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I have an 86 1/2 ton has an 84 305 with HEI, want to know how to trouble shoot the coil. I do not have any spark have replaced the dis. cap and rotor, still no spark?? Checked the fuse and wires everything seems to be Ok.

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It sounds like your coil, try this remove the wire that goes from the coil to the distributor cap. you'll need help with the next part.Hold this wire barley away from the cap or ground source ( bare metal ), now have that other pair of hands try to start the engine.If you get a good bright spark it's not your coil.Be careful as the spark from the coil is high voltage ( DC ).Make sure you don't have any strong gas fumes.I've done this many times.Good Luck.

Posted on Sep 06, 2009

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Why I'm not get n fire to spark plug


Hey Troy, I need year--make--model? Any applicable trouble codes?
It depends on your ignition system? If distributor ignition system, have to check distributor--dis cap--rotor--spark plugs--spark plug wires and electrical circuits. If dis ignition, no distributor, but a coil pack, also check electrical circuits. You could have coil on plug ignition or coil near plug ignition. I need more info?

Mar 19, 2017 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

INSTALLING HEI IGNITION AND NEED HELP


i have no issues WITH CAPS, used to have a home computer in 70s with ASR33 printing terminal that did all caps..... all the time.
Is this a 1990 jeep? and what engine? you never stated the engine
4.2 L AMC straight-6 engine?

what distributor are you running off what engine, and what year.
is it with full mech, advance and vacuum advance , pre 1986?
the nutter bypass, 4.2L
it cuts the ECU out of spark controls.

this means ECU advance is killed, on now only the dumb
module runs advance.
the stock system had a ballast resistance wire. and the
start wire to the the coil bypasses this wire. for full coil power.
this is not used in HEI.
infact there are many HEI setups. which one. 7wire. ?

here is 7
http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms1extra/MS_Extra_Hardware_Manual_files/ew7hei.gif


if i had your rig, it upgrade it to MSD. sure would. done many.
by doing that , all the mystery of parts, that works ends.
if you need help, spec out your set up, including, schematic
and BOM, parts used, p/n of parts used.

here are 3 HEI ( 4,5,7 pin)

http://brianesser.com/tech/wiring/msd/WDTN_pn9615_Page_030.jpg

The biggest issues is spark timing curves.
getting them right for those Webers.
and standalone spark controls win here.

the right way
http://www.jegs.com/p/MSD-Ignition/MSD-Ignition-Controller-for-GM-EFI-Carbureted-LS-Engines/758329/10002/-1

You tune the spark advance for YOUR engine and setup.
not that funky stock spark box and nutter mod.

my guess, is you burned up the ballast when it hit the real
inside distributor coil primary, that is totally the wrong coil
for a ballast. I hope it dont burn up a good coil,,,,,,,
The coil and all wiring for EFI must be correct
and the bypass for starting , is useless. for that distrubutor
because it runs 12v all the time, so if the ballast did stay good
the HEI would be running way too low , at 8v. running.
and would fail.
here is a great HEI page, under dev. but is good.

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Hot_rodding_the_HEI_distributor

this link above shows how to get HEI right on a carb car
but fails to show the benefits of true spark advance tuning.
Great fuel economy can be attained under light loads
with large spark advance. and then less under full load.
(no pinging too)
The spark advance , allows the flame front to start at the correct time
to take advantage of piston rod angles.... and not send unburned fuel out the exhaust.
Id put an MSD in there and tune it carefully, I would. (webers a given)_

Feb 03, 2014 | 1990 Jeep Wrangler

1 Answer

Not getting spark


Are you getting power to the coil from the key switch ?
Do you know if the distributor shaft is turning ?
Have you checked the computer for trouble codes?
Did you use a new spring and button for the rotor ?
Let me know what you have checked so far and the results.

