Question about 2001 GMC Yukon

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My AC belt has broken twice in less than 2 months. My friend looked at it and said that the free moving pulley sticks. What can I do to remedy this. Do I need to buy a new compressor?

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You should be able to buy a ac clutch and coil assembly,although they are expensive,but still cheaper than the ac compressor,the dryer,and oil,freon,and labor.A tech will have to do the work for you,or buy expensive tools.

Posted on Sep 06, 2009

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You can replace the clutch and pulley assembly with out replacing the whole compressor but you will have to take it to someone who has the tools required to do it. That is a fairly expensive part so you may want to get a quote on replacing the pulley and one for replacing the whole pump and see which is your best option.

Posted on Sep 06, 2009

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3 Answers

Serpentine belt not broken but will not run on pulleys engine starts but belt stays still


Did you recently replace the belt? If so, did you get the right belt ( not to short or to long). If not, was there any noise before it stopped moving? If the belt hasn't been touched, then it sounds like another component has seized and isn't allowing the belt to move. You could have oil, transmission oil, or anti-freeze on the belt / pulleys allowing it to slip. Belts become glazed with age and also need to be replaced. I would start with checking all the pulleys for smooth noise free operation, then clean all the surfaces, and change the belt. I like the Goodyear Gator belts.

Apr 13, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Looks like a faceplate or some sort of front cover on the ac compressor looks like it broke free. Possibly bolts snapped off?


The ac compressor has a clutch on the front end where the belt pulley runs. When the ac is off the clutch disengages and the compressor stops running. The pulley will continue to turn with the engine. If the belt is running normally and that pulley is turning normally along with the other accessories on the belt, it may not be broken, just that the clutch is disengaged. If it is still in place and spinning then your clutch is probably not broken, but more likely you are low on freon. When the freon is low a switch tells the compressor not to come on, and only the pulley will turn. Your ac will not get cold. There may also be other reasons the clutch won't pull in, such as fuses and such.

Sep 22, 2010 | 1993 Buick Regal

1 Answer

Putting on drive belt on a focus


My sincere apologies for the delayed response.
I am personally going back to answer your unanswered questions.
I have only been a free contributor to this site for the past 4-months.

I do not know if you still need this information, but I am going ahead and answering it anyway.

CLICK
on the following LINK. It has several Belt Diagrams, one which will match your specific engine and options (AC/No AC, Power Steering, .etc) that you will need.

Regarding HOW:
Standard Rule to Removal the Serpentine Belt:
1. Find the Tensioner(s). (See the Diagrams on Link)
2. Using a Serpentine Belt Tensioner Tool or Wrench or Ratchet Tool: Rotate/Move the Tensioner Pulley/Arm away from contact with the belt and towards the area where the belt is not in contact with the Tensioner Pulley. The Tensioner is spring loaded, and is hard to rotate/move.
3. Remove the loosened belt off one of the other more easily accessed Pulleys
.
Standard Rules for Installing the Serpentine Belt:
a. Pick a Pulley that is most easily accessed. This will usually be on top. This will be the last Pulley that the belt will go on.

b. Using the Diagram: Install the new Serpentine Belt on the remainder of the Pulleys....over, under, left right etc.
c. Using a Serpentine Belt Tensioner Tool or Wrench or Ratchet Tool: Rotate/Move the Tensioner Pulley/Arm "away" from Belt contact area on the Tensioner. This spring is pretty hard and with a new belt, it will be even harder to install. Rotate/Move this to as-close to the maximum ("open") allowed inorder to have enough slack in the belt to get it up and over the last pulley.
d. While keeping the Tensioner Pulley/Arm "open" Using your other hand - Pull the Belt up and over the Last remaining Pulley.
e. Before releasing the pressure on the Tensioner, visually inspect the remainder Pulleys and the Belts' Positioning on them.
Let me know if this helped...
Again my apologies..
http://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_information/year/2000/make/ford/model/focus/2000_ford_focus_drive_belt_routing_diagram.htm

Jan 19, 2010 | 2000 Ford Focus

1 Answer

How do I fit a drive belt to an Audi A4 1.9 tdi 1997


My sincere apologies for the delayed response.
I am personally going back to answer your unanswered questions.
I have only been a free contributor to this site for the past 4-months.

I do not know if you still need this information, but I am going ahead and answering it anyway.


CLICK on the following LINK. It has several Belt Diagrams, one which will match your specific (AC/No AC, Power Steering, .etc) that you will need. There is also plenty of other Diagrams that you don't need regarding the BeltS. Go approximately half-way and about three-fourths down the page on the Link to see the Belt Diagrams.
You have two (2) Types of Tensioners on your vehicle. You also have two (2) Belts on your Engine.

