Question about 2004 Jeep Wrangler

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I just bought a 2004 jeep and got ready to take the hard top off and can not get the wiring plug in the the left rear corner to disconnect. What is the trick to disconnecting it?

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Plugs do this a lot. try spraying just a small amount of lubricant on the plug, let it sit for a couple of minutes, then try to disconnect it. but, when you do, before trying to pull the plugs apart, push them firmly together, then pull. this will usually break them loose from each other.

Posted on Sep 04, 2009

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How to fix 1999 jeep grande Cherokee Laredo left blinker won't work


Check the fuse for it on the fuse panel, the cover usually has a sticker indicating the purpose of each fuse, if that isnt the problem then check your wiring and blinker light female and male end plugs

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I just put on a hard top on my 2004 wrangler and the plug is differnt from the one that came with the top, top came off a 1999 sahra


You will need to find a plug for a 2004 hardtop and splice it into the wiring harness for your 1999 top.

Mar 19, 2011 | Jeep Wrangler Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How do you take of the dash paneling to install a new aftermarket cd player?


  • Disconnect the negative battery cable from the Jeep Cherokee battery with the 10 mm wrench.
  • 2 Remove the five screws on the top edge of the dash panel with a Phillips-head screwdriver.
  • 3 Pry the trim panels surrounding the climate control knobs away from the dashboard with the trim panel removal tool.
  • 4 Remove the trim panel that surrounds the headlamp switches (located to the left of the steering column) with a trim panel removal tool.
  • 5 Remove the two screws behind the trim panel that surrounds the headlamp controls with a Phillips-head screwdriver.
  • 6 Pull the dash panel that surrounds the stereo and covers the instrument panel of the Cherokee, away from the dashboard by hand.
  • 7 Remove the two screws from the stereo mounting bracket. One screw is on the bottom left corner, the other screw is on the top right corner. Each screw can be removed with the 10 mm socket and drive.
  • 8 Pull the factory stereo from the stereo mounting dock.
  • 9 Disconnect the stereo wiring from the back of the factory unit.
  • 10 Connect the Jeep Cherokee factory stereo wiring to a wiring harness adapter. Connect the wiring harness adapter leads to an aftermarket stereo. Slide the aftermarket stereo into the stereo mounting bracket and replaced two screws at the opposite corners with the 10 mm socket and drive.
  • 11 Replace dash panel that stretches across the top of the steering column.
  • 12 Replace the two screws at the top of the headlamp control switch. Replace the trim panel around the headlamp switch.
  • 13 Replace the trim panel that surrounds the climate control knobs.
  • 14 Replace the five screws on the top edge of the dashboard with a Phillips-head screwdriver.
  • 15 Replace the negative battery cable over the negative battery terminal and tighten the cable to the negative lead post with the 10 mm wrench



  • Dec 24, 2010 | 2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee

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    I have a hard top for a 1990 jeep wrangler and it has a rear defroster and wiper. This might be a dumb question but should there not be controls for these and if so where at. I have a chiltons book for it...


    So the Jeep has a hard top....... or you bought a hard top to put on your Jeep that originally did not come with a hard top. You can forget Chiltons for good info. If there is no switch, the wire harness may/should be there, so you need to install a switch and relay. The harness ends up at the left tail lamp area. The relay is up above the parking brake pedal. 5 wires. Brown. Brown/White, Black/Yellow, White/Black, and Black (ground) The harness should be there to connect a rear wiper switch in the dash.

    Dec 10, 2010 | 1990 Jeep Wrangler

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    How to wire a jeep wrangler for towing behind a motorhome using a 7 way rv connector . the jeep has three wires, brown, green and yellow. green and yellow are turn signals, I am having problems with the...


    I tow my 2005 Jeep Wrangler behind my motor home. I installed a Jeep trailer towing wiring kit to the rear lights. the bought a long trailer wiring kit and ran it from the front of the Jeep to the Jeep tralier wire plug. Pluged it in and pluged the other end into the motor home trailer light recptacle. I used only four wires plus ground. There is probably a way you could tap into the wiring harnes under the hood but not having a wiring diagram this is the best I could come up with and all lights do work. You can buy a test plug with led lights that plugs in both male and female, real handy for checking connections.

    Jan 09, 2010 | 2004 Jeep Wrangler

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    My problem is that the center high mount stop lamp on 2004 jeep wrangler does not come on when brake lights are lite. I have already replaced the bulb to no avail. do you have any suggestions?


