Question about 2006 GMC Canyon

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My 2005 canyon with 3.5 engine has rod and main bearing rattle when it is started first thing in the morning. the rest of the day it is ok. can you ancer this problem.

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07-06-01-016B
This bulletin cover the use of wrong oil filters on the engine. The use of GM oil filters is recommended on your truck.

What happens is the oil will go into the oil pan over night causing the engine knock in the morning. The GM oil filter has a check valve in it to hold the oil in the upper half of the engine.


Posted on Sep 07, 2009

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I got a load squeal/whistle engine area.


If you removed the belt/s up front and have the noise. The only thing moving is the crank shaft. The noise is bad main or rod bearings. Time for a rebuild or new engine.

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If its a knocking sound:

A KNOCKING SOUND IN THE ENGINE IS MOST LIKELY CAUSED BY ONE OF THE FOLLOWING
1. PISTON SLAP: Makes a sharp metallic noise. Idle engine and short out each cylinder plug. The noise will disappear when plug with bad piston is shorted. Noise will also disappear at acceleration. This can be caused by worn or out of round cylinder, or broken piston ring. Correct problem by re-boring cylinder and/or replacing piston.
2. VALVE NOISE: Makes clicking or rattle noise. Caused by excessive wear on valve stem or lifter, out of adjustment, or stuck valve. Correct by adjusting valve clearance, replace worn valve or lifter, regrind cam, replace valve guide and /or valve. A stuck valve can sometimes be loosened by passing oil through the carburetor while engine is running.

3. ROD BEARING KNOCK: Makes sharp metallic noise similar to a piston slap. Detection is opposite of piston slap. Rod knock is not heard at idle. Knock becomes louder as engine speed is increased. Caused by excessive rod bearing clearance. Correct by adjusting rod bearing clearance to .0015 inches by removing shims. May require re-pouring rod bearing.
4. REAR MAIN BEARING KNOCK: Makes dull knocking or thud noise. Detected at speeds between 20 and 50 MPH. Knock will normally decrease or disappear while pulling or decelerating. Noise will be detected the loudest at normal driving speed, when not pulling or decelerating. Correct by adjusting bearing clearance to .001 to .0015 inches. If knock is excessive, crank should be checked for out of roundness. May need to re-pour all main bearings to correct.
5. TIMING GEAR KNOCK: usually the most difficult to diagnose. If gear is loose or badly worn it will knock in all ranges. Run engine slightly above idle speed. Slowly open and close throttle. Knock will continue to be present, but just as engine slows down knock will become a slight rattle. Remove timing pin and reinsert into timing hole on timing gear cover. Press timing pin tightly against timing gear and accelerate slightly above idle. Knock will significantly be reduced or disappear. Correct by replacing both timing gear and crank gear as a matched set. The two gears should have a backlash clearance of .003 to .004. If more than .009 inch backlash, an oversize (.005) timing gear should be installed.
6. WRIST PIN SLAP: This can not be detected by shorting out the cylinder plugs. Rapidly accelerate and decelerate the engine speed. The engine will pass through a certain speed range when the wrist pin will rattle at about the same pitch as a valve tappet noise. This can be corrected by installing a new wrist pin bushing in the rod or new wrist pin f badly worn. Wrist pin should fit the piston and connecting rod with a tight metal to metal fit. The pin can be pushed into the piston and rod with a slight pressure of the hand. Pin to rod clearance is .0003 to .0005 inches.

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Could be many things and here are some.....Valves,lifters,rod knocking or main bearings going bad,these are thing inside motor.. now outside motor could be loose pulley waterpump a bracket and on and on. Realy need to take it to a mechanic because without seeing and hearing it is just a guess....hope this info help and good luck...Please rate my post..

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Rattleing and knocking noise in engine when running. Fades in and out.


Sounds like a main or connecting rod bearing is starting to go.Need to be more specific of when and how often it dose this.Also how many miles on engine.If your talking 100,000 or more its definitly a bearing.The more your run this engine (if its a bearing) the more damage your doing.Either way it dosent sound good.If this is a 350 or 305 engine if the oil wasent changed regularly these engines are known for bearing knocks.

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Hi im fixing a 89 honda civic have everything to put it back together but the torque settings for mains,connector rod bearings head stage 1,2,3 an the rest thanks


CRANK SHAFT PULLEY BOLT TORQUE IS 83 FT LBS. MAIN BEARINGS TORQUE IS 48 FT LBS ROD BEARINGS TORQUE 23 FT LBS. YOU NEED A BEARING SEQUENCE GET PIECE OF PAPER WRITE NUMBERS 9 5 1 3 7 AND UNDER THIS NUMBER LINE NUMBERS UP ON EACH OTHER WRITE DOWN NUMBERS 8 6 2 4 10 YOU HAVE 10 CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARING BOLTS. WHEN YOU LINE UP BOTH NUMBERS YOU WILL START TIGHTEN BOLTS 1 AND 2 TIGHTEN BOLTS 3 AND 4 TIGHTEN BOLTS 5 AND 6 TIGHTEN BOLTS 7 AND 8 TIGHTEN BOLTS 9 AND 10 YOU ARE TIGHTEN BOLTS IN A CRISS CROSS PATTERN. BESURE TO POUR OIL OR LUBRICATE CRANKSHAFT AND BEARINGS WITH CLEAN ENGINE OIL.WHEN YOU TORQUE MAIN BEARINGS TORQUE ALL THEM TO 20 FT LBS AND SECOND PASS TORQUE ALL BOLTS TO FINAL TORQUE 48 FT LBS. IF YOU RUN TO ANY PROBLEMS. YOU CAN BUY A HAYNES REPAIR MANUAL IT CAN HELP YOU.

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Have a rattling engine noise from bottom end of my 2003 Dodge 1500 5.7 hemi engine. Any idea what it might be?


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Loud knocking sound when giving gas or changing gears. Oil is fine.


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Jul 01, 2010 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a 2005 ram1500 slt.when i start it after it


Often when I see this problem it's due to a loss of oil between the main and rod bearings while the motor is off. When the motor is restarted it takes a second or so for oil pressure to build back up and provide the cushion between the bearings and the crankshaft, thus the hard rattle type noise that occurs. A few things can cause this: low or dirty oil, an oil filter that is allowing oil to drain back out of it when the engine is off, or worn rod and and main bearings. The tapping noise you hear may be the hydraulic valve lifters that are also partially empty of oil. These often can take up to a minute or more to fully refill and become quiet again. If it's been more than 3,000 miles since your last oil change I would start there as it's the easiest and cheapest thing to eliminate first. Use a top quality oil and filter for best results as it's the most vital and least expensive maintenance procedure you can do to prolong engine life.

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You have one of several things wrong
1- threw a rod = expensive
2- locked the engine up = expensive
3- lost the timing belt or chain = expensive but not as - IF _-- you didn't bend any rods

I hope this kind of helps - as I know no one wants to hear this kind of news.
I hope the best for you but it does sound like major engine problems.

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