Question about Ford Econoline

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My ignition coil only has 5.5 volts why its a e 350

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  • Ernie Sep 06, 2009

    thank you, i have a 1987 econoline motorhome with a 460, for some time now its had fuel starving problems when going up hills, some days its ok for 20 or 30 miles then all of a sudden it will only go up hills at idle speed, if i give it more gas it will stall. i've replaced both electric fuel pumps , rebuilt the carb replaced the fuel diverter valve that sends unused fuel back to the tanks, replaced coil,replace ignition moduel, fuel cut off relay , oil pressure fuel cut off switch and blown out all fuel lines. ran unit with gas caps off to rule out venting problem, and now i had aproblem where the fuel pumps had no voltage to them so thats when i replaced th fuel cut off relay , so here is my question when i turn on the ignition the voltage at the ignition coil is 5.55 volts but when the engine is running the voltage drops to 3- 4 volts , could this be the problem after all , a weak spark causing my hill climing trouble i know the voltage should be 12 volts what would cause it to be so low .thanks to all who answer

  • James May 11, 2010

    bananas. no really, come on spend a few minutes and give enough info so some one can help you. year, make, model, engine size, what key position, what is the symptom, what lead up to the failure?

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  • Ford Master
  • 578 Answers

I MUST assume that you have already determined that this is a problem.... That the vehicle does not start and run.... With at assumption in place.....

Probably a bad connection between the ignition key contact and the coil. I am not aware of a resister in the Econoline ignition circuit... but some high performance (older) ignition HEI coils had a large resister in series with the battery (12 volt) feed.

The design of the resister was to limit the feed to the coil - to prevent arcing the wires. I do not think that was installed on engines other that the Boss 302, HiPo 390 and the 427. So, I will stick with the bad conductor (terminal rust, loose terminal lug, etc.

Consider (with the voltmeter connected) tapping on the ignition key switch, on the connector at a the center of the steering column, on the starter relay 12 volt lead, on the ignition relay at the fuse panel.... and anywhere else you can think of - while watching for a change in the voltage.

Posted on Oct 26, 2009

  • Jim DuBreck
    Jim DuBreck Oct 27, 2009

    Econoline $^) MOTOR HOME... new news... An econoline conjours a different vehicle...

    IN a word, yes. A weak spark will not fire a spark plug under higher PSI loads. When you step on the gas, you are asking the sparkplug to fire in a much higher pressure (on compression stroke) than when it is idling.



    But, as I gleaned from your writeup (second, longer, descriptive one), you have ruled out most problem areas. You never mentioned filters... did your replace the fuel filters... if not, spend the 10 or so dollars at walmart. Get a pair of inline filters....



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Can you use a distributor out of a 1972 350 chevy c10 and use it in a 1983 chevy 350 block


Not impossible, but bad idea. The old distributors used coils that maxed out at about 12k volts. The distributors after about 1975 were electronic and put out as much as 40k volts to ignite leaner mixtures. Also to timing advance systems were electronically controlled and the old ones were vacuum and mechanical. I don't think it is impossible, but I doubt it would ever pass tailpipe inspection, plus you will take a considerable performance hit.

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Hello. I have a 1989 Nissan Pickup truck. It has 6 cylindars. It died recengtly while I was driving. I put fuel in as I though I had run out of gas. It started again and made it home. the next day it...


Could be the crankshaft sensor, wiring, or the coil/ignition module. Che k to see if there is power on the black/white coil wire when the key is turned to statt. If not, you have a loose wire from the ignition. If power is there, test the crank sensor.
Your crank sensor is in the distributer. Here is a test for it:

Diagnosis and Testing

For further Diagnosis and Testing of the Engine Concentrated Control System (ECCS) refer to Chapter 4 or 5 in this guide. Additional distributor and ignition coil information can be found in Chapter 3 of this guide.
CRANK ANGLE SENSOR When the ignition is ON and the main ECCS relay is activated, 12 volts is sent to the crank angle sensor LED. When a slit uncovers the photo diode and it detects the light, a 5 volt signal is sent to the ECU. The unit is easy to test but it must be removed from the engine. Refer to to test procedure below.
  1. First test the circuit to the sensor. Unplug the sensor connector, turn the ignition ON and check for 12 volts between one of the terminals and ground. The other terminals are return signals to the ECU, do not use them for voltmeter ground.
  2. Turn the ignition OFF , remove the distributor assembly and reconnect the plug to the crank angle sensor. Peel back the insulation sufficiently to connect a voltmeter to the wires. Ground the coil high tension wire.
  3. With the voltmeter connected to a good chassis ground, turn the ignitionON and slowly rotate the distributor. One of the return signal wires should have 5 volts off and on with each degree of rotation. The other should have 5 volts off and on with each 180 degrees (4 cyl.) or 120 degrees (6 cyl.) of rotation.
  4. Visually check the rotor plate for rust or damage.

