Question about 2002 Mini Cooper

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A/C and heater blower stopped working - fuses seem to be ok.

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  • 285 Answers

Sounds like the blower resistor might have burned out,dont know where it is on those though,hope this helps a little

Posted on Sep 05, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: blower motor does not work

I had the same problem, replace, replace, replace. Check, check and recheck. What I found was the blower motor resistor, located in the blower squirrel cage area, two prongs and a curly wire, was bad. Took the new one back, (it ohmed out okay, continuity ok, all ok!) replaced it with another, and Bingo, problem solved. Frustrating to say the least. After two relays and a blower switch, and test, test and retest. It was a faulty resistor. Made in Mexico. And no guarentee, even though new, it works. Trial and error. Even the dealer parts are Honcho en Mexico. Thanks NAFTA. You gonna make us all welfare babies.

Posted on Sep 28, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: fan blower stopped working

I had the same problem and Ia m working to resolve it.
You need to remove the blover under the glove box it's very easy to remove. 1) remove the glove box, 2) the metalic suport that it's hold by 4 screws and finally remove the 3 screws that holds the blower. Take it off and remove the coverplate of the motor ( 2 screws) and
check the brushes. In my case they were worn out. So you need to buy a new motor with the blower aprox $50 or try to replace the brushes.

Posted on Jan 19, 2009

  • 6 Answers

SOURCE: 2001 honda civic a/c blower does not work nor does compressor

you could have a bad relay. Try googling the location of the blower relay in your particular make and model.

Posted on Aug 27, 2009

  • 18 Answers

SOURCE: Heater Blower won't work

There was a bulletin reguarding water contaminating the blower motor, which overheats the blower resistor and renders it inoperative. The fix was to replace the blower and the resistor and seal the culprit hood cowl screw at the base of the windshield, which is the second screw from the passenger side. They say water drips off of it down into the fresh air opening.
Here's what I'd do: Assuming your switch and blower motor is good, replace the blower resistor. Remove the blower motor and see if it spins without any excessive drag. If it's okay, reuse it. If it's dragging, it will overheat your new resistor in a short period of time and you'll be back at square one. The blower resistor is mounted to the front of the case with 2 screws to the left of the blower motor. Remove the glove box and you'll see it.
The Hood cowl screw is straight down into the cowl, the second one from the right side, about 10-12 inches from the right fender. Pull it out, put some sealer on it, and reinstall it.

Posted on Oct 02, 2009

sscullys
  • 984 Answers

SOURCE: Carina E L Reg. my heater blower has stopped

If the engine compartment fuse #105 is OK, next 2 items are :

1. Blower motor relay. This is in the same fuse block as the flasher, under the dash, about in line with the steering wheel column. It should have a cover on it, so it will be black, and hard to see.
368d5c5.jpg

When you pull it, you can bypass the control panel operation of it, by jumpering the normally open contacts ( show below with the red line )
848af8d.jpg

If this does not work, the next thing to check is the blower motor resistor, mounted in the blower duct on the passenger side :
2a8cd18.jpg

The right hand side of the picture, is the passenger side kick panel where the fuel inertia switch is at. The wiring pigtail shown goes to the blower motor resistor, which is towards the left / driver's side.

The resistor usually goes out, with only the high speed part working, but you could have a case where all are out ( seen it happen before ).
The black wire in this harness should go directly to ground ( check with a meter to the ground lugs behind the passenger side kick panel ).
A loose / missing ground to the blower motor resistor will also give the same symptoms of a blown resistor pack.

Posted on Nov 30, 2009

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1 Answer

No Power to Heater


by heater i take it you mean the blower motor.these work on a fuse and or relay and a set of resistors.but start by checking the fuse as you said you have no poower.if the fuse is ok then check for power at the plug on the blower motor, you will have to disconnect the plug at the blower motor and have a tester placed on 12 volts to perform this test.turn ignition to the on position and turn on the heater unit,you should have a reading of some kind .if you have up to 12 volts then the wiring and fuseare ok. the problem then would be the blower motorbut after removal you could always check the motor by hooking it up to a 12 volt power source to see if it turns.

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Check fuses, there may be more than one fuse that controls the blower motor. If fuse is OK, then check relays (somewhere in a box). If relays and fuses are OK, then check (some dashboard dissassembly required) if voltage is getting to the blower motor. If there is voltage present, then suspect burnde blower motor, or if motor works only at full speed, then suspect a burned resistor in the blower motor assembly.

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