    Probably a short in the wire or perhaps the fuse (check under hood). If you've every removed you high mount tire rack unit, sometimes the plugs where it connects may become loose as those clips are made of plastic. Check the fuses first before taking things apart.

    Oct 25, 2009 | 2004 Jeep Wrangler

    1 Answer

    2004 jeep liberty replacing the starter


    2004 Jeep Liberty 4WD 3.7L MFI SOHC 6cyl
    Starteer - Removal & Installation

    2.4L & 3.7L Engines
    1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
    2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
    3. Remove the starter mounting bolts.
    4. On the 3.7L engine, the left side exhaust pipe and front driveshaft must be disconnected.
    5. Disconnect the starter solenoid harness connections.
    6. Remove the starter.
    To install:

    8222c5e.jpg

    Fig. Starter mounting: 2.4L engine

    1ab95e7.jpg

    Fig. The starter position for the 3.7L engine
    1. Connect the starter solenoid wiring connectors.
    2. Install the starter and torque the bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
    3. On the 3.7L, the left side exhaust pipe and front driveshaft.
    4. Install the negative battery cable and check for proper operation.

    2.8L Engine
    1. Disconnect and isolate negative battery cable.
    2. Raise and support vehicle.
    3. Disconnect solenoid wire connector from solenoid terminal
    4. Remove battery cable from stud on starter solenoid.
    5. Remove 3 starter mounting bolts.
    6. Remove starter from transmission bellhousing.
    To install:
    1. Position starter motor to transmission housing.
    2. Connect battery cable solenoid terminal wire harness connector to connector receptacle on starter solenoid. Always support starter motor during this process. Do not let starter motor hang from wire harness.
    3. Install battery cable eyelet terminal onto solenoid B(+) terminal stud.
    4. Install nut securing battery cable eyelet terminal to starter solenoid B(+) terminal stud.
    5. Refer to torque specifications.
    6. Position starter motor and install 3 bolts. Tighten 3 bolts in this sequence: top bolt, bottom bolt, middle bolt. Refer to torque specifications.
    7. Lower vehicle.
    8. Connect negative battery cable.

    Also can review the Service Repair Manual for Jeep KJ Liberty

    I really hope help you with this (remember rated this help) Good luck.

    Oct 04, 2009 | 2004 Jeep Liberty

    1 Answer

    Brake light and turn signal light not working


    Did the new lens come with new sockets? If not damage may have occured there that you cant see. only other possibilty is wiring damage in the rear that may be hard to see. The condition you describe is simple "backfeeding" if you look hard enough youll either find bad sockets or damaged wires close to the lens that took the hit. Hope this helped. Thanks

    Apr 06, 2009 | 2004 Jeep Liberty

    1 Answer

    Sparkplugs are due for replacement mazda tribute v6


    Get all your tools ready and a few styrofoam cups to keep the bolts organized and labeled for re-assembly. Have a pencil and tablet handy for notes while doing the take-down. Forgive me if I can't name all the parts. I'm not a mechanic but I was able to successfully replace all six plugs. The key is to keep track of each part you pull & replace it in the reverse order. Number the cups with a marker 1,2,3,4,5.

    You'll need a metric socket set,
    a spark plug socket and a deep 8mm socket
    A flat/slot bladed screw driver will also be handy.
    A roll of tape to use as labels

    In short, here are the abbreviated steps:
    Disconnect the battery
    Remove the engine cowling
    Disconnect the throttle cable(s)
    Remove the ribbed air intake hose
    Disconnect the two black wire sockets on the throttle intake
    Disconnect the two wire sockets at the top-left of the engine
    Disconnect the three hoses in the back/center
    Disconnect the solid pipe (saucer on top) on the right side of the manifold
    Disconnect the instrument which is behind the solid pipe/saucer
    Disconnect one hose from just in front of the master cylinder (brake fluid reservoir)
    Remove four long screws at the corners of the manifold
    Loosen eight screws keeping the manifold in place (these are captive)
    Remove the manifold
    Remove each screw holding the spark plug caps in place
    Remove each of the spark plug caps
    Remove and replace each of the spark plugs

    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    Now the more descriptive version:
    Disconnect the positive terminal on the battery and set it off to the side. This is primarily for safety reasons.

    Remove the three nuts from the cowling, pull it and set it aside with the three nuts in cup#1. You'll see the three forward spark plug caps now but WAIT until you have the back three also viewable.

