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Starts sometime and the next time it just spins has a new cumputer new distributor firing coil ignition modgol crack senser new crack senser wiring new fuel pump assembly new sarter new relay and fuses knock senser

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318 ci. Why does it lose fire to new coil?


Check for loose wires around the coil post also check for broken wire inside the dist/pickup coil in the distributor and if maybe a relay is intermittent in the ignition system. Hope this helps. .

Nov 25, 2015 | Chrysler Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

1995 geo metro humid weather starting problems 3 cylinder


Next time it doesn't start, spray your plug wires and distributor cap with WD40. If it fires right up replace your plug wires. I had the same problem with my 3 cyl 1.0L .

Feb 20, 2015 | 1995 Geo Metro

3 Answers

Will turn over without fire, replaced brain and the ignition coil


bet on the module,if it's tfi it's on the side of the dist.85 could be either way,may be the older fender mounted module.
If it's dist. mounted Ford recomends replacing the pick up coil also. There is a wire with a plug on the tfi's ,you remove the "cap" to set the timing,just 2 wires with a gray cap on the end.Maybe that's the wire you mentioned.

Jun 08, 2012 | 1985 Ford F150

1 Answer

I need answer for truck not firing. On. A 1991. SERRIA 1500 TRUCK 5.0 LITER


Several things can cause this problem, cracked distributor cap, old ignition rotor. Or if you have coil packs, cracked coil pack, ignition control module, crank position sensor, cam position sensor. Coil pack parts and sensors can be checked by autozone, cap and rotor will have corrosion on the rotor, however a small crack in the distributor cap can be next to impossible to see, replacement is usually best option.

Feb 16, 2012 | 2000 GMC New Sierra 1500

1 Answer

Tested coil no fire tested disterbeotor no fire, tested started had fire dashboard lights completety up, what should i do next? what to look for and how do i get fire to coil to start?


Hello, Bridget.. The problem is getting voltage/current to battery side of the coil
Need to check the coil. Easy way here. remove all the wires the are attached to coil but leave the coil grounded to the car body. Remove the coil wire from the distributor and lay it down next to some metal material. Take a piece of wire (16ga) or larger and attach one end to the positive side of the battery (+). Now, take the other end of the wire and touch the battery side of the coil---off/on--off/on--off/on. Now look at the end of the coil wire that up against the body/metal and see if it is sparking (dark blue and about one inch long), if it is sparking then the coil is OK.

You know it not working with the distributor connected. So, that leaves two things
the pickup sensor in the distributor or the ignition module. My educated guess will be the ignition module. It is located on the driver side fender, and it will look a 5X5 inch square with large plug that is plug into the module and held there with a screw.

Now, to check the distributor pick up coil. Check with the auto store and ask them what would be the resistance across the coil, or what is the resistance across the two wire from the distributor. If it check out OK, then ignition module is bad. I hope this help you out, GB....stewbison

Oct 15, 2011 | 1994 Plymouth Voyager

3 Answers

I have a 1993 chev pick-up v6 4.3, i just installed new spark plugs,new plug wires, distributor cap and rotor button.All plug wires are back in the right position,and i used the firing order 1-6-5-4-3-2...


This diagram is for 1998-1995 Chevy 6 cylinder 4.3L engines.
Your got the firing order exactly correct, at 1-6-5-4-3-2, but here's the thing to double-check:
The distributor rotation is clockwise (note badly rendered arrow in picture).



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Since you probably got everything right, then you're left with really unusual/rare causes of
failure of the ignition system:
(a) rotor button misaligned/failing to make contact?
(b) rotor button not pressed onto distributor shaft far enough therefore failing to provide correct
proximity to distributor cap contacts when coil fires
(c) coil wire or contact loose/disconnected - press coil wire firmly down into distributor cap.
(d) distributor shaft of other damage caused during installation of rotor.
(e) spark plug wires defective from factory
(f) spark plugs defective from factory
(g) battery low - may need a charge to start
(h) ICM (ignition control module) failure - hook up your HEI (high energy ignition) tester, and
watch the quality of the spark on each cylinder.
(i) fuel problem? If spark is being properly delivered, its gotta be a fuel problem...
(j) distributor cap not screwed down flush to top of distributor? maybe just on one side?

Inspect the inside of the distributor cap - if there are lots of little metal bits all over the inside
of the distributor cap, then you know you have a misalignment of some type in there, and the
rotor and cap are destroying each other. normal operation will throw a quota of spark-ed off
metal bits inside the distributor cap, but since your cap is brand new, your attempts to start
the engine should have rotated the distributor so few times, you should see no metal debris.

Inspect the distributor cap contacts to see if any spark marks are more of less in the middle
of the cap's proper "contact zone". If not, you've diagnosed an internal misalignment, which
you know how to correct.

Sep 14, 2011 | Chevrolet 1500 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Get fire every where else but through distributor and plugs spins over fine changed distributor, plug wires, coil, and ignition coil and still won't start what else to do i checked for bad grounds and...


