Same problem!! i have the same problem and same spec car, ive replaced the coil (wich the ignition amp is built into) the distributor (which the crank sensor is built into) and the dizzy cap and rotor arm, the plugs the leads and the fuel pump relay and it still does it, im baffled by it!!

what you should have in the electronic distributor is an ignition module with a coil outside wired to the distributor. The ignition module creates the pulses needed for the coil to generate extreme high voltage . If that coil is incorrect voltage for the system then it is most probably overheating and failing to work. There are to voltage coils that can be used . One is a straight 12 volt coil that starts and runs on 12 volts and the other is a start on 12 and runs on 7.5 volts with the run circuit going through a resistor or resistor wire . Check out which coil should be in your car and if correct (7.5) check the voltage to the coil with a multimeter and it be should read 7.5 volts when the ignition is in the run position

ignition will trigger if signal from crank sensor, with hei spark plug tester ,read to coil wire and spark plugs wire if spark , depends wich engine
if c3i coil and module the module could be the problems you can check it before replace
hope it helps

Now you found out replacing parts isn't
how to resolve vehicle problems

Get a wiring diagram for the system your
working on & learn how it works ,so you
can actually test it & resolve the issues

First does the rotor turn when cranking engine?? possible timing chain is out or stripped gear..are you sure it has no spark??did you verify this with a high output spark tester ? did you spray starting fluid in the tbi unit ?

Often, modules and sensors are not the problem, rather the wiring that connects them. Check wiring attached to each of the items mentioned to see if signals are being transmitted to and from them according to factory specs. (specs are often difficult to acquire) Also check fuses. Not so sure about the 99 Avenger but most vehicles to not determine spark timing soley from the cam shaft positioning sensor, rather the crank shaft positioning sensor. Also, the ignition coil on late model vehicles are nortorious for failing because of heat cracking the plastic housing.

Is it cranking at all? If it is, the next to check is crank shaft position sensor

any chance it was the timing belt that let go or crank sensor?

Found this wiring diagram. Voltage for the coil comes from ignition switch, the ignition power transistor/ignition module controls the ground for the coil. My info says you crank and cam position sensors are built into the distributor. Sorry, I know very little about a Mitsubishi, I can't help you diagnose.

The coil is built into the distributor, along with the cam sensor. When one of these wont start and it has fuel pressure, the first thing you need to check is the timing belt. You do this by aligning the timing marks on the crank and camshaft. If the cam timing is good then the number one failure item is the distributor. Like I said the coil, and cam sensor are built into the distributor and they are not sold separately. The next most common failure item is the crank sensor. It is located in the top of the bell housing. Most of the time one of these engines quits the distributor is the reason. Ebay is a great source for these, the price is much better than any where else I have found.

Remove the distributor cap, so that the rotor is visible. Have an assistant turn the ignition to crank the engine over. If the rotor does not turn when the engine is cranking, then you need a timing belt or chain.

If the rotor does turn, then replace the coil.