93 jeep grand cherokee limited 4.7 ltr. replaced crank sensor, replaced #3 coil module, replaces ecm, continues to burn out crank sensor.
came in with no start condition. after changing crank sensor threw #3 misfire code, replace coil which was burnt out (huge crack in side of coil), coil burnt out ecm, replaced ecm had it flashed at dealership, drove till it got hot and burnt out crank sensor. warantied out crank sensor put in the new one, same. ran till it got hot and burnt it out. got 3 techs workin on this problem and we are all at a loss.
I don't have an answer to your problem but being the "weak link" (as evidenced by failure frequency of crank sensor) I have often wondered about why this seems to be so common in what should be a low voltage application. I would take a good look at battery and charging system condition to see if for any reason the output to the electronics at one point spikes or is generally too high.(it doesn't take much to burn out a fine wire coil) Poor grounding can also cause burnout from additional resistance. Personally, though I don't like adding components to already complex systems, I have always believed that computer electronics should be protected by some kind of surge protection as home computer systems are.(not just by fuses, which react too slowly to brief voltage changes.) Hope you find the cause and post it here...What you find may shed some new info on an old (but most often more infrequent) problem.I don't have an answer to your problem but being the "weak link" (as evidenced by failure frequency of crank sensor) I have often wondered about why this seems to be so common in what should be a low voltage application. I would take a good look at battery and charging system condition to see if for any reason the output to the electronics at one point spikes or is generally too high.(it doesn't take much to burn out a fine wire coil) Poor grounding can also cause burnout from additional resistance. Personally, though I don't like adding components to already complex systems, I have always believed that computer electronics should be protected by some kind of surge protection as home computer systems are.(not just by fuses, which react too slowly to brief voltage changes.) Hope you find the cause and post it here...What you find may shed some new info on an old (but most often more infrequent) problem.
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? 6:24
www.youtube.com/watch?v=7D0vUEDSwXo May 12, 2013 - Uploaded by Robert DIY
Replaced the crank sensor on this 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee.... to replace my crankshaft position sensor on my 1998 grand cherokee laredo.
Oct 27, 2013 - Uploaded by WeekendHandymen
hi , do you think if I replace crank sensor will solve the problem ,my jeep .... Where's the crankshaft located in 99 jeep grand Cherokee laredo .
TO REPLACE SPARK PLUGS YOU REMOVE COIL PACK MOUNTING BOLTS THEN REMOVE THE COIL PACK WITH BOOT OVER THE SPARK PLUG.YOU HAVE 6 INDIVIDUAL COIL PACK TO EACH CYLINDER. YOU NEED A 3/8 RATCHET WRENCH - LONG 3/8 EXTENSION -SPARK PLUG SOCKET - SPARK PLUG GAUGE.AND TORQUE WRENCH.THE 2000 MODEL JEEPS FUEL FILTER INSIDE THE TANK.1993 - 1996 MODEL JEEPS FUEL FILTER LOCATED LEFT SIDE OF THE VECHICLE NEAR THE FUEL TANK.
no spark..well you might wanna start with spark plugs & coil.If not than check the control module if it working and it giving a signal..you can check it by cranking the car n watch the RPM if it moving while starting..if not moving than you might have a bad module or a bad crank sensor...those are a piece you looking...don't worry about the cam sensor....it had nothing to do with starting...good luck
I would be thinking that there is a good chance that you need to be checking out replacing the computer, if you aren't getting any communication with the proper scan tool then the computer isn't communicating with anything in the vehicle...... I would have guessed first off that the ignition control module might be bad but that is obviously part of the computer also, I would be looking in that direction.
If you did not replace the CRANK sensor on the back side of the motor this most likely is the problem and a very common one at that.this controls spark and injector pulse,unlike the cam sensor which just shows when #1 cilyder is up.
Check voltage at coil. Check coil output (spark should be healthy even at 1/4" away from ground). If OK, then change module The only testing on module is with a special tool. Therefore if contacts are clean, that's all you can do with it!
I don't have an answer to your problem but being the "weak link" (as evidenced by failure frequency of crank sensor) I have often wondered about why this seems to be so common in what should be a low voltage application. I would take a good look at battery and charging system condition to see if for any reason the output to the electronics at one point spikes or is generally too high.(it doesn't take much to burn out a fine wire coil) Poor grounding can also cause burnout from additional resistance. Personally, though I don't like adding components to already complex systems, I have always believed that computer electronics should be protected by some kind of surge protection as home computer systems are.(not just by fuses, which react too slowly to brief voltage changes.) Hope you find the cause and post it here...What you find may shed some new info on an old (but most often more infrequent) problem.
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