Replced e-brake pad an rotos and brake pads regular brakes work,but e-brakes wont ,trid to adjust them that didnt work

Without knowing which type of e-brake you have (foot pedal or handbrake), just about ever type of e-brake has two places to adjust it, well, that bears explanation. The one actual adjustment will be near the operator, either under the handle on a hand brake, or above the pedal on a pedal brake. You will notice that there is a long threaded rod with two nuts on it, loosen those and turn them down to pull slack out of the cable which runs to the rear wheels,

Now the other item is not so much an adjustment, it may be just wear on the pads or shoes of the brake itself. Some cars will use the regular braking pads/shoes as the same means for the e-brake, while others have pads/shoes committed to just the e-brake.

I would suggest attempting the cable adjustment in the drivers compartment first, as if this does not work you will be needing either a shop or brake mechanic to open the rear brakes.

yes, it will not fit other wise. the squealer should be placed on the out board side of teh calipar as this pad wears the quickest

Either under the car(look for cables) or the brake pads are wore out if they are separate from the regular brake pads.

Yes, when you replaced pads on the rear brakes you need to readjust the rear brakes. This is usually very simple to do. Find a safe area to back up about 50 ft. You want to start the vehicle backing up then hit the brakes hard to activate the automatic adjusters until the E brake works. Do this about 3 times then try the Emergency brake and see if it holds. If it doesn't repeat the process. The ABS warning probably came on because a rear caliper extended too far so check those and make sure the boots on the ends of the calipers did not come off. If they did, collapse the caliper and replace the boot. In some cases with older vehicles you can actually adjust this manually with a flat screwdriver from the back side of the drum. To do that you want to adjust it until the rear pads make full contact with the drums then back it off 3 to 5 clicks. so the pads clear the drum in normal operation but are close enough to work when you apply the brakes.

because you didnt clean/lubricate the pistons before you replaced the pads they are not able to move back enough to clear the rotors when driving,they should settle down with wear.....( copperslip/anti squeel grease.)

You obviously got air in your lines while you were changing the pads. The brakes now need bleeding. Once you bleed them, your pedal will come firm again. But the good news is that you will only have to bleed the front brakes....Please don't forget to rate this answer for me...

there is an adjustment turnbuckle usually directly in the middle of the vehicle tighten this up to remove the slack its fairly easy and plainly visible on drivers side

Work the caliper piston in and out until it moves freely, otherwise buy a new caliper

did you turn the break setting all the way in when you installed new pads.if you didnt adjust the breaks then your breaks are pushing to far out and not returning properly.adjust the pads with the adjustment usually accesible threw rear side of drums

Bleed the master cylinder first. You have to do that before you belled any calipers or wheel cylinder.