a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
# 4 cylinder is the middle cylinder on the right hand bank, as seen from the drivers seat. Left bank has 1, 3 and 5 (from front to back) and right bank 2, 4 and 6.I would first swap the coil with an other cylinder and see if the fault follows. If it does, then you know that the problem must be with the coil. If it doesn´t, then obviously it is not the coil. You will need then find out if there is spark and fuel. You could have a sticking valve due to carbon buildup on the valve stem. A seafoam treadment could help in that case.
ok did you check to see if the spark plug wire is good and if it is good take out the spark plug and put it on the spark plug wire that its not firing on if it fire at the spark plug then you should do a compression test if the compression is bad you may have a burn valve or something and that would be what causing the misfire
Compression, spark , timing , fuel for any engine to run. Don't forget a stopped up catalytic convertor will have the same effect as you described. Backfiring of course is fouled plugs, bad plug wires, look for arcing from wires when it is dark outside. If it has a distributor check for cracked cap, had my 91 GMC start backfiring then die due to ignition module inside distributor going bad. It would start back up after it cooled for about 10 minutes.
A smog check/diagnostic at a reputable shop should reveal any catalytic converter problems. As far as random cylinder firing, there are several things which might present problems. I will list a few for you to consider:
1. Engines with higher mileage often have carbon deposits built up on the piston,valves, cylinder head,etc. When hot from running, these deposits can result in unexpected detonations of combustion chamber.
2. Condition of spark plug wires: old wires may "leak" meaning allowing current through the insulator. Also, sometimes wires run parallel to each other for a distance can create inductive firing out of order.
3. Spark plugs with deposits can cause detonation out of sequence.
4. Valve lash out of specification or worn cam can allow hot gases to detonate chambers. Sticky valves/guides may not be seating (closing) properly.
HAD THE SAME PROBLEM WITH MY DAUGHTERS CAR---CHANGED THE SPARK PLUGS AND OIL IN THE HOLES OF THE SPARK PLUGS WIRE TOPS--- CHANGED THE VALVE COVER GASKET AND ITS BEEN CLOSE TO 4 MONTHS AND NO OIL AT ALL IN HOLES---IF YOU LOOK AT THE GASKET YOU CAN TELL IT LET THE OIL OUT---THE GASKET SITS INSIDE THE VALVE COVER VERY SNUGLY--THE OLD ONE WAS VERY LOOSE---AS FAR AS OIL GOING INTO THE SPARK PLUG CYLINDER IT WILL BLOW WHITE SMOLE FOR ALITTLE WHILE BUT EVENTUALLY BURN OFF---HOPE THIS HELPS---DENNIS
It's related, The connecting rod pins may have gotten damaged and needs to be replaced. The knock you are getting sounds like the piston slap due to the connecting pins being damaged and the piston is moving around the cylinder walls and connecting rod. When the spark plugs wire was crossed the wrong spark plugs fired while the piston was still on it's way up the cylinder as to having it fire on the way down. This will cause stress to the valve's, piston, connecting pins, crank shaft, and main bearings. In short all the internal lower moving parts to an engine. Good Luck and have a compression test on all the cylinders and the one that is damaged will be the lowest compression reading.
Have you measured the compression? Very low compression can be the reason. And the reason for low compression can vary - broken compression ring, worn valve/valve seat... You are sure you are getting a spark, just before the spark plug, right? Have you checked the timing of ignition?
does not fire where? at the plug? have u checked the wire, cap..hmmm..77 ..how many miles on that motor? have u done a compression check? could be burned valve, fouled plug bad wire worn cap and or rotor ..check the obvious first. start at the plug..if it's not firing, swap it for a known good one.. if it doesn't fire, swap the wire, if it still doesn't fire swap cap and rotor..if that doesn't solve or identify where the bad component is.or if you find you have fire at the plug but still misses on the cylinder.... start looking inside.. run compression check... if it's low squirt oil in cylindeer and check again.. if it comes up drastically.. it's worn rings..but if it stays low probably worn valves. but i'm thinking its somewhere between the distributer and the plug.. good luck...
If you have a mis-fire in your pistons, you need to change your spark plugs. And you might as well change your spark plug wires. Spark plugs can run you about... anywhere from $2 - $90. Take a trip to Advanced Auto Parts. You can get spark plugs for about $7 dollars a piece. With a 1.4 L engine you only have 4 pistons. Spark plug wires will run you a little bit more. Not sure. They are different for every car so im not sure