cables to the throttle body.
            30. Install the air cleaner assembly. Refill the cooling system and refill and bleed the power steering system. Connect the negative battery cable.

            Aug 30, 2010 | Chevrolet Lumina Cars & Trucks

            2 Answers

            Timming bailt marks for 1990 plym laser rs


            REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1.8L Engine
            1. If possible, position the engine so the No. 1 piston is at TDC.
            2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
            3. Remove the timing belt covers.
            4. Remove the timing (outer) belt tensioner and remove the outer timing belt.
            5. Remove the outer crankshaft sprocket and flange.
            6. Remove the silent shaft (inner) belt tensioner and remove the belt. Fig. 1: Silent shaft belt timing marks — 1.8L engine 89573g93.gif
              Fig. 2: Checking the silent shafts for proper positioning 89573g94.gif
              Fig. 3: Timing belt timing mark alignment — 1.8L engine 89573g95.gif
              To install:
            7. Align the timing marks of the silent shaft sprockets and the crankshaft sprocket with the timing marks on the front case. Wrap the timing belt around the sprockets so there is no slack in the upper span of the belt and the timing marks are still aligned.
            8. Install the tensioner pulley and move the pulley by hand so the long side of the belt deflects about 1⁄4 in.
            9. Hold the pulley tightly so the pulley cannot rotate when the bolt is tigthened. Tighten the bolt to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm) and recheck the deflection amount.
            10. Install the timing belt tensioner fully toward the water pump and tighten the bolts. Place the upper end of the spring against the water pump body.
            11. Align the timing marks of the camshaft, crankshaft and oil pump sprockets with their corresponding marks on the front case or rear cover. NOTE: There is a possibility to align all timing marks and have the oil pump sprocket and silent shaft out of time, causing an engine vibration during operation. If the following step is not followed exactly, there is a 50 percent chance that the silent shaft alignment will be 180 degrees off.
            12. Before installing the timing belt, ensure that the left side (rear) silent shaft (oil pump sprocket) is in the correct position as follows:
              1. Remove the plug from the rear side of the block and insert a tool with shaft diameter of 0.31 in. (8mm) into the hole.
              2. With the timing marks still aligned, the shaft of the tool must be able to go in at least 2 1/2 in. If the tool can only go in about 1 in., the shaft is not in the correct orientation and will cause a vibration during engine operation. Remove the tool from the hole and turn the oil pump sprocket 1 complete revolution. Realign the timing marks and insert the tool. The shaft of the tool must go in at least 2 1/3 in.
              3. Recheck and realign the timing mark.
              4. Leave the tool in place to hold the silent shaft while continuing.
            13. Install the belt to the crankshaft sprocket, oil pump sprocket, then camshaft sprocket, in that order. While doing so, make sure there is no slack between the sprocket except where the tensioner is installed.
            14. Recheck the timing marks' alignment. If all are aligned, loosen the tensioner mounting bolt and allow the tensioner to apply tension to the belt.
            15. Remove the tool that is holding the silent shaft and rotate the crankshaft a distance equal to 2 teeth on the camshaft sprocket. This will allow the tensioner to automatically apply the proper tension on the belt. Do not manually overtigthen the belt or it will howl.
            16. Tigthen the lower mounting bolt first, then the upper spacer bolt.
            17. To verify correct belt tension, check that the deflection at the longest span of the belt is about 1⁄2 in.
            18. Install the timing belt covers and all related items.
            19. Connect the negative battery cable.

            Aug 02, 2010 | 1990 Plymouth Laser

            2 Answers

            Wher is the fuel filter located on a 2003 Mercury Mountaineer and how do you change it?


            Mercury Mountaineer fuel filter is located in front and on top of fuel tank behind two shields. . When you look just behind the front passenger side tire you will see the first shield. Behind that is the second. U will need to buy the fuel line release tools to get the lines off the filter, any good auto parts store will have these.

            May 02, 2009 | 2003 Mercury Mountaineer

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