Question about 2002 Volkswagen Golf

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Have it hooked on the studs but cannot get it to

Have the luggage rack bars hooked on the studs but cannot get it to tighten when you remove the end caps there is a long bolt threaded into a cage type nut i assume this somehow tightens it but i cannot figure out how, yor help would be greatly appreciated when you pull the rubber seal off the edge of the roof with the doors open there are two torx head studs front and rear on each side of the car that the bars hook to they are hooked on these studs but i cannot get the brackets on the luggage rack to tighten it is a factory installed rack on a 2002 vw golf

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Are there consumer complaints about the wind noise caused by the overhead luggage cross bars?


You won't know whether you'll have a problem with wind noise until you try it. I've driven 4 rack-equipped vehicles over the years. The only rack that made noise was the dealer-installed rack on an old vehicle, and that was ONLY during cold, misty weather (drizzle or very thick fog). What this shows is that wind noise can be a very finicky thing, as far as what causes it. That also means that if it occurs, you can probably come up with a trick to change the air flow which will stop it from happening (I've heard of tricks as simple as a spiral wrap of rope around the cross bar stopping wind noise, but I bet every situation is different). None of the other racks, including the boat rack for Subaru`s, which used 2x4s for the cross bars, made any noise that I could hear. In fact, the auxiliary rack for my current car (only used when needing extra width for two boats) also uses 2x4 cross bars, and it makes no noise.

I wouldn't use factory cross bars. There might be some good ones out there, but I haven't seen them. The general rule is to go with aftermarket bars, as well as the necessary bar-mounting hardware.

Some people love fold-down J-hooks, but since it only takes 30 seconds to remove them and about one minute to install them, why not just take them off, leaving bare cross bars? I take them off when not needed. I even take them off when parked by the river during a trip. After all, if I can remove both of them in 30 seconds using just my hands, so can a thief. Anyway, a folded-down J-hook is still a very bulky item to have up there compared to a bare cross bar.

Same goes for saddles. It takes only a moment to install or remove them, so if you want to keep air resistance to a minimum or not worry about the potential for wind noise, just drive with a bare rack when not carrying boats.

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Fix back spare wheel case under boot


Put your head under the rear of the vehicle, near to the back of the car in the centre you should see a threaded bar with a hook on it. This should hook onto the back edge of the wheel rack. The length of the bar is controlled by screwing the threaded bar from inside the trunk with the wheel nut wrench. If it's not broken, it was not tightened up enough, it traps the spare wheel between the rack and the boot floor. When it is tightened up the bar should lock against the hook end to stop this happening

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STeering wheel is loose and noisy while steering. Sounds like something broke inside.


This might help to understand the steering linkage: REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Fig. 1: Steering linkage used on the Bronco and 4-wheel drive F-150 84928067.gif
Fig. 2: Steering linkage used on the 4-wheel drive F-350 84928070.gif
Fig. 3: Steering linkage used on F-Super Duty chassis/cab 84928071.gif
Pitman Arm EXCEPT F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS AND MOTOR HOME CHASSIS
  1. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
  2. Disconnect the drag link at the Pitman arm. You'll need a puller such as a tie rod end remover.
  3. Remove the Pitman arm-to-gear nut and washer.
  4. Matchmark the Pitman arm and gear housing for installation purposes.
  5. Using a 2-jawed puller, remove the Pitman arm from the gear.
  6. Installation is the reverse of removal. Align the matchmarks when installing the Pitman arm. Tighten the Pitman arm nut to 170-230 ft. lbs. (230-312 Nm); torque the drag link ball stud nut to 50-75 ft. lbs. (68-102 Nm), advancing the nut to align the cotter pin hole. Never back off the nut to align the hole.
F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS MOTOR HOME CHASSIS
  1. Matchmark the Pitman arm and sector shaft.
  2. Disconnect the drag link from the Pitman arm.
  3. Remove the bolt and nut securing the Pitman arm to the sector shaft.
  4. Using a 2-jawed gear puller, remove the Pitman arm from the sector shaft. To install:
  5. Aligning the matchmarks, slide the Pitman arm onto the sector shaft. If the arm won't slide on easily, use a cold chisel to spread the separation. NEVER HAMMER THE ARM ONTO THE SHAFT! Hammering on the arm will damage the steering gear!
  6. Install the nut and bolt. Tighten the nut to 220-300 ft. lbs. (298-407 Nm).
  7. Connect the drag link.
Tie Rod and Drag Link EXCEPT RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE
  1. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
  2. Remove the cotter pins and rust from the drag link and tie rod ball studs.
  3. Remove the drag link ball studs from the right-hand spindle and Pitman arm.
  4. Remove the tie rod ball studs from the left-hand spindle and drag link.
  5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the nuts. This will avoid wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the nuts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm). Always use new cotter pins.
  6. Have the front end alignment checked.
RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE
  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.
  3. Remove the nuts connecting the drag link ball studs to the connecting rod and Pitman arm.
  4. Disconnect the drag link using a tie rod end remover.
  5. Loosen the bolts on the adjuster clamp. Count the number of turns it take to remove the drag link from the adjuster. To install:
  6. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Install the drag link with the same number of turns it took to remove it. Make certain that the wheels remain in the straight-ahead position during installation. Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the nuts. This will avoid wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the adjuster clamp nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). Tighten the ball stud nuts to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
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Connecting Rod RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE
  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.
  3. Disconnect the connecting rod from the drag link by removing the nut and separating the two with a tie rod end remover.
  4. Loosen the bolts on the adjusting sleeve clamps. Count the number of turns it takes to remove the connecting rod from the connecting rod from the adjuster sleeve and remove the rod.
  5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Install the connecting rod the exact number of turns noted during removal. Tighten the tie rod nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm); the ball stud nut to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
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Tie Rod Ends RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE Fig. 4: Remove the cotter pin from the castellated nut at the ball stud 88288p02.jpg
Fig. 5: Remove the nut from the ball stud 88288p03.jpg
Fig. 6: Use a tie rod end puller tool to remove the ball stud from the Pitman arm 88288p04.jpg
Fig. 7: Liquid correction fluid makes excellent paint to mark the threads of the tie rod end 88288p05.jpg
Fig. 8: For a more accurate reinstallation, you may measure the tie rod end prior to removal 88288p06.jpg
Fig. 9: After having loosened the nut, unscrew and remove the tie rod end 88288p07.jpg
  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
  3. Remove the ball stud from the Pitman arm using a tie rod end remover. NOTE: Optional: paint a mark or measure the length of the tie rod end threads to ease reinstallation in as close to the original position as possible.
  4. Loosen the nuts on the adjusting sleeve clamp. Remove the ball stud from the adjuster, or the adjuster from the tie rod. Count the number of turns it takes to remove the sleeve from the tie rod or ball stud from the sleeve. To install:
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  6. Keep the wheels facing straight-ahead and install the ball studs. Tighten the nuts to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm). Use new cotter pins.
  7. Install the drag link and connecting rod.
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1 Answer

