Question about 1989 Chevrolet Camaro

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How do you run the serpintine belt if you remove the a/c and smog pump

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That's a good one. You are obviously doing a re-modification. There are no easy answers to this unless the guy was right there and scratching his head and figuring it out for himself. You first would need to take a piece of string and wrap it around all available pulleys to find out how long the belt would have to be and then go to the parts store with the most knowledgable staff and have them help you. Yeah, you're right, I didn't really answer your question, but I took the time to type this didn't I? Now, please take the time to rate my answer.

Posted on Sep 04, 2009

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Go to a parts store and see if you can find aa/c bypass pulley assem. for your car. If they offer ot it will be made by motormite/dorman. If not, the best trick it to take a piece of good quality string and run it through the pulleys(making the path you think it should go), and at the end, tie it off and take it to a parts store and let them match it by the total length of the string. they will tell you how many ribs it has. good luck

Posted on Sep 04, 2009

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Sadly if you remove those parts you cant run the belt because there is a route for it to go, which is on those parts. I dont have A/C anymore but have to keep them because of the belt.

Posted on Mar 21, 2013

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1 Answer

Can the belt that runs the smog pump be bypassed


I do not think so since I believe that there is no smog pump. On mine (LX) one belt goes to the power steering (which can be removed if you want to steer without power assist) and the other goes to the water pump and alternator. When I bought my car it was this way, and I have passed several emission tests as is.

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given you have replaced this pump and it is assumed to be new, your 2005 has a serpintine belt set up so isolation via removal of belt per unit makes noise solving troublesome. It is possible to use a mechanics stethoscope to isolate your noise, but these are hard to come by, accepting no responsibility here for advise followed for injuries or damage,,,you can if, " VERY very careful" do the same thing with a long wooden dowel placed on the suspect unit AWAY from the moveing belt pully/wheel, and then on the area of your ear that is closest to the hing of your jaw, you will hear it if that is the problem,, sometimes with the serpintine system thee ideler's and the belt tension idlers that you use to remove and replace the belt have worn bearings in them creating audible sounds that seem to come from the power steering. One other suspect is a worn brush set in your alternator to commutator running in a worn track on the commutaor. If you Know it's the Power steering pump drain/ and remove and return for replacement.

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How to remove a/c belt on compressor so i can put serpintine belt on


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I have a mazda 626 and it overheat on me and also my timing belt is lose can a timing belt cause a car to overheat and shut down


as the timing belt usually turns the water pump yes it is possible. i am not sure what motor you have in this but i would think you ar elooking at your serpintine belt as your timing belt is behind plastic covers and is not visable. maybe your serpintine belt runs the water pump and as it is loose then it will not spin the water pump causing it to overheat

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I need to replace the smog pump on my 1991 dodge dakota. I looked at the all of the pulleys etc. and can not find which component that I need to loosen and pivot in order to loosen the belt so I can...


If you have the 3.9 V-6, when looking at the engine as you stand in front of your truck. The smog pump is on your right. You will see one bolt running from the front to the rear of the smog pump on the left side. The bolt is about where nine o'clock would be on it if it were a clock. The bolt is a through bolt, and acts as the pivot. It must be loosened and completly removed.
On the right side, at the three o'clock position you will find the adjustment bolt. It comes from the rear of the smog pump to the front bracket. You will see that it does not have a regular looking nut. But, insteed what I call a trapped nut. A design that stops turning when tighten, or loosened by coming into contact with a part, or bracket. After you remove all of the related hoses, etc. the bolts can be removed allowing the smog pump to be removed. Installation is done in the opposite order. The v-belt is also tensioned by "swinging" the smog pump upward.

Don Fitzpatrick Washington, Ok.
Oklahoma Trailchasers 4X4 Club.

Dec 01, 2010 | 1991 Dodge Dakota

1 Answer

I need an exploded view of water pump replacement


Not too difficult of fix. You'll need to remove the serpintine belt. Drain the radiator. Remove the pulley from the water pump ( I believe three 10MM bolts) After removing this pulley you'll have access to all of the bolts holding in the water pump (I believe there are 5 or 6 8MM bolts) Reverse on install. No need to over tighten on the replacement pump as it has an o-ring seal. Take special care in reinstalling the serpintine belt. I'd get a bit of help to help hold the belt in place as you go.

I hope this may have assisted you, please let me know.

Thanks,
Tom

Apr 18, 2010 | 1996 Plymouth Voyager

1 Answer

Squealing Smog Control Belt in Humid Climate


I will list some of my experiences with similar problems.

V-belt quality and grade vary a lot and I do mean a lot. Belts can take a set from sitting--anybody with a table saw will attest to this. I would try a new belt first after finding a good parts man. A good alternator shop (rare today) can help here. The smog pump belt is an easy one to change. Try the cheap stuff first.

Smog pumps in my experience do not need a lot of power, especially at idle, but I have had bearing and pump failure on several wipe out a belt. Pull the belt and spin the smog pump by hand.

Belts can glaze and it is not necessarily noticeable. Stamped-steel pulleys polish smooth and won't transmit the power needed. Pulleys can also wear in some strange shapes so a new belt does not fit properly. See if an alternator shop has a cast iron pulley for the alternator. Cast iron does not polish smooth and also wears off any glaze from the belt surfaces. The crank pulleys are stamped-steel but are larger in diameter with a longer wrap angle so slippage is not a problem there.

In my poor days I tried sanding the belts and pulleys to remove the glaze. Too much work and it was only temporary.

I have used a cast iron pulley on a 110 amp alternator with a winch load. A stamped-steel pulley would just smoke the belt when under load (winch drew 225 amps total!). My truck is 70 amp and that is the biggest alternator Ford has with a V-belt that I know of.

I considered removing my smog pump and associated hardware. My experience has been to leave everything intact unless I can replace everything with an earlier, non-smog engine. Doing everything piecemeal has just caused other problems.

Hope this helps.

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