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ELECTRICAL PROBLEM WHILST THE VEHICLE IS BEING DRIVEN ON A LONG RUN. THE ALTERNATER IS CHARGING 14 VOLTS THE RADIO AND REV COUNTER PACK UP WORKING. THE CAR WILL TICK OVER BUT RUNS LUMPY UNDER ACCELERATION AND HAS NO POWER TO PULL AWAY WHEN CHECKED THE BATTERY IS FLAT.

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May I can put a nail in this one for you.The problem is your alternator. The proper charge rate is 13.6 to 14.2v Now get this. The higher the voltage, the lower the amps.Voltage @ the 14.2 end is moving the minimum amps. @ 15 v there os no charging happenning. Go to the other end and you'll find at 12v the alternator is puring the coals to the battery Alt @ max output. The difference between 12 and 13 / 14 and 15 is the is like a buffer. If the alt charges @ less than 13v for any length of time, It goes poof because of excessive heat.which is an indicator the battery is possibly ready to go poof also. Alt. function as a source of maintenance charging when deman is low and a compensator when demand goes up. That is why a low cranking amp battery is for lawnmowers and people that like buying batts and alts.Now, solution! Have your battery load tested. Chances are real good that it is not up to par. Hence, overworked alternator. If so, replace it. 650 to 850 cold crank amps rating . (cca ) Then have your alt tested output checked if you you end up with a new batt. If your alt puts oout in the given range, which should be around but not below 13v) After starting, it will charge heavy to make up for the cracking, but should get up around 13.6v within 15 seconds. Alts charge at all speeds, unlike generators of old which needed speed (rpms) to put out power. Alts do all the thinking and have internal regulators. Well anyway, You didn't ask for a course in Automotive electrical just a course of action. Remember, Battery first ten alt. Good luck. Any autozone or checker parts store can do all that checking for you. -Ned-

Posted on Sep 04, 2009

  • cambroserv
    cambroserv Jan 10, 2013

    My alternator does not charge even when i change the it and the battery. It just not charging. I frustrated because i just bought and engine (want my car to drive)

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1998nissan sendra doesn't charge but the battery light goes off when i start the engine when I remove bartery terminal engine stop running


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There are two main possibilities here.

1) The battery is flat because it is no longer holding a charge. The ability of a battery to retain a charge will diminish over time. In this case a replacement battery is needed.

2) There is a problem with the alternator which is not supplying charge to the battery when the vehicle is running causing the battery to be drained over a period of time.

You can test for both of these using a multimeter and this is very easy to do.

1) With the meter set to the DC scale and attached to the terminals of the battery (Red lead to Positive, Black to Negative) and with all accesories turned off - you should have a reading above 9.6 volts. If the reading is less than this the battery is faulty and needs to be replaced.

2) If the reading is above 9.6 volts, you need to get the car running in order to test your alternator. You will need someone to rev the engine whilst you connect the meter to the battery. With the engine at a fast idle, and all accessories off, the voltage on the meter should read around 14 volts (13.5 to 14.4) showing that the alternator is producing a reliable charge.

Anything less than 12 volts with the engine running means the alternator is at fault and it is the alternator that needs to be replaced not the battery.

You can also test with accessories on (heater, lights etc,,) The reading should still remain around 14 volts with these extra drains on and the engine at fast idle. Anything less is an indicator of a faulty alternator being the cause of your problem.

Hope this helps. Thanks for using FixYa.

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