For the Top Belt:
Using a Serpentine Belt Tensioner Tool or Wrench: Rotate/Move the Tensioner Pulley/Arm (at the Base-located on the top of the mechanism) away from contact with the belt and towards the area where the belt is not in contact with the Tensioner Pulley. The Tensioner is spring loaded, and is hard to rotate/move. Remove the loosened belt off one of the other more easily accessed Pulleys.
For the Bottom Belt:
The Tensioner has a hex-key Locking Bolt to the top-right of the Tensioner. Loosen this locking bolt. The Tensioner Unit will shift, moving the Tensioner Pulley "Up" and "Off" the Belt.

Let me know if this helped...
Again my apologies..


http://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_information/year/1996/make/audi/model/a4/1996_audi_a4_drive_belt_routing_diagram.htm

Nov 01, 2009 | 1996 Audi A4

1 Answer

How to replace the drive belt in a mercury grand marquis 1989


Posted by Asker under the 1992 Mercury Grand Marquis for a 1989 model.

Sorry for the delayed response....
I am personally going back to answer your unanswered question.
I do not know if you still need the answer, but am answering it in case you do.


I also do not know if you have the 5.0L or 5.8L Engine or what options (AC/No AC, etc.).

Click on the following free, direct Link. It has the Serpentine/Drive Belt Diagrams for the 1989 Mercury Grand Marquis for both the 5.0L and 5.8L Engines and engine options (AC/No AC, etc.).

http://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_information/year/1989/make/mercury/model/grand_marquis/1989_mercury_grand_marquis_drive_belt_routing_diagram.htm

"HOW TO":
Standard Rules to Removal the Serpentine Belt with an Automatic Tensioner:
1. Find the Tensioner.
2. Using a Serpentine Belt Tensioner Tool, Or Wrench OR Ratchet, Rotate/Move the Tensioner USING THE AVAILABLE NUT (on the Pulley or Arm Base) OR the OPENING (3/8ths or 1/2 inch square opening) rotating the Tensioner Pulley/Arm - moving it away from contact with the belt and towards the area where the belt is not in contact with the Tensioner Pulley. The Tensioner is spring loaded, and is hard to rotate/move.
3. Remove the loosened belt off one of the other more easily accessed Pulleys.
4. DO NOT quickly release the Tensioner, but gently allow the Tensioner to rest in its closed position.

Standard Rules for Installing the Serpentine Belt with an Automatic Tensioner:
a. Pick a Pulley that is most easily accessed. This will usually be on top. This will be the last Pulley that the belt will go on.
b. Using the Diagram: Install the new Serpentine Belt on the remainder of the Pulleys....over, under, left right.
c. Using a Serpentine Belt Tensioner Tool or Wrench or Ratchet Tool: Rotate/Move the Tensioner Pulley/Arm "away" from Belt contact area on the Tensioner. This spring is pretty hard and with a new belt, it will be even harder to install. Rotate/Move this to as-close to the maximum allowed inorder to have enough slack in the belt to get it up and over the last pulley.
d. Using your other hand - Pull the Belt up and over the Last remaining Pulley.
e. Before releasing the pressure on the Tensioner, visually inspect the remainder Pulleys and the Belts' Positioning on them.
Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information questions. Feel Free to contact me at FixYa.com!


Oct 24, 2009 | 1992 Mercury Grand Marquis

1 Answer

Need to replace drive belt on 1998 ford taurus


My sincere apologies for the delayed response.
I am personally going back to answer your unanswered questions.
I have only been a free contributor to this site for the past 4-months.

I do not know if you still need this information, but I am going ahead and answering it anyway.

CLICK
on the following LINK. It has several Belt Diagrams, one which will match your specific engine and options (AC/No AC, Power Steering, .etc) that you will need.

Regarding HOW:
Standard Rules to Removal the Serpentine Belt:
1. Find the Tensioner(s). (See the Diagrams on Link)
2. Using a Serpentine Belt Tensioner Tool or Wrench or Ratchet Tool: Rotate/Move the Tensioner Pulley/Arm away from contact with the belt and towards the area where the belt is not in contact with the Tensioner Pulley. The Tensioner is spring loaded, and is hard to rotate/move.
3. Remove the loosened belt off one of the other more easily accessed Pulleys
.
Standard Rules for Installing the Serpentine Belt:
a. Pick a Pulley that is most easily accessed. This will usually be on top. This will be the last Pulley that the belt will go on.

