Fuses and relays are ok, but also have a battery drain using a test light on the neg terminal test. The test light on the neg battery terminal goes out when the tcb fuse is pulled. Tried a short finder for a while but didn't see anything. HELP!
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Check the power feed for the pump at the fuel pump relay. Pull the relay out, and with a test light clipped to a ground, probe all the terminals that the relay plugs in to. One terminal should be hot at all times. If no terminal has power, either a fusible link off the battery has failed or a maxi fuse has blown-check a wiring diagram to see how the relay gets power to it. If the relay has power to it, check the other relay terminals with the engine cranking. When cranking the engine, two terminals should have power-the fuel pump feed, and the signal from computer to activate the relay. If both signals are present, check the pump wire from relay to tank, check the fuel pump ground, and check if the coil side of relay has a good ground-signal from computer goes to coil input side, the coil output terminal should go to ground. Good luck. Post back with what you find.
Do you have a test light? If not, go buy a cheap $5 test light-one with a lead to clip to a ground, and with a needle type probe. Pull the fuel pump relay out of the terminals it is plugged into-you need to check if the power feed for the pump is still available at the relay. Clip the test light lead to a ground and touch the test probe to the positive battery post-to check that your ground is good- tester should light up. Now touch the probe to all of the terminals that the relay plugs into. One terminal should have power with key off. If no terminals have power, you have lost the power feed for the pump. Double check all your maxi fuses in the power distribution box. Either a maxi fuse or a fusible link will be the power feed for the fuel pump relay. If the power feed is there at the relay, try a new relay. If still no pump, a shop will probably have to check your fuel pump circuit. Did you check for power at the fuel tank while the key was held in crank? When the engine is cranking, the fuel pump wire should have power. When the key is turned to on, the fuel pump should have power for about 2 seconds, to pressurize the fuel system. Then when key is turned to crank or start, the fuel pump should stay on.
Best thing to do is disconnect the neg battery terminal put your volt meter on amps and hook it up in series from the neg cable head to the battery neg and disconnect fuses one at a time until the draw goes away,then narrow it down from there
Hi, the relays should be in the box under the hood. Check the INJ fuse and the PUMP fuses. If those are good, interrogate the relay socket using a voltmeter or 12 volt test light. Connect the test light clip or voltmeter probe to chassis ground and probe the relay socket. With the key off, there should be one hot terminal. With the key on, there should be 2 hot terminals. If not, the MAIN RELAY is not coming on and you will need to interrogate that relay socket as well. If there are 2 hot terminals in the PUMP RELAY socket with the key on, move the test light clip/probe to battery positive and probe the socket again. You should get similar results from the other 2 terminals in the socket. The pump terminal may be only a dim light, but the terminal from the ECM should be a bright light/battery voltage. If not, the ECM is not turning the relay on--possibly due to the anti-theft system or some other safety feature. Please let me know if you have questions, and thanks for using FixYa.
Hi, first check fuses 28 and 34 in the box under the hood. If the fuses are good, use a 12 volt test light or voltmeter to see if there is battery voltage at fuse 34. If there is voltage at the fuse, the problem is likely the fuel pump relay in the interior fuse box, but could be the ground signal/wire from the PCM. If there is no voltage at the fuse, check the socket of the PCM power relay. Pull the relay out, connect your test light clip to chassis ground, and probe the terminals in the relay socket. There should be one hot terminal with the key off and 2 hot terminals with the key on. If not, the PCM diode may be bad. Please let me know the outcome of your tests or if you have any questions, and thanks for using FixYa.
Your fuel pump is powered by the GREEN fuse link in the fuse link holder. If you have 2 terminals (both WHITE/BLACK wires) at the fuel pump relay that is HOT all the time (even with the key OFF) then this fuse link is OK. There are no other fuses to be concerned with.
There is also a "Fuel Pump Control Unit" located on the left rear quarter panel, behind the "B" pillar. (See Picture)
Hi, have you checked the fuel pump relay? It is turned on by the PCM. You can try swapping it with a similar relay in the box under the hood. If that doesn't work, probe the relay socket with a 12 volt test light to see what's going on. With the key off, there should be one hot terminal in the relay socket. With the key on, there should be 2 hot terminals and one ground terminal. To find the ground terminal, hook the test light clip to battery positive and probe the socket. A grounded terminal will light the light brightly. The pump terminal should light the light dimly. The 2 hot terminals should not light the light at all. Please let me know if you have questions, and thanks for using FixYa.
Obviously, the pump is not receiving any power and your rube goldberg is not doing the trick. Get a hold of a schematic and you will do the job right. In the meantime just hookup a wire from the battery plus terminal to the pump plus terminal with a on/off switch so you can turn the pump on and off manually.