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Re: rear end rattle when going over bumps
Usually its the sway bar links that rattle horribly,it sounds like the suspension is falling out...but its not, the sway bar links are usually pretty cheap and not bad too replace,if you can get under the car grab them and give em a good pull ans u will usually feel a little play in the ball and sockets on the ends of them,hope this helps,or have your hand on one and have a friend rock the car side to side and u might feel it then
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The tranmission is shared with the Toyota Cressida 82-87 model (that's the A43DE in Toyota speak if yours is a AW30-43) Yours is either a AW30-43 or AW30-40. Go to Wikipedia to get the equvalent of yours. Try Aisin Warner on Wikipedia. No need to pay top dollar at Volvo wreckers when a Toyota one will fit (just swap the bell housing and switches/controls) Remember the labour to swap is only three hours just make sure you totally flush the old fluid out (7.5 litres) & new front & rear seals go on the replacement gearbox and that the extension housing bushing is OK. Good luck.
A shaking engine usually is an indicator of an engine missfire. Secondary ignition components are the most common failure (Spark plugs, plug wires, etc..). Less likely, but still a consideration are the fuel system components such as the fuel injectors or filter. Further down the list with a vibration in gear at idle are bad engine mounts. If it worsens with engine load such as acceleration then it is likely the ignition system.
It could be the voltage regulator trying to charge a dead battery. (It could burn out if you keep doing this)
Or it could be a lifter noise, rust on the belt pulley from sitting in one position for two years. Buy a good battery, change the oil and put some fresh gas and fuel stabilizer. It might be nothing serious!
Try shifting the transmission to neutral and try starting the engine, if it starts, the gear position sensor is bad, which is very common on this car. Or, the starter may be bad, not common, but possible!
I have had the same symptom on my 1994' 960 (sedan).
I thought (told by the dealer) the shocks had worn out (although the car was only 110000 km !...), so I had the dealer change them (they had a promotion). It did not change much of anything, except it lifts a little bit more (about 1 cm more), but still "sags" after about 1/2 hour.
It takes about 1 km driving to pump back up.
I have never been observing that symptom on nivomat-equipped 940 wagons with solid rear axles, and knowing that 960 sedans (with multilink rear suspension) having nivomat wider (3.5") than rear solid axle wagons (940 and early 960) which are 2.5".
So, my interpretation is those wider ones support a great deal of the weight, even more that of 940 wagons, so they react differently by sagging more, due to internal micro-leaks.
Also, and consistently, springs with nivomats are thinner and they may also wear out faster than on standard supension, putting even more load on nivomats to compensate.
Therefore my conclusion was :
- It is not because of the shocks,
- It may be the springs
- It is not really a problem, is it ?