If the sensor tests good, replace the coil.

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Replace the TCM to fix the converter clutch problem.. The line 12 volt is direct power from the battery and 7 volts out the I am suspicious off as I think that the coil for the relay is partially shorting out to give the 7 volts. As for the other wire 12 volts in would be ok but if there is nothing out unless it is a relay that has not closed because the relay coil has not activated correctly.. Check the readings against a new relay.

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My 92 explorer has no spark


Hi, here are some tests you can do to diagnose the problem. Please let me know if you have questions.

First, use a voltmeter or 12 volt test light to check for power on the red wire going to pin 8 of the ignition control module when the key is on. The module is in the left front corner of the engine compartment.

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If there is no power, the problem is the ignition switch or EEC relay. If there is power, next, check the ignition coil as listed below.

IGNITION COIL TESTINGPrimary and Secondary Circuit Tests
  1. Turn the ignition switch OFF , disconnect the battery, then detach the wiring harness connector from the ignition coil to be tested.
  2. Check for dirt, corrosion or damage on the terminals.

PRIMARY RESISTANCE
  1. Use an ohmmeter to measure the resistance between the following terminals on the ignition coil, and note the resistance:

Except 2.3L, 2.5L and 5.0L engines


B+ to Coil 1 B+ to Coil 2 B+ to Coil 3
The resistance between all of these terminals should have been between 0.3-1.0 ohms. If the resistance was more or less than this value, the coil should be replaced with a new one.

SECONDARY RESISTANCE


jturcotte_2439.gif

Fig. Fig. 1: Engine ignition coil harness connections-3.0L and 4.0L engines

  1. Measure, using the ohmmeter, and note the resistance between each corresponding coil terminal and the two spark plug wire towers on the ignition coil. The coil terminals and plug wires towers are grouped as follows:
Except 2.3L, 2.5L and 5.0L engines

Terminal 3 (coil 1)-spark plugs 1 and 5 Terminal 2 (coil 3)-spark plugs 2 and 6 Terminal 1 (coil 2)-spark plugs 3 and 4

If the coils test good, move on the the crankshaft sensor.
Using a DVOM set to the DC scale to monitor less than 5 volts, measure the voltage between the sensor Cylinder Identification (CID) terminal and ground by backprobing the sensor connector. If the connector cannot be backprobed, fabricate or purchase a test harness. The sensor is okay if the voltage reading varies more than 0.1 volt with the engine running at varying RPM. (check both the blue and gray wires at the ignition module with the engine cranking.)



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Fig. Fig. 3: CKP sensor wire harness connections for the 4.0L (VIN X and E) engines


If there is power and both the coils and sensor check good, replace the ignition control module.

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1 Answer

Ok I was getting P0358 ignition coil H which i believed was cylinder8. I flipped the coil with cylinder7 now im getting code P0351 ignition coil A. Im still not exactly sure what those letters A & H...


Hello, the 300 Series is for plug misfires. The coil problem is designated a 350 Series. Your coils are lettered to follow the cylinder. 1=A, 2=B, 3=C, 4=D, 5=E. 6=F, 7=G and 8=H.

You started with a 350 Series+ 8 which means the coil on cylinder 8 is coil H. You flipped with cylinder 1 which shows a coil defect A. This means the defect followed the coil from H turning into A.

If it had been a plug problem it would have been a 300 Series like 301 for the first cylinder and 302 for the second, etc.

Test the coil, from 1 top contact to the bottom plug contact should be 10,000Ohms.

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You didn't post your engine size so please pick the correct one:


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3.8L (VIN C, 1, L and K) Engines Firing Order: 1-6-5-4-3-2 Distributorless Ignition System


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Olds-built 260, 307, 350, 400, 403, 455 V8Pontiac-built 265, 301, 350, 400, 455 V8Engine Firing Order: 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2Distributor rotation: Counter-clockwise


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Chevrolet-built 267, 305, 350 V8Firing Order: 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2Distributor rotation: clockwise


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