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Replaced for first time within last 6 weeks, remounted and some new parts during that, then totally replaced again this past Saturday with a different brand strut. If you watch the spring while turning the wheel it sounds like the sound comes from where it meets the wheel well, and you can see the spring jabber/vibrate. Professionally replaced by big franchise shop. They also do brakes, tires, etc so you'd think they'd clue in to maybe a different problem.Replaced for first time within last 6 weeks, remounted and some new parts during that, then totally replaced again this past Saturday with a different brand strut. If you watch the spring while turning the wheel it sounds like the sound comes from where it meets the wheel well, and you can see the spring jabber/vibrate. Professionally replaced by big franchise shop. They also do brakes, tires, etc so you'd think they'd clue in to maybe a different problem.
Tie rod was replaced in between strut replacements. Same noise before tie rod, after tie rod, and after second set of struts. It is going to the dealer though. PITA!Tie rod was replaced in between strut replacements. Same noise before tie rod, after tie rod, and after second set of struts. It is going to the dealer though. PITA!
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No, Paul, those are three different areas, or things. The tie rods connect to the wheel spindle that the tire is mounted on. That is for steering. The link rods connect the sway bar to each side of the front end- these are high wear items, often replaced.
The third: now the "strut tops" being noisy, this should be of concern to you, insofar as what are they doing about that? Ask them if that means replacing worn struts (quite an added expense), or checking the security of the top mounting-like loose bolts or nuts. I would want specifics on what exactly they mean. The strut tops are where the two front struts mount on the car frame, and usually found under the hood on each side, like 3 nuts holding the top of the strut, and the bottom of the strut is attached to the wheel spindle or wheel knuckle, same thing. So the strut at the wheel, moving up and down, strut absorbs the shock and diminishes it by a solid mounting to the frame- the strut tops. Hope this helps you understand a bit.
Open the car hood. If you have a factory stereo system installed you need to now the security code t reactivate the sound. Remove the negative cable from the battery to prevent the air bags from popping.
Use a pair of wheel chocks behind the rear wheels. Use a car jack to raise the side of the car you will work on. Take off the wheel by loosening the lug nuts.
On the wheels wells in the engine chamber use a socket and ratchet and remove the grommets and upper strut nuts. Also disconnect the brake hose bracket and ABS sensor wire from under the car.
Again take the socket and ratchet to loosen the pinch bolt and nut located on the upper control arm, which you will remove from the wheel knuckle. When the pinch bolt goes through you must not pry open the slotted area. Use a socket and ratchet and remove the strut assembly.
Place a spring compressor on the coil spring and tighten it enough to relieve the pressure from the spring cap. Using a socket and ratchet remove the center nut from the strut rod. Remove the spring cap, coil spring and spring seats from the strut. Place the coil spring on the new strut along with the new spring seats and spring cap.
Place the center nut on the strut rod and tighten it. Take off the spring compressor form the coil spring. Install the strut on the Audi and mount the upper control arm with the wheel knuckle.
Connect the ABS sensor wire to the strut. Attach the brake hose bracket to the strut and tighten the nut. Install the three upper strut nuts in the engine compartment and tighten them. Cover the nuts with grommets. Place the wheel on the Audi and tighten the lug nuts with the lug wrench.
CV joints will only click when the wheel is turned. Normally this is due to a torn boot and the grease gets EVERYWHERE in the front suspension. The clicking could also be that you need to bend back your dust shield that goes behind your brake rotor. You could have hit it when doing the strut and it is making contact with the brake rotor. As far as the shaking, this could be a number of different things. I would make sure the rest of your front end it tight. Check the ball joints, wheel bearings, tie rod ends, strut mounts, and wheels.
