Question about 2000 GMC Jimmy
No, its not a hard job to do at all. Let's first determine thats the problem. Go out and pump up your brakes with the engine off. While your foot is still on the brake pedal, start the engine and your pedal should start to fall as vacum assist is cretaed in the booster. If this is happening your booster is not bad. Even if it dosn't, before you replace your booster ther is also a vacum check valve on the front of the booster that can go bad. Take the valve out of the booster and see if you can only blow through it one way, if so it's good and you will be replacing the booster. The hardest part of the booster is room and under the dash work. First remove the master cylinder, sometimes you can just unbolt from booster and leave lines hooked up and push out of way, depending on room. If not remove the brake lines and remove master and set to side. Nexte you will climb under dash,disconect pedal rod from peddale and remove the four nuts that mount booster to firewall. Climb out grab booster and remove. Installl in reverse order and be sure to bleed the lines of air if you remover master cylinder.
Posted on Sep 04, 2009
It should when you push the brake pedal but only for a second or 2. if idles up and stays up then yes its bad, start,push pedal, and put ear under dash and you should hear it **** air. its not too bad, unbolt the master cylinder, has braided steel lines going to abs modulator, flop forward outa the way. undo vacume hose, then go under dash, take out rod to pedal pin, 4 nuts, and pull it out of the firewall. you do not need to bleed brakes if you do not undo a hydraulic line and be delicate with brake light switch on the pedal
Posted on Sep 04, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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