b. Using the Diagram: Install the new Serpentine Belt on the remainder of the Pulleys....over, under, left, right etc.
c. Using a Serpentine Belt Tensioner Tool or Wrench or Ratchet Tool: Rotate/Move the Tensioner Pulley/Arm "away" from Belt contact area on the Tensioner. This spring is pretty hard and with a new belt, it will be even harder to install. Rotate/Move this to as-close to the maximum ("open") allowed inorder to have enough slack in the belt to get it up and over the last pulley.
d. While keeping the Tensioner Pulley/Arm "open" Using your other hand - Pull the Belt up and over the Last remaining Pulley.
e. Before releasing the pressure on the Tensioner, visually inspect the remainder Pulleys and the Belts' Positioning on them.
Let me know if this helped...
Again my apologies..

http://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_information/year/1998/make/ford/model/taurus/1998_ford_taurus_drive_belt_routing_diagram.htm

Oct 12, 2009 | 1998 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

Replace drive belt


My sincere apologies for the delayed response.
I am personally going back to answer your unanswered questions.
I have only been a free contributor to this site for the past 4-months.

I do not know if you still need this information, but I am going ahead and answering it anyway.

CLICK
on the following LINK. It has several Belt Diagrams, one which will match your specific engine and options (AC/No AC, Power Steering, .etc) that you will need.

Regarding HOW:
Standard Rule to Removal the Serpentine Belt:
1. Find the Tensioner(s). (See the Diagrams on Link)
2. Using a Serpentine Belt Tensioner Tool or Wrench or Ratchet Tool: Rotate/Move the Tensioner Pulley/Arm away from contact with the belt and towards the area where the belt is not in contact with the Tensioner Pulley. The Tensioner is spring loaded, and is hard to rotate/move.
3. Remove the loosened belt off one of the other more easily accessed Pulleys
.
Standard Rules for Installing the Serpentine Belt:
a. Pick a Pulley that is most easily accessed. This will usually be on top. This will be the last Pulley that the belt will go on.

b. Using the Diagram: Install the new Serpentine Belt on the remainder of the Pulleys....over, under, left right etc.
c. Using a Serpentine Belt Tensioner Tool or Wrench or Ratchet Tool: Rotate/Move the Tensioner Pulley/Arm "away" from Belt contact area on the Tensioner. This spring is pretty hard and with a new belt, it will be even harder to install. Rotate/Move this to as-close to the maximum ("open") allowed inorder to have enough slack in the belt to get it up and over the last pulley.
d. While keeping the Tensioner Pulley/Arm "open" Using your other hand - Pull the Belt up and over the Last remaining Pulley.
e. Before releasing the pressure on the Tensioner, visually inspect the remainder Pulleys and the Belts' Positioning on them.
Let me know if this helped...
Again my apologies..

http://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_information/year/2001/make/chevrolet/model/venture/2001_chevrolet_venture_drive_belt_routing_diagram.htm

Sep 28, 2009 | 2001 Chevrolet Venture

1 Answer

Belt and auto-tensioner


While installing a used belt just to get the truck home, I discovered that the pulley-bushing on the power steering pump was worn. This allows the pulley to move fore and aft, thus throwing the belt occasionally. What I learned from all of this can be catagorized as very basic troubleshooting. If you lose a belt that looks to be in good shape, then before you replace that belt, check all of your pullies and devices(water pump, alternator, power steering pump, AC, etc.). Look for pullies that can move or wiggle. And, look for lose or missing mounting bolts on the various devices. A loose or missing bolt may allow that device to become cocked at a slight angle, instead of remaining straight and true, thus throwing the belt.
Thanks
jklong, Alaska

Jan 17, 2009 | 1986 Ford Bronco

1 Answer

95 toyota corolla


If you have A/C, your 95 Toyota Corolla should have three belts. Alternator. A/C. Power steering.

Frank.
Frank's Friendly Cars Maui Car Rental.
www.MauiCarRental.biz

Dec 01, 2008 | 1998 Toyota Corolla

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Noisy water pump pulley,alternator pulley..timing belt tensioner


I have a 1995 xj6....same problem. I replaced the belts, water pump, and the alternator. Still does it. As I play with the tension on the belt (belt that drives water pump, alternator) it goes away and comes back. If I remove the belt, the metal to metal screech stops. I then, with just the belt, turned the main pulley on the front of the engine, and there was the sound! The main pulley has 2 belts that run on it. Also, 2 pulley tracks. They SHOULD move simultaneously and be super meshed. But the rear one moves on its own under tension until it warms up and I guess, the bushing maybe expands. Now.....how do I fix it??????

Nov 19, 2008 | 1995 Jaguar XJ-R

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