My electronic key would not open the passenger door last night, but would open drivers door. Then got home and wouldn't lock. Managed to lock is manually as it was late and raining! This morning all electrics have failed - no lights on dash, key fob light works so not that battery, no central locking.
VW are quouting £50 to diagnose it then maybe a £1,000 bill.
It is 4 days out if warranty from the garage I bought it from abd only just out of 3 year VW warranty.
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I have this on a Passat 1998 model and it's frustrating, im at the point where all 4 doors wont unlock and the 2 front ones work with the key but need to be closed with the key again.The boot opens and closes with the remote.I removed and cleaned all four door barrels when they opened intermitently and under the passenger side footwell is the ecu for the windows&alarm which i removed and cleaned as well as soldered 2 dry joints.If i activate the fob i hear the relay in the ecu click and double click to lock and the boot lock works which indicates the electrics are ok.Doing a google there are 1000sssds of queries with passat/vw door lock problems and the main cause is dry solder joints in the door lock mechanisms in the door.I found out from the main dealer when replacing my bootlock(the old one was damaged in a theft attempt) that a new modified part was available and the same for door locks????leading me to believe this is a widespread problem.The only thing is to remove the door parts and inspect the catch and circut board for dry joints.This link may help you. http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1542461 copy and paste this into your browser or google the website if you dont know how.
My 1998 passat done the same, try remove the drivers side window/childlock control on the armrest and clean the multipoint switch as that got my drivers side door opening/closing on the fob as well as the passenger rear door unlocking and working again as it was deadbolted and would not open inside or out.
On the driver's side door handle, there is a cap covering the key hole on the right side. On the bottom of the cap is a small ****. Use the valet key to pry it up and off. Then you may open the door, most likely sounding the alarm, so you will need to insert the remote in the ignition to stop the NOISE!!!! Hope this helps. This is how I lock my remote away when I go somewhere to run.
Well I suspect that you may have developed a problem in what's called the Multiplex unit. It's an integral part of the fuse box in Honda CR-V's. It's possible that the cargo trailer caused the problem by causing too much current to be drawn thru the system, I have a similar problem with my 2002 Honda CR-V and have been told I need to replace the multiplex unit and they are quite expensive. You may have to bite the bullet and have it checked by your nearest Honda Dealer.
something came off inside your door,remove the panel and look for a plastic rod connector either off or broken.If it is off go get a new one their very cheap.
The other thing is the door lock actuator could be bad,you will know when you get inside,work the all the electric do dads and watch the motor react.
check the fuse 3rd along 3rd down.its a 10amp minifuse.if thats ok chances are you have a water leak in to passenger footwell that has corroded the splice that feeds the convenience control unit .if fuse is ok let me know and i can give you more info.