. Place a set of wheel chocks behind the rear wheels of the Previa. Lift the front of the automobile on the side that you are starting with. Place a jack stand under the Previa and raise it to the frame of the vehicle. Remove the wheel using the lug wrench to loosen the lug nuts. 2Remove the brake caliper by loosening the retaining pins with a socket and ratchet. Secure the caliper out of the way using a wire tie. Do not allow it to hang by the hose. Remove the brake rotor from the wheel. Disconnect the ABS sensor from the strut if the Previa has anti-lock brakes. Sponsored Links Bridgestone PromotionGet Either A Reward Card Or Kindle When You Buy 4 Select Ecopia Tires.BridgestoneTire.com/Promo3Remove the nut securing the brake hose bracket to the strut with a wrench. Disconnect the stabilizer bar link using a wrench. Loosen the two lower bolts on the strut assembly with a socket and ratchet but do not remove them. Remove the cotter pin from the tie-rod end using the pliers. 4Remove the castellated nut with a wrench. Separate the tie-rod end from the wheel knuckle. Remove the top three bolts from the strut using a socket and ratchet. Access the bolts from inside the engine compartment on the wheel well. Remove the bottom bolts and take the strut from under the Previa. 5Place the spring compressor on the coil spring and tighten it enough that the pressure is taken off the spring seats. Remove the center nut from the strut shaft using a wrench. Remove the coil spring cap, coil spring and spring seats from the strut. Put the coil spring on the new strut along with the spring seats and cap. 6Install the center nut and tighten it with a wrench. Place the strut on the Previa and loosely install the two bottom bolts. Connect the top three bolts and tighten them with a socket and ratchet. Tighten the bottom bolts with a socket and ratchet. Connect the tie rod to the wheel knuckle. Install the castellated nut and tighten it with a socket and ratchet. 7Insert a new cotter pin in the tie-rod end and spread it open with the pliers. Connect the stabilizing bar link. Tighten the bolt with a wrench. Connect the brake hose bracket to the strut and tighten the nut with a wrench. Connect the ABS sensor if the Previa has antilock brakes. 8Put the brake rotor on the wheel assembly. Cut the wire tie securing the caliper using the pliers. Place the caliper in the mounting cradle and tighten the locking pins with a socket and ratchet. Install the wheel on the Previa. Tighten the lug nuts with a lug wrench. Remove the jack stand from under the Previa. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
does it kinda sound like two peices of metal striking each other? most likely the outer tie rod end. the inner tie rod end wouldnt make a sound anything like that, it would snap and you wouldnt be able to steer the car very well.....regardless, this is easy to check. remove the wheel. the object directly behind your brakes is the wheel hub, directly behind the wheel hub is the steering knuckle. connected to the steering knuckle you should find the strut up top, a control arm on the bottom, the sway bar attaches towards the front of the car, the outer tie rod end connects to the hub on the side closest to the rear of the car. connected to the outer tie rod end is the tie rod, which is then connected to your power steering rack and pinion via the inner tie rod ends. you want to locate the outer tie rod end and examine it visually. is the rubber cracked, torn, or missing? if so, replace the outer tie rod end. you will need a 2 jaw puller to remove the old tie rod end, but removal and installation is EASY (i taught my wife how to do it in 5 minutes and she did it successfully in less than 10). depending on how far the jam nut is moved when replacing the tie rod, you may need an alignment after replacing it. if the rubber on the tie rod end looks fine, the noise is probably coming from the strut. when the struts are worn out, the strain of the vehicle bouncing is put on the coil over springs. after a while, the spring can become worn out as well.....this would create a "clunking" sound when going over bumps.....and, if the spring wears out too much, you MIGHT be able to hear a metalic popping sound when the struts reach the damper if the spring hasnt expanded that far yet (this is extremely unlikely tho, more likely than not, the spring would crack/break LONG before you hear this noise and the car would be close to undriveable......). regardless, out tie rod ends are roughly 12-15 bucks each and extremely easy to install. you might be able to find a parts store willing to loan you a 2 jaw puller, but if not they generally run 30-35 dollars....DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU DO NOT HAVE A REPAIR MANUAL THE LISTS THE CORRECT TORQUE SETTING FOR THE TIE ROD ENDS. if the bolt isnt torqued propperly, a) your alignment will be off and b) you run the risk of snapping the new tie rod end.
Ford has a technical service bulletin out on this vehicle that may help solve your problem. The number is 04-6-1.
Here is the info:
ISSUE:
Some 2000-2004 Focus vehicles may exhibit a front end creaking, crunching, grinding and/or rattling noise from the front suspension while driving at slow speeds, over bumps, and/or while turning. ACTION:
Noise, vibration, harness (NVH) conditions may originate from many areas. A thorough inspection of the front suspension is necessary to determine the cause. To service, refer to the following Service Procedure and inspect the suggested areas first. SERVICE PROCEDURE
Inspect front strut fasteners and confirm that they are tightened to the correct torque.
Front strut to front knuckle, (one (1) driver / one (1) passenger), 90 N-m (67 lb-ft).