Replace broken sway bar for a 1996 ford windstar


Section 04-01: Suspension and Wheel Hubs, Front 1996 Windstar Workshop Manual REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Stabilizer Bar Removal
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  1. stw~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: To avoid damage to the 6 mm drive hole in the front stabilizer bar link ball stud, do not use an Allen wrench to break loose or tighten or final tighten the front stabilizer bar link-to-shock absorber nut.
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  1. Using care not to damage the front stabilizer ball link stud seal, remove the RH and LH front stabilizer bar link-to-front stabilizer bar nut.
  1. stw~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Use extreme care not to damage the ball joint boot.
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Installation
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  1. Lubricate inside diameter of new stabilizer bar bracket insulator with Rubber Suspension Insulator Lube E25Y-19553-A meeting Ford specification ESF-M99B112-A or equivalent. Do not use any mineral or petroleum based lubricants as they will deteriorate the rubber stabilizer bar bracket insulators.
  1. Install new stabilizer bar bracket insulators onto front stabilizer bar and position them in approximate location.
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  1. stw~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: To avoid damage to the 6 mm drive hole in the front stabilizer bar link ball stud, do not use an Allen wrench to break loose or tighten or final tighten the front stabilizer bar link-to-shock absorber nut.
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  2. 66a0f1a.gif

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1 Answer

I need to remove the luggage racks from my 2007 Hummer h2 SUT


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1 Answer

What tool would i need to remove cylinder head bolts on a 93 ford escort gt


Hi
A cylinder head removal tool is provided for removing the cylinder head from the engine block of an engine.The tool comprises an elongated bar made of tool steel with means for bolting the bar to the cylinder head and for mounting pusher bolts which can be tightened down onto exposed threaded ends of frozen studs holding the cylinder head. As the bolts are tightened down onto the studs the cylinder head is gradually lifted upward free from the studs.
Thanks for contacting fixya.com

Nov 05, 2009 | 1993 Ford Escort 4 Door

1 Answer

Power steering going bad,need info about rackard pinion


you can buy remanufactured at parts store or buy used from car-part.com. page with * is lowest cost.

It's a pretty big job for a novice.

