Engine is had starting, idles extremely rough, no accel. at all.
2000 dodge 2500 2wd, 5.9L 24V TDL, auto tran. Truck was running when I killed it and changed fuel filter. It would not start. Lift pump was bad. Towed to diesel mech. Mechanic installed new l/pump, bled air, etc. He said the only way he could keep the truck running (rough with no acceleration) was with a charger(boost) on the left battery. They don't work on electrical problems. He felt the inj. pump was okay. Towed to dodge dealer. Dodge dlr said the injector pump was bad ?? ''STOP'' Towed to back yard before I have 5 or 6 thousand dollars wrapped up in a 9 thousand dollar truck. This lift pump installation has blown up in my face and I need to take a breath. Do I really have an electrical problem? Can a bad PCM, etc. make it appear the pump is bad on diagnostics? I ran a scan myself twice. The first time = P0251,P0252,P1688. Erased codes, pulled neg. cables for 30 min. Started engine. It ran about 20 seconds. The second scan = P1688 only. Should I pull the PCM first and have it checked ? Is it possible that the inj. pump and an electrical problem exists simply from changing the lift pump? I'm hoping someone out there has had a similar problem and would throw me bone.
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if now it won`t start it could be a spark(ignition)problem, check for spark at the plug. you should check for a code in the pcm this may help, not all codes set the check engine light. could also be a bad fuel pressure problem.
I really need to know the mileage.....?..also the question isn't very clear ...Is the whole truck shaking roughly or is the engine shaking roughly or is it both the engine and truck shaking..?..Since I am not sure I will answer what I can....Ok......If the truck is shaking while sitting still at idle the engine/trans mounts could be worn and or loose mounting hardware...If the engine is running roughly at idle causing all to shake that bad it could be a number of things causing it as usual...Quite often a faulty plug wire/and or bad plug will make it have a misfire because it will be running on only 5 cylinders..If that's the case it could be more than one bad...A vacuum leak will cause it to perform in the same manner...however all cylinders will be firing..Normally a vacuum leak is easy to pinpoint..however it could be a faulty IAC valve..(IDLE AIR CONTROL)..The idle air control is designed to hold a high idle at start up then slowly bring idle down to proper Rpm.....A faulty TPS (THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR) will also cause a rough running problem..And let's not forget the O2 sensor..(OXYGEN SENSOR)..The O2 sensor controls air/fuel mixture...and yes an exhaust manifold gasket will make it run rough but not too bad...It has a rough running sound more so than causing it to horribly shake..It will shake but not to bad..
it is located at the exhaust side of engine..The exhaust manifold is mounted to the engine exhaust port..the exhaust pipe is mounted to the exhaust manifold and the muffler/cat converter is mounted to the exhaust pipe...You can check the plug wires quickly..With engine running carefully remove plug wires 1 at a time..If the sound of engine gets worse the wire you removed is good..after verifying it is good or bad plug wire back on then pull the next wire..and so on..If you pull a wire off and there is no change in engine operation that is the bad wire..If that is the case change all plugs and wires...One at a time..(It is a good idea to make sure all wires come off easily before starting engine..old wires will come apart easily..grasp wire tightly at boot and twist left to right while pulling..)as far as the other components I spoke as well as many others,the best,easy way is to have it hooked to a scanner and they can check/test all components for proper operation...Now..If it runs good but is shaking the engine/trans mounts are worn as I stated earlier..any loose engine component will cause an engine shake also but you should notice it at a glance...engine mount bolts/nuts being loose can be tightened without changing mounts if caught in time..Trans could be coming loose.also worn clutch will cause vibration...Send more info and I can guide you to remove and replace any faulty components you may find to save you money.........Brooks/Metalpoet.....
This truck has problems with the cover inside intake leaking vacuum and causing rough idle and oil usage , its hard to say what your problem is with out testing, have you had the check engine light scanned for codes? what year is this dodge?these also had intake leak problems. try starting the engine and let it idle and then with some carburator cleaner spray around intake gasket and see if idle changes if it does then you have a intake gasket leak, another problem may be a leaking injector, try some sea foam in the gas tank and run a half tank of gas and see if that helps, otherwise a fuel injection system cleaning would be the way to go but this is only if its an injector problem, if this truck is 1996 or newwer have the computer scanned at an auto parts store for any codes. if there are codes let me know what they are even list the code and #. good day
have auto zone run a scan on the truck its free overheating you need a seperate cooler for you trans pulling trailer put a high load on trans this will make the trans last longer and run cooler I would put the cooler as low as possible in the very front of your radiators
intermittent lean condition may be caused by leaking intake manifold gaskets. Get some carb cleaner and start the truck. Open the hood and spray carb cleaner on the intake manifold gaskets. If the engine reacts at all, you have a gasket leak. If you have questions, please let me know.
ROUGH IDLING CAN BE CAUSE BY MANY THINGS.I AM LOOKING AT LEAKING VACUUM HOSES OR INTAKE MANIFOLD GASKET LEAK.DIRTY FUEL INJECTORS AND WORN ENGINE VALVES WILL CAUSE ROUGH IDLING.ALSO LOW IDLE SPEED CAUSE ENGINE TO RUN ROUGH.
do a pressure test on the fuel pump. if that tests ok then check your sensors. is it shooting a code (service engine light)? Oxygen sensor at back of cat. converter, crank shaft sensor or throttle position sensor. Unfortunately sensors are hard to trace. These are the suggestions I recd. for my bravada. it idles great but dies about every 1000 feet or so while driving. cut it off and re-crank and go another 1000-2000 ft. and do it again, will start running rough until you kill the ignition and restart the truck. pretty sure mine is a weak fuel pump.