    Find the throttle cable(s) on the top and the throttle itself with a circular spring. Rotate it counter-clockwise to slacken the cable and disconnect it, and the secondary line/cable it is attached to. I don't know what the heck it is but it's plastic so be careful not to snap it. Remove the three screws keeping the throttle cables attached to the manifold and keep them in cup#2. There is one short gold colored screw on the left bracket and two longer silver colored screws on the right bracket. Flip the throttle cable up and to the left to get it out of the way.

    Next, pull the ribbed air intake hose by loosening both the screw clamps and pop-out the sensor line on the top of the hose
    Pull the larger end down and rotate it toward you to remove. Again, set it safely aside.

    Since the ribbed hose is near the throttle body, go ahead and disconnect the two wire sockets from the throttle body. They'll be immediately to the left of where the ribbed intake hose attaches. These are easy to access when the intake hose is off but tricky while it's still installed.

    Disconnect the two wire plug sockets (one black, one gray) at the top-left of the manifold. Once the sockets are separated, use the flat screw driver to pry/nudge the plastic retainers from the holes keeping the sockets attached to the manifold. Otherwise they'll snag when pulling the manifold.

    Disconnect the three hoses on the rear-center of the manifold and label these with a piece of tape as L-C-R. One each for Left, Center, Right.

    Disconnect the solid pipe (looks like a saucer on top) on the right side of the manifold by removing the two bolts keeping it's bracket in place. Keep the bolts in cup#3. The Pipe will pull slightly away from the manifold but you will NOT be able to completely pull it out. It will stay in place and you'll eventually see the total length after the manifold comes off. There is also a small gasket around the pipe; leave it in place and tape it down for safekeeping while you're working. Remove the tape when you're reassembling.

    Disconnect the instrument behind the solid pipe. (Sorry, I don't know what it's called) First remove the front bracket bolt and put it in cup#4. The rear bolt is a combination set and is a little tricky. Remove the outward nut first and again use cup#4. Next use a deep metric socket to remove the remainder of the bolt and use cup#4. Basically this is a bolt with a permanent nut in the middle and uses a second nut on the end to retain two different parts. You'll see what I mean. This keeps 3 pieces in cup#4 but they all go to the same place.

    Next, look to the top-right of the engine and find the master cylinder. (This is where you would add brake fluid if needed). You'll see a hose running from just in front of this area (NOT on the master cylinder itself) down to the manifold with a plastic clip on top keeping it attached. Depress the clip and disconnect the hose.

    Now you're finally ready to tackle the intake manifold itself. There are 12 bolts keeping this in place (8 short captive bolts that won't come off, and 4 long bolts with small captive washers).
    Look around the manifold top and locate the bolt heads. Use a socket with extension to loosen each bolt. You'll soon determine which bolts in the corner will come out. The other eight will NOT lift out and have larger washers.

    Gently lift the manifold up, to the left and toward the front of the car. Make sure to check that nothing is still connected and keeping it in place. Watch the solid pipe, on the right, slide out of the manifold and be sure the gasket doesn't get lost! Carefully, place the manifold off to the side.

    You should now see both the front three and the rear three spark plug caps, with six rectangular holes in the top of the engine. BE CAREFUL NOT TO DROP ANYTHING DOWN THESE HOLES!!!!! It would be a good idea to cover these up with duct tape while you're working on removing the caps, bolts and finally the spark plugs.

    Unclip the ignition wires from the plug caps. Then remove the bolts retaining the caps and place these in cup#5. MAKE SURE NOT TO DROP ANY DOWN INTO THE CYLINDER HOLES.

    Pull up the caps slowly with firm force. Do NOT **** them. Some may be stubborn to come off so use steadily increasing force until they pop off the spark plugs and come freely out of the recessed holes.
    You'll need a very long socket extension to reach the spark plugs. Replace the plugs with the platinum tipped variety. I doubt you'll want to go through all this again soon to save $10 on parts.

    That's IT! Now work backward, replacing or reconnecting parts in the reverse order as you pulled them. Cross each item off as you work backward. Remember to reconnect the battery terminal and test start the car.

    Tada !!!! You've just saved yourself a costly maintenance cost and are good for another 100k miles.

    Dec 28, 2008 | 2004 Mazda Tribute

    1 Answer

    Hard top wiring


    I'm guessing that the top and Jeep are 2 different years.
    You need to go to a salvage or junk yard to find the same plug and cut the other one off and splice in the one you buy from the junk yard.

    Oct 13, 2008 | 2003 Jeep Wrangler

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