here's 96 taurus steps with 3.8l engine. don't have 94. should be similar

Removal
SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED Tool Number Description T94T-6000-AH Exhaust Connector Holder Tool T57L-500-B Bench Mounted Holding Fixture
  1. Disconnect negative battery cable.
  1. Position steering wheel one-half turn to right and lock wheel.
  1. Position steering column boot out of the way. Remove pinch bolt retaining steering column intermediate shaft coupling to power steering short rack and separate.
  1. Disconnect PCV vent tube and vacuum supply hose from clean air tube. Loosen two hose clamps retaining clean air tube and position out of the way.
  1. Disconnect power steering auxiliary actuator and power steering pressure switch.
  1. Remove two heat shield pushpin retainers from power steering hose bracket and remove heat shield.
  1. Remove one retaining bolt from left turn pressure hose bracket.
  1. Position drain pan under steering gear.
  1. Remove power steering pressure and return hoses from fittings on power steering rack. Position both hoses out of the way. Disconnect rear HO2S connector at steering rack and position out of the way.
  1. Partially raise vehicle.
  1. Remove front wheel and tire assemblies.
  1. Remove LH upper stabilizer bar link retaining nut and position link out of the way.
  1. Loosen LH tie-rod jam nut. Remove cotter pin and tie-rod retaining nut at lower control arm. Using tie-rod end separator or equivalent, remove tie-rod from control arm and from steering gear.
  1. Loosen RH tie-rod jam nut. Remove cotter pin and tie-rod retaining nut at lower control arm. Using tie-rod end separator or equivalent, remove tie-rod from control arm and from steering gear.
  1. Raise vehicle.
  1. Remove drain pan.
  1. Remove two steering gear retaining nuts at front subframe.
  1. Install Exhaust Connector Holder Tool T94T-6000-AH on flex tube.
  1. Remove bolts, nuts, and gasket from where flex tube and converter Y-pipe connect. Separate tube from pipe.
  1. Position Rotunda Power Train Lift 014-00765 or equivalent with wood blocks approximately 1016 mm (40 inches) in length (secured to lift) under subframe and raise.
  1. Remove two rear subframe retaining bolts and lower subframe approximately 102 mm (4 inches).
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  1. Remove two bolts retaining power steering hose bracket to short rack and remove bracket.
  1. Mount steering gear assembly in Bench Mounted Holding Fixture T57L-500-B.
  1. Remove four clamps retaining bellows to steering gear and tie-rods. Remove bellows and power steering gear rack tube.
  1. Position rack and pinion steering gear so several steering gear teeth are exposed. Hold steering gear with adjustable wrench on end teeth only, while loosening inner tie-rods. Remove tie-rods from steering rack. Remove steering rack from bench-mounted holding fixture.
Installation
  1. Mount new steering gear assembly in Bench Mounted Holding Fixture T57L-500-B.
  1. Position rack and pinion steering gear so several steering gear teeth are exposed. Hold steering gear with adjustable wrench on end teeth only, while tightening inner tie-rods. Tighten to 90-110 Nm (66-81 lb-ft).
  1. Apply Steering Gear Grease C3AZ-19518-A meeting Ford specification ESB-M1C119-A to groove in connecting rods where tie-rod bellows clamp to front wheel spindle tie-rod and uniformly apply to inner diameter of bellows. Install bellows and gear rack tube onto short rack.
  1. Install new inner and outer bellows clamps.
  1. Remove steering gear from Bench Mounted Holding Fixture and place on bench.
  1. Install power steering hose bracket and retaining bolts at top of steering gear. Tighten to 9-12 Nm (80-106 lb-in).
  1. Install steering gear retaining bolts in steering gear housing and install short rack through LH wheel well.
  1. Position steering rack and retaining bolts through subframe. Raise powertrain lift until rear subframe contacts body and install retaining bolts. Tighten to 135-195 Nm (100-144 lb-ft). Lower and remove powertrain lift from vehicle.
  1. Install power steering short rack-to-subframe nuts. Tighten to 97-132 Nm (72-97 lb-ft).
  1. Install new gasket, bolts and nuts at converter Y-pipe and flex tube. Tighten to 34-46 Nm (26-34 lb-ft).
  1. Remove flex tube holder.
  1. Partially lower vehicle.
  1. Install LH jam nut and outer tie-rod to inner tie-rod. Install tie-rod to steering knuckle. Install retaining nut. Tighten to 47-63 Nm (35-46 lb-ft). Install new cotter pin.
  1. Install LH stabilizer bar link and retaining nut. Tighten to 76.5-103.5 Nm (57-76 lb-ft).
  1. Install RH jam nut and outer tie-rod to inner tie-rod. Install tie-rod to steering knuckle. Install retaining nut. Tighten to 47-63 Nm (35-46 lb-ft). Install new cotter pin.
  1. Install tire and wheel assemblies. Tighten to 115-142 Nm (85-105 lb-ft).
  1. Lower vehicle.
  1. Remove old Teflon® O-rings from pressure and return hoses. Install new Teflon® O-rings on pressure and return hoses.
  1. Install power steering pressure hose and return hose to fittings on power steering short rack. Tighten to 33-41 Nm (24-30 lb-ft).
  1. Install one retaining bolt to left-turn pressure hose bracket. Tighten to 9-12 Nm (80-106 lb-in).
  1. Connect rear HO2S connectors, power steering auxiliary actuator, and power steering pressure switch electrical connectors.
  1. Position heat shield at power steering hose bracket and install pushpin retainers.
  1. Install clean air tube, connect PCV vent tube and vacuum supply hose, and tighten hose clamps. Tighten to 2-3 Nm (18-27 lb-in).
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  1. Fill and purge system.
  1. Check operation.
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1 Answer

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