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While an electrical fault or a faulty switch could put the light on, it is such an important light it should never be ignored and the reason for it established immediately. As far as the owner is concerned that means lifting the bonnet and checking the oil level and adding more if the level is low. If it isn't low the car should be recovered to a repair shop. Driving further could be very expensive and very inconvenient...
If the oil pressure light has switched on because the oil pressure is low then continuing to drive will soon wreck the crankshaft bearings or cause crankshaft or camshaft seizure. Damage happens so quickly if the oil pressure is lost at motorway speeds the engine is likely to be severely damaged by the time the car is stopped.
I strongly suggest you have the reason for the light switching on established and repaired.
After the obvious, checking the oil level, the next step is to remove the oil pressure sensor and connect an oil pressure gauge. It sounds like you have already done this, so on to other things.
Try changing the oil filter in case it has a weak overpressure valve (meant to pass oil if the filter becomes blocked).
Some Camrys of this era suffered engine sludging, and if this has occurred it may have partly blocked the oil pickup in the sump.
After that suspect a faulty overpressure relief valve in the oil pump, or even a worn pump (this is rare in a 2007).
Worn big end and crank bearings will cause low oil pressure, but if that has occurred you would normally notice the engine burning oil (blue smoke). This and the oil pickup can be checked by dropping the sump, best done on a hoist.
Well,this is usually caused by low freon pressure,and goes away when the car has freon added.Is it possible that you only got one can in there when you needed TWO or THREE? I mean,it CAN happen on an OVERPRESSURE of the system(too much freon),but it's rare. The last thing is that the switch could be bad(low-pressure cut-off switch). If the pressure is checked with gauges and is within parameters, the switch might be bad. There is also the possibility if it shows out of range pressures, that the dryer tank or orifice is plugged. don-ohio (:^)
If you fill it with freaon after evacuation the first charge at the pressure of the can is enought to close the switch if not theres a leak or something eles is wrong, The low side switch being crossed will speed things up but is'nt recomended as the freaon can freeze up as it forced charged and overpressure and hose or condender failure is'nt worth the faster speed of charging. A freaon charging station will fully charge the system without even starting the car.
Why did it blow up...corrosion or overpressure.? If it was overpressure you need a new oil pump too.
If it was corrosion you need someone to check to see if the oil filter mount is okay to receive a new cooler and 'O' ring.
Usually the 'O' ring gets hard and cracks letting oil escape. 'O' lives between the oil cooler and filter mount. Most shops can do the job and cost depends where you are but assume around $200 or so labour and same for parts .. I did one recently and job ran $290.00 but I didn't need to check oil pressure or change oil pump because 'O' ring had split.
Common problem with oil cooler is internal corrosion and oil and coolant mixing.Results in Mayonnaise on the dip stick and oil filler cap..corrosion is caused by infrequent coolant changes and/or wrong coolant or too little coolant antifreeze.
The newer vehicles don't have radiator caps. There is an over
flow resevour next to the radiator, typicaly heater hose size hoses
going to and from it. On the top of this there is a overpressure cap
that will relieve any extra pressure, this will be where you would
refill the system at.
Weird, usually the pressure cut out switch, if you manually "bridge" this (only briefly say 4 secs) the a/c should work, sometimes a plugged/blocked condensor or evaparator will cause this . Also look at engine related temp switches, example water, as these are designed to overide and turn off the ac if the car gets too hot etc.
2) ? oil level in compressor (seized??)
3) temp switches,
4)double check that the system is not blocked, coz if it is then the compressor will only go briefly and then stop due to "overpressure"