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Since you are sure the fuse is ok, check the horn relay. it's usually located on the main fuse box in the engine compartment, or on some models it's located in the fuse box under the dash.
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Sorry but it is non - serviceable , location smart junction box ! If the relay were bad you would need to replace the smart junction box . Is the air bag light lit ! ( possible clock spring ) Inspection and Verification
Verify the customer concern.
Visually inspect the following for obvious signs of mechanical or electrical damage.
Could be a short in the steering wheel or column. Or a faulty horn relay. You may need a wiring diagram to trace the circuits from the relay. Usually the black wire is the ground and the green is voltage from the relay.
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Subject: How to check an inoperative horn
Customer's exact description:...the horn on my 1995 Buick LeSabre does not work...how to fix? Here's how it's done: Step 1. Start with the pre-check: Do a Thorough Visual Inspection Do a thorough visual and "hands-on" underhood inspection before starting any diagnostic procedure! You can find the cause of many problems by just looking, thereby saving yourself a lot of time.• Has the vehicle been servicedrecently? Sometimes things getreconnected in the wrong place, ornot at all.• Don't take shortcuts. Inspect connectorsand wiring which may be difficult tosee due to location. Step 2. Instructions: One. Remove the horn relay and check for battery voltage at the relay connector terminals.
If battery voltage is present at both terminals, go to Two.
If battery voltage is not present, check the ORN wiring and the relay fuse for circuit.
Two. With the horn switch depressed, measure voltage from the relay terminals. Wear hearing protectors, if someone is assisting you and depressing the horn switch while you're under the hood.
If voltage is present, go to Three.
If battery voltage is not present, check the black wire for an open circuit; check the connectors for proper terminal contact; check the in-line connector for proper terminal contact; check the spring loaded contact, slip ring, and horn switch for an open circuit.
Three: Connect a fused jumper from relay connector terminal 30 to terminal 86.
If the horn does not sound, go to Four.
If the horns sound, replace the horn relay.
Four: Disconnect the the suspect horn connector. Connect a fused jumper from the suspect horn terminal B (dark green) to the positive + battery terminal.
If the horn sounds, check the wiring to the horn relay for an open circuit or short to the ground.
If horn doesn't sound, check the black wiring for an open circuit, if OK, then replace the horn.
Inspect the following components, in this order (with key off) until you get it working:
** Disconnect the plugs from the Horn terminals. Run separate jumper wires from the Batt (NEG & POS), to the horn. If horn does not work, then replace horn. If horn works fine, then continue....
** Check fuse # 10 (15A), in the Battery Junction Box - replace if defective. Check horn operation.
** Check Horn Relay (also in the Battery Junction Box) - remove the relay, give it a gentle tap, and plug back in. Check horn operation.
If all the above prove ok, then the fault lies in your steering wheel/horn switch assembly.
Yes, if a car doesn't have a working horn, it would, in most if not all states fail a safety inspection.
If you hear a click, then it could be the relay clicking or the horn trying to operate. Likely, it's just a bad horn or a bad ground connection at the horn relay.
I would take the vehicle back to the repairman and ask about the horn and repairing it, or have the inspector who failed it repair it for you.
Horns go bad on cars due to corrosion or non use over time. I've had a few go bad on motorcycles which were even stored in a garage. Opened one up one time and found rust on the contacts that made it not work or oscillate to make a sound that is audible.
I think that you could locate the horn, and see if all of the wires are physically there, and try a test light to ground it out, as horns should always have power (as long as the battery is charged up) whether or not the ignition is on.
If you ground out one or the other terminals with a test light, at the horn, then it should beep.
If not, then the horn itself is bad.
Replace with new.
It is really that simple.
I have a 1997 Cadillac Deville that wasn't used for a while and the horn went bad on it and it was replaced as one of the items required for Pennsylvania State Inspection.
Principles of Operation
When the horn switch is depressed, a message is sent from the instrument cluster via the network communication link to the front electronic module (FEM). The FEM acknowledges the message and energizes the horn relay by grounding the horn relay coil which allows the dual note horn to sound. Inspection and Verification NOTE: The FEM and instrument cluster must be reconfigured upon replacement. Refer to Section 418-01 .
Verify the customer concern by operating the horn.
Visually inspect for obvious signs of mechanical and electrical damage.
If the concern remains after the inspection, connect the diagnostic tool to the data link connector (DLC) located beneath the instrument panel and select the vehicle to be tested from the diagnostic tool menu. If the diagnostic tool does not communicate with the vehicle:
check that the program card is correctly installed.
Look for your hood latch its located near the floor on the drivers side at the bottom of the dash. Look up under the dash and there is the fuse panel. Look for any burnt fuses because it could work off of another fuse. Horn should be visible though for you to replace it.
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