Question about 1995 Dodge Ram

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I had to replace all the brakelines(rusted out). I bled all the lines removing any air. I have very little brake pedal. I then replaced the master cylinder because the pedal was slowly going to the floor. Is there something that I need to reset on the ABS to improve the brakes. My father is a mechanic were both stumped.

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  • Richard Scordino May 11, 2010

    I'd carefully inspect every line junction for seepage. I would also re-bleed the system starting at the master cylinder itself. even if the abs had a total failure, the system should revert to normal brake operation as "default". The only similar problem I've seen recently was a pontiac G/A that after a routine pad replacement had a low pedal. The front rotors were a bit worn and after replacing them the system returned to normal. That makes no sense to me because the caliper pistons were not over-extended and should have taken up the slack easily (were free as well). I have a problem with any "new" part I install...used to be fairly reliable. With rebuilt parts coming form many different countries, quality control does not exist..Therefore,.master is still suspect.

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  • Master
  • 298 Answers

Hi there is a bleeding sequence did you follow the sequence ?

Posted on Sep 06, 2009

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1 Answer

I have a 23 t bucket and i cant get a brake pedal.when i bought it had very little brake so i replaced rear shoes and cylinders,front pads and calipers,all new lines and the master cylinder


Once you have bled the air from the brake lines,clamp off the front brake hoses carefully.Does the pedal feel better now?
Then the pad /caliper fit is allowing too much play.Is the pedal the same?Then clamp the rear hose and try the pedal.Is it fine with the rear hose clamped?If so we now know the problem is at the rear brakes.One common low pedal rear brake cause is brake shoes that do not fit the drums.Remove the drums and look at the shoes,are they showing contact wear fully or just in the middle of the shoe?Remove a shoe and place it in the drum.Can you rock the shoe against the drum surface?Once drums have been resurfaced,the shoes will not fit fully against the drum allowing the shoe the flex when applying pressure to it and this can easily create a low soft brake pedal. Of course rear brake adjustment must be correct once brake shoe contact is correct.To correct brake shoe contact,have your shoes re arc-ed to fit resurfaced drums or install new drums.Don't overlook brake master cyl /brake pedal push rod adjustment too.

Jun 24, 2017 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

1999 dodge durango soft brake pedal only wen i start it


have someone have there foot on the brake & start vehicle, inspect the flexible brakelines to see if any are balooning out. You could also clamp off one flexible line at a time & press brake & when you find the brake at fault the pedal will go hard.

Oct 12, 2012 | 1999 Dodge Durango

1 Answer

I replaced the whole back break line,as i try to bleed them i get fluid out of the front passenger side and the back driver side,but nothing out of the other two.whats the problem?


Hi, your proportioning valve is stuck. Take the caps off and recenter the one stuck valve. Then rebleed the system using the procedure below. Thanks for using fixya.

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For those of us who are not fortunate enough to have access to a power bleeding tool, the manual brake bleeding procedure will quite adequately remove air from the hydraulic system. The major difference between the pressure and manual bleeding procedures is that the manual method takes more time and will require help from an assistant. One person must depress the brake pedal, while another opens and closes the bleeder screws.
  1. Deplete the vacuum reserve by applying the brakes several times with the ignition OFF .
  2. Clean the top of the master cylinder, remove the cover and fill the reservoirs with clean fluid.
  3. The master cylinder must be bled first if it is suspected to contain air. If the master cylinder was removed and bench bled before installation it must still be bled, but it should take less time and effort. Bleed the master cylinder as follows:
    1. Position a container under the master cylinder to catch the brake fluid.
    2. Loosen the front brake line(s) at the master cylinder and allow the fluid to flow from the front port.




WARNING Do not allow brake fluid to spill on or come in contact with the vehicle's finish as it will remove the paint. In case of a spill, immediately flush the area with water.

  1. Tighten the line connection(s).
  2. Have an assistant depress and hold the brake pedal.
  3. Loosen the line connection(s) again, allowing air to escape from the master cylinder.
  4. Tighten the line(s), then have the assistant release the brake pedal and wait for 15 seconds.
  5. Repeat steps D through F until the line(s) are free of air.
  6. When finished bleeding the air from the master cylinder, tighten the line connections to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
  7. Repeat steps B through H, only with the master cylinder rear pipe fitting(s).

  1. Refill the master cylinder with fresh brake fluid.



WARNING Never reuse brake fluid that has been bled from the system.