Aug 15, 2012 | 1988 Chevrolet Camaro

1 Answer

ITS CRANKING BUT NO SPARK- 96 ACCORD F22B2


Honda Accord,why go through the step of trouble shooting it, in the distributor is the ignitor just replace it.If you want to trouble shoot it use the vehicle tach, when you crank the vehicle do you see the RPM needle moving (just a realy vibrating bit) that a sign that the Ignitor is workning and if you got no spark your problem reside in the cap or the coil or even the sparkplug wire from cap to rotor

Mar 08, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a 86 firebird need to know what the 4 wires are that go to the the hei distribator


ok looking from the driver's side of vehicle at your distributor. There is a power wire (which on most accel or msd distributors) on the right in the first row the wire connection on the left is for a tachometer the row behind it can either have 2 or 3 wires most of the time 1 is usually black and it grounds the ignition coil module inside the cap the other wire/s tranfers power from power connection to coil. A hei or high energy ignition system uses the coil module to amplify the voltage from the standard 30k volts to about 45-50k volts

May 03, 2011 | 1980 Chevrolet Corvette

2 Answers

Not getting spark


need more info (need to know what type of ignition system your vehicle has: (1) traditional ignition coil /distributor system, or (2) electronic ignition, but lack of spark problems are usually a faulty coil
on traditional vehicles, and on the newer electronic ignition cars, total lack of spark would be
a faulty ECM (electronic control module) - partial lack of spark (diagnosed with a HEI (high energy ignition) spark tester kit), would be caused by a faulty coil pack (in the waste spark system), where
there's 1 coil pack for every 2 spark plugs.
I bought my HEI igntion testere kit for $20, but Harbor Freight sells a similar unit for $10.
Hope this helps.

Dec 27, 2010 | Ford F-250 Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

No spark from spark plug wires I think it may be the distributor cap or interior parts under cap like rotor and condensor but dont want to change parts thats are fine i replaced the plugs but still no...


There wrere two types of HEI (High Energy Ignition) distributors used by GM in 1985, one was the original design with the ignition coil mounted in the top of the distributor cap, and the second had the coil mounted seperate from the distributor and used a coil wire.

There is the possibility that the ignition coil is faulty and first check to see if full battery voltage is even getting to the "Pos" (+) positive side of the ignition coil when the key is in the "Run" position, and also if the coil is seperate from the distributor that full battery voltage is getting through the "Pos" (+) or positive side of the ignition coil and over to the distributor ignition module, dis-connect the wire connector from the ignition module and if battery voltage is not present at the connector to the ignition module with the key in the "Run" position but it is present at the "Pos" side of the ignition coil, then the ignition coil is faulty. If battery voltage is present then check the ohms between the high tension terminal (where the coil wire goes on the ignition coil) and the "Pos" terminal on the ignition coil by first dis-connecting the wires from the ignition coil and then test with the "Neg" lead from the ohm meter in the high tension terminal on the ignition coil, and the "Pos" lead from the ohm meter to the the "Pos" terminal on the ignition coil, and the ohm reading should be between 6,000 and 30,000 ohms and if not replace the ignition coil. A faulty ignition coil can also damage the ignition module.

The ignition module and the pick-up coil/stator located inside of the distributor is what generates the signal that the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, as well as the signal to run the fuel pump and the dwell signal timing to fire the ignition coil, and a faulty ignition module can cause any one of these systems to malfunction.

That could be a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores. If the ignition module does test out alright then the problem could still be in the pick-up coil/stator, (it can be tested using an ohm meter by dis-connecting the wire connector from the pick-up coil/stator and the ohm reading between the two wires from the pick-up coil/stator should be between 500 and 1500 ohm's, and both of the wires from the pick-up coil/stator should show an open loop or an infinite reading between each wire and ground) and if the pick-up coil/stator is found to be faulty then replace the entire distributor, or the distributor will have to be dis-assembled to install a new pick-up coil/stator.

If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.

To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.

Let me know if you require any further assistance.


GM HEI Ignition Coil (Mounted In Distributor Cap Type)
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Jul 30, 2010 | 1985 Chevrolet Chevy

1 Answer

Trouble shooting on chevy s-10 2.8 liter v6 pick up truck


sounds like the ground strap to me, it wouldn't be that the wires are in the wrong order that would still give you spark just to the wrong cylinder and believe me you'd know immediatly in that case.

No spark means no contact to the coil plain and simple..

Sep 29, 2008 | 1985 Chevrolet Chevy

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