Front strut mount to body, (three (3) driver / three (3) passenger), 30 N-m (22 lb-ft).
Front strut rod to strut mount, (one (1) driver / one (1) passenger), 66 N-m (49 lb-ft).
NOTE:
MEASUREMENT OF TORQUE MUST BE DONE IN THE TIGHTENING DIRECTION.
NOTE:
IN ORDER TO APPLY THE PROPER TORQUE TO THE FRONT STRUT ROD TO STRUT MOUNT FASTENER, A HEX KEY WILL BE REQUIRED TO HOLD THE STRUT ROD IN PLACE WHILE TIGHTENING THE NUT.
Inspect for loose stabilizer bar end links.
Firmly grasp the links and shake them - both along the direction of the link and transverse to the link orientation in the inboard/outboard vehicle direction. If looseness is felt continue on to Step 2b, if no looseness is felt continue on to Step 3.
Inspect the link end joints. If they do not appear severely corroded, torque the nuts (use anti-rotation feature to prevent ball joint damage) to 50 N-m (36 lb-ft), and repeat Step 2a. If links still feel loose after tightening or if the joint shows evidence of severe corrosion, replace the link (YS4Z-5K484-AA).
Inspect for the top spring sleeve coming out of position. This may cause a squeaking noise between the sleeve and indent on the ridge of the upper spring seat, or it may cause a clicking noise between the spring and upper spring seat if the sleeve is completely out of position. If the sleeve is out of position continue on to Step 3a, if the sleeve is positioned properly continue on to Step 4.
Install a new rubber sleeve (1S4Z-8484-AA). Install the new rubber sleeve starting from the top of the spring coil where it contacts the spring plate.
If the noise is a clicking or popping from the front strut, install a service spring end cap (4S4Z-5L302-AA) on to the top spring tip. Reassemble and reinstall strut per the Workshop Manual Section 204-01.
1.Turn ignition to OFF position to place steering column in unlocked position.
2.Remove hub nut
3.Loosen, but do not remove, three top mount-to-shock tower
4.Raise vehicle on a hoist.
5.Remove tire and wheel assembly
6.Move brake caliper and wire out of the way
7.Remove brake rotor
8.Remove cotter pin from tie rod end stud and remove slotted nut.
Discard cotter pin and nut
9.remove tie rod from knuckle
10.Remove stabilizer bar link nut, and remove link from strut
11.Remove and discard lower arm-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt and nut. (A drift punch may be used to remove bolt.) Using a screwdriver, slightly spread knuckle-to-lower arm pinch joint and remove lower arm from steering knuckle.
12.Press halfshaft from hub
13.Remove shock absorber strut-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt. Using a large screwdriver, slightly spread knuckle-to-strut pinch joint, if required, for removal
14.Remove steering knuckle and hub assembly from shock absorber strut
15.Remove three top mount-to-shock tower nuts and remove strut and spring assembly from vehicle
16.Compress spring with Spring Compressor
17.Place 10mm box-end wrench on top of shock strut shaft and hold while removing top shaft retaining nut with a 21mm 6-point crow foot wrench and ratchet
18.Loosen Spring Compressor , then remove top mount bracket assembly, bearing plate assembly and spring.
INSTALLATION
1.Place a 10mm box-end wrench on top of shock strut shaft and hold while tightening top shaft retaining nut with a 21mm 6-point crow foot wrench and ratchet to 53-72 Nm (40-53 lb-ft).
2.Install strut and spring assembly and three top mount-to-shock tower nuts
3.Install steering knuckle and hub assembly to shock absorber strut.
4.Install a new shock absorber strut-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt. Tighten to 98-132 Nm (73-97 lb-ft).
5.Install halfshaft into hub
6.Install lower arm to steering knuckle ensuring that ball stud groove is properly positioned and boot seal is not damaged. Install a new pinch bolt and nut. Tighten to 53-72 Nm (40-53 lb-ft).
7.Install stabilizer bar link to strut and install a new stabilizer bar link nut. Tighten to 77-103 Nm (57-75 lb-ft).
8.Install tie rod end onto knuckle.
9.Install a new tie rod end slotted nut. Tighten to 31-47Nm (23-34 lb-ft).
10.Install a new slotted nut retaining cotter pin.