  1. If a single line or fitting was the only hydraulic line disconnected, then only the caliper(s) or wheel cylinder(s) affected by that line must be bled. If the master cylinder required bleeding, then all calipers and wheel cylinders must be bled in the proper sequence:
    1. Right rear
    2. Left rear
    3. Right front
    4. Left front

  2. Bleed the individual calipers or wheel cylinders as follows:
    1. Place a suitable wrench over the bleeder screw and attach a clear plastic hose over the screw end. Be sure the hose is seated snugly on the screw or you may be squirted with brake fluid.
    2. Submerge the other end of the tube in a transparent container of clean brake fluid.
    3. With the help of an assistant, apply the brake pedal slowly and hold.


During the bleeding procedure, make sure your assistant does NOT release the brake pedal while a fitting is loosened or while a bleeder screw is opening. Air will be drawn back into the system.
  1. While the assistant continues to apply pressure to the brake pedal, loosen the bleeder screw, and watch for air bubbles in the container.

Be very careful when loosening the wheel cylinder and brake caliper bleeding screws. The bleeder screws often rust in position and may easily break off if forced. To help prevent the possibility of breaking a bleeder screw, spray it with some penetrating oil before attempting to loosen it. Installing a new bleeder screw will often require removal of the component and may include overhaul or replacement of the wheel cylinder/caliper.
  1. Tighten the bleeder screw.
  2. Instruct the assistant to release the brake pedal.
  3. Wait approximately 15 seconds, and instruct the assistant to depress the brake pedal again.

Remember, if the reservoir is allowed to empty of fluid during the procedure, air will be drawn into the system and the bleeding procedure must be restarted at the master cylinder assembly.
  1. Repeat steps C through F until there are no air bubbles present in the container.

  1. Check the pedal for a hard feeling with the engine not running. If the pedal is soft, repeat the bleeding procedure until a firm pedal is obtained.
  2. If the brake warning light is on, depress the brake pedal firmly. If there is no air in the system, the light will go out.
  3. Once all the air is bled from the system, install the bleeder screw caps.
  4. After bleeding, make sure that a firm pedal is achieved before attempting to move the vehicle.

Feb 14, 2011 | 1994 Pontiac Grand Am

2 Answers

Got a 2000 chevy silverado 1500 4wd changed pads and replaced a line think got air in lines cant get any brake pressure to pedal. do i need to take it to shop to fix problem?


No you need to bleed the brakes.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c0IdNb3hEqI
If that doesn't help you need a master cylinder.
Its where the brake pedal is hooked to. and all the brake lines are hooked to it. if you pump the pedal up and leave little pressure on the brake pedal and it slowly goes down with just the wieght of your foot? That is a sighn your master cylinder is bad.

Feb 02, 2011 | Chevrolet 1500 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

1998 Suburan brake pedal gushes air along the firewall.


you got it, the booster is leaking reducing the vacuum to the intake, replace it

Oct 26, 2009 | Chevrolet Suburban 1500 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Pistons in both front calipers stay out, both calipers replaced


You may have a leak in the booster or master cylinder. You can put a pressure tester on the system to test for leaks. It does sound like you have an air leak.
You can try to bleed the master cylinder, then slave cylinder, then brake lines.

Aug 24, 2009 | 1993 Oldsmobile Achieva

3 Answers

Replace brakes. now they go to the floor. bled air


When you fixed the brakes, did you take the lid off the master cylinder. I just wonder if you spilled out your brake fluid. The only reason the pedal should go to the floor is if the brake fluid is gone or the master cylinder is not working. Check the fuse. Check the brake fluid level. The pedal only goes to the floor if there is no back pressure in the lines between the master cylinder the lines to the brake pistion on the calipers. Please give me a good ratin and keep me informed.

Jul 07, 2009 | 1999 Cadillac DeVille

2 Answers

I have a 92 chrsy. 5th ave with no antilock brakes. just base brakes with rear drums. replaced master cly. due to leaking and replaced all the brake lines and hoses. i have good streams of fluid from all 4...


When you bleed the brakes are you starting with brake furthest from the master cylinder? Also was the master cylinder bench bled? If everything there is okay and you are not getting any air in fluid stream, you could try bleeding the brakes by having some one slowly pump the pedal till it is firm. Then have them let off open first bleeder valve and slowly depress to floor and hold there untol the valve is closed. repeat this at all bleeders. You may want to have car running to do this. Try this and let me know.

Jul 02, 2009 | Chrysler New Yorker Cars & Trucks

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