You have problem with you timing or did you ever label all the high tension wire before you unplug it. it might be re arrange the firing sequence. 1342 firing order. And the timing position of the distributor were at original place.

Aug 16, 2011 | 1987 Nissan Pickup

1 Answer

89 k1500 towed, now fuel injectors dont fire. read all wired to and from ecm, check good. ecm will start another truck.


Check the ECM fuse and then check for any loose wire connectors, especially at the fire-wall area, the ignition coil, and the distributor. Then check for battery voltage at the positive side of the ignition coil when the ignition key is in the "On" or "Run" position, and there should also be battery voltage running over from a wire that is also connected to the positive side of the ignition coil, and then that wire will run over from the ignition coil to the ignition module inside of the distributor, and if there is battery voltage there at the ignition module, then either the ignition module or the pick-up coil inside of the distributor will be the most likely suspects for the cause of the problem.

The ignition module and the pick-up coil/stator located inside of the distributor is actually what generates the signal that the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, as well as the signal to run the fuel pump and the dwell signal timing to fire the ignition coil, and a faulty ignition module can cause any one of these systems to malfunction.

That does sound like it could also be a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores. If the ignition module does test out alright then the problem could still be in the pick-up coil/stator, (it can be tested using an ohm meter by dis-connecting the wire connector from the pick-up coil/stator and the ohm reading between the two wires from the pick-up coil/stator should be between 500 and 1500 ohm's, and both of the wires from the pick-up coil/stator should show an open loop or an infinite reading between each wire and ground) and if the pick-up coil/stator is found to be faulty then replace the entire distributor, or the distributor will have to be dis-assembled to install a new pick-up coil/stator.

If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.

To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.

The same principal applies to HEI (High Energy Ignition) ignition systems with the ignition coil mounted in the top of the distributor cap.


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Sep 18, 2010 | 1989 Chevrolet K1500

1 Answer

Car won't start, getting fire to igniton coil but no spark


If it's getting fire to coil then it would be either distributor cap / rotor, bad coil or plugs or wires.
Take off cap first, look for cracks, look at rotor for signs of corosion or being burnt, next look for cracked plug wires, finally take coil to auto part store and have it tested.

Jan 28, 2009 | Mitsubishi Diamante Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

94 Aerostar won't start. No fire


1 Inspect Battery Damaged or faulty battery and/or connections. here is a list of things u can check hope this helps Shaun 2 Inspect Coil - Ignition Damaged or faulty ignition coil or ignition coil circuit. grey_line.gif 3 Inspect Fuel Filter Clogged or dirty fuel filter grey_line.gif 4 Inspect Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator Faulty fuel injector pressure regulator or circuit. grey_line.gif 5 Inspect Fuel Pump Improperly functioning fuel pump or circuits. grey_line.gif 6 Inspect Wireset Damaged, worn, or deteriorating spark plug or coil wire(s). grey_line.gif 7 Inspect Control Module-Ignition Faulty ignition control module or circuit. grey_line.gif 8 Inspect Solenoid Switch Damaged or faulty solenoid switch or solenoid switch circuit. grey_line.gif 9 Inspect Starter Damaged, worn, defective, or faulty starter or starter related circuit. grey_line.gif 10 Inspect Neutral Safety Switch Damaged or faulty neutral safety swittch or circuit. grey_line.gif 11 Inspect Fuse Corroded, burned, or shorted fuse may be interupting power source. grey_line.gif 12 Inspect Fusible Link Corroded, burned, or shorted fusible link may be interupting power source. grey_line.gif 13 Inspect Battery Cable Corroded, broken or poorly connected battery cable. grey_line.gif 14 Inspect Spark Plug Wire Loom - Performance Improperly adjusted or worn/malfunctioning carburetor. grey_line.gif 15 Inspect Distributor Cap Loose or cracked distributor cap grey_line.gif 16 Inspect Distributor Cap And Rotor Kit Loose, cracked, or worn distributor cap and ignition rotor. grey_line.gif 17 Inspect Fuel System Pressure Incorrect fuel pressure being delivered to carburetor or fuel injection system. grey_line.gif 18 Inspect Fuel Injector Plugged, dirty or poorly connected fuel injector. grey_line.gif 19 Inspect Ignition Switch Worn, damaged or faulty ignition switch or circuit. grey_line.gif 20 Inspect Spark Plug Fouled, damaged or broken spark plug(s). grey_line.gif 21 Inspect Belt Incorrectly routed, adjusted(tensioned), missing or worn drive belt(s). grey_line.gif 22 Inspect Timing Belt Slipped or broken timing belt. grey_line.gif 23 Inspect Timing Set Slipped timing chain or worn timing gear(s). grey_line.gif 24 Inspect Fuel Tank Contaminated fuel from rusted or deteriorated fuel tank. grey_line.gif 25 Inspect Ignition Timing Incorrectly adjusted engine timing. grey_line.gif

Nov 23, 2008 | 1994 Ford Aerostar Extended

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