11.Install brake rotor
12.Install brake caliper
13.Install tire and wheel assembly
14.Tighten three top mount-to-shock tower nuts to 30-40Nm (23-29 lb-ft).
15.Lower vehicle and tighten hub nut to 230-275 Nm (170-202 lb-ft)
16.Depress brake pedal several times prior to moving vehicle.
Your description leads me to believe that the spindle is bent. This is the piece that the tie rod attaches to near the wheel. Sometimes the tie rod is attached to a piece that attaches to the spindle which is rather intuitive. Just remove the tie rod end, unbolt the arm that attaches to the spindle and replace the arm. In this case the only special tool you'll need is a tie rod seperator.
If the arm is a part of the spindle and cannot be removed easily:
1) Put vehicle in park and safety brake on - chock the rear wheels
2) Lift passenger side front wheel and put on jack stands
3) Remove wheel and have a friend apply brake pressure
4) Loosen hub nut with appropriate socket (22 to 35mm)
You can purchase the socket from your local auto parts store
You'll need a large breaker bar, its torqued to about 100ft-lbs
5) Remove tie rod end with a tie rod/ball joint separator
This can also be purchased at your local auto parts store.
Some spindles are made with tie rod end permanantly attached
If it is removable, remove nut and drive the separator tool
between the tie rod and spindle using a large hammer.
It'll eventually break free from the spindle.
6) Remove the strut with a strut spring compressor tool
WARNING - THIS IS VERY DANGEROUS
This can be purchased at your local auto parts store.
Compress spring before removing lower bolts (2 of them).
The strut may be left on vehicle but the spring must be
compressed.
7) Remove caliper and break assembly
Loosen the two slide bolts that go through the caliper assembly
Remove caliper and breaks - let it hang by the tubing
8) Detach upper and lower ball joints with seperator tool as in #5
9) Finally remove the hub nut from #4
The spindle should slide off the axle
10) Repair or replace the spindle and put it all back together in
reverse order using new wheel bearings. Pack them with axle
grease if theyr'e not the sealed type.
NOTE: The tie rod end may need to be replaced also. The vehicle will need a front end allignment. Be sure to torque the hub nut to the manufacturers specifications - at least 75ft-lbs. You should probably replace the wheel bearings.
if it is scraping on the shock chances are that 1 the camber of your right front is way off this could be due to a damaged strut/shock/coil spring assembly are the allignment is way off. one of the first things you do is when you take it to a shop have them show you exactly what is wrong. don't allow them to tell you you need replacement of parts unless they give you a detailed answer and they show you why it needs replacing. On your vehicle you have front wheel drive so the suspension is as follows strut is responsible for keeping the wheels on the ground it also can be adjusted to keep the wheel tilted in or out on the top or bottom this is called camber. you have a coil spring that is intergrated with the shock this is called a strut there is a distinction between just a shock which has no coil spring. this spring keeps the body off the axle this is the only purpose it serves. tie rods are what are attached to your rack and pinion unit this is what steers the wheels. they adjust the wheels at the front or back of the wheel this is called toe in/out if you have wishbones upper and lower there also should be a stablizer bar between the 2 also known as a torsion bar. this is used to add stablization to the whole assembly. you have a front wheel drive vehicle and the axles are also called cv jointed axles thes e have no bearing on your wheel rubbing the strut because they are in a fixed position and cannot be adjusted. thr front rotor assembly does have a sealed bearing however unless you have a severe wobble your hub assembly is not the problem. if the wheel is rubbing the strut either the wheel is toed in to far due to an improper adjustment of the tie rod end or the camber is off due to a bent strut or poor allignment. my suggestion is to take it to a small independant shop and have them do the repair you will save money on parts and labor you will get a good job done and most important if they are a crediable shop they will not try to fleece your pofckets they will explain in detail what the problem is and how to fix it they will show you exactly what is to be done. please rate this thanks
Replaced for first time within last 6 weeks, remounted and some new parts during that, then totally replaced again this past Saturday with a different brand strut. If you watch the spring while turning the wheel it sounds like the sound comes from where it meets the wheel well, and you can see the spring jabber/vibrate. Professionally replaced by big franchise shop. They also do brakes, tires, etc so you'd think they'd clue in to maybe a different problem.
Tie rod was replaced in between strut replacements. Same noise before tie rod, after tie rod, and after second set of struts. It is going to the dealer though. PITA!
have the struts and mounts been replaced before?
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