It show Max____Norm____Bi-Lev____Vent____Heat____Blend____Def Cold______________________________________________________Hot 1993 Chevrolet Beauville G30 Van When i Move the Lever to Max__Norm__Bi-Lev__Vent__Heat__Blend__Def no change made what could be the problem? the Cold and Hot Lever not working neither what do i need to replace?
One is the mode switch and the other is the temp control switch. Do this, start the engine then open the hood and listen for a hiss indicating a vacuum leak on the vacuum reservoir or a broken hose going to the heater control the hoses on this vehicle have to be very brittle by now so get some vacuum hose and have at it I think the vacuum reservoir may be mounted to the hood. I hope this helps. Take care. If this isn't it you can use testimonial to contact me with questions.
Testimonial: "where can i buy the mode switch and the temp control switch if i need one?"
it is two wires connected to the AC compressor which one suppose to have voltage on it? it look like a green and black wire. i check for volt on both wire with the key on but i didn't get no reading how do it work?
The dealer or a junk yard.
The black wire is grounded probably to the compressor or somewhere else. The green wire starts at the A/C switch then goes to the low pressure cut out switch mounted on the accumulator or the low pressure lne ( the larger line) there may also be a high pressure cut out switch on the back of the compressor these are 2 wire switches so use a short piece of wire to jumper the terminals together if the compressor runs you may be low on refrigerant. Did you find a vacuum leak?you should do all this with the blower on hgh and the settings on Max Air. Let me know how you're doing, I'll be in and out but I'll watch for your message.
how do i check for volts at these 2 wires?
how do i check for volts at these 2 wires? i havn't check for vacuum leak yet.
A cheap test light (we call it "scope on a rope) is best. Ground the clip side then probe the green wire first at the compressor and if no light check both green wires on the switch on the back of the compressor if you have one or the low pressure switch on the accumulator (the can looking thing) if you have a test light lit on one wire jumper them together to see if the compressor runs.
do i turn the key to on and do i move the control lever on the dash?
Key on set to Max A/C blower on any speed temp on cool, black wire is ground green should have current if not jumper the low pressure switch mounted on the accumulator or the low pressure line (the larger of 2 lines) compressor should run
I just received a notification that you have another question but as much as I try I can’t get the fixya site to tell me what it is. If you do have a question try to repost it. Sorry
when i jumper the low pressure switch mounted on the accumulator the compressor run why it want run unless i use a jumper?
A low refrigerant level will do it, If the refrigerant is good replace the low pressure switch, you don’t have to discharge the system to replace it. Stay cool
what send currant to the Ac comprssor to make it run?
The HVAC switch it’s a light green wire, but I remember something about a brown wire that powers that switch follow it back from the switch to see if it has a burned connector in it.
the control switch on the dash don't have anything to do with the the power to AC compressor?
In my diagram it shows the switch providing power to the low pressure cut out switch on the accumulator and the low pressure switch turns on the compressor so if you have power at the low pressure switch the dash switch is good I’m having a bit of a problem getting messages out did you get my message saying if you jumper the low pressure switch on the accumulator and the compressor runs it’s either low on refrigerant or the low pressure switch is bad. Let me know I know this is slow and you’re probably getting hot. Later
yes i got your message saying if i jumper the low pressure switch on the accumulator and the compressor runs it’s either low on refrigerant or the low pressure switch is bad. i check the pressure it show about 10 to 15 psi i think it hold about 3 LBS of freon will that be 4; 12 OZ can? i will add some freon to see will the compressor run. how many can i should add?
10-15 lbs you found your problem it should be 30-35 lbs. Yes 3lbs is 4 12 oz cans but remember there’s some in it already so don’t overcharge. Stay cool
i add 4 12OZ can of freon and it show 37 psi on the gague i have the quick connect gauge so when i disconnect the gauge it was leaking air out the valve and liquid to is it the freon leaking back out? how do i stop the leak? and don't seem like much air coming through the vents, which position should i put the control lever on Max or vent?
Yes it’s leaking refrigerant. Put on gloves and eye protection then look at the schreader valve it’s like the valve stem in a tire take a small screwdriver and try ti snap the valve until it seals, hopefully it isn’t bent if it is you will have to replace it. That requires emptying the system or you might try screwing the cap on tight, you should have it set on max. With the blower on high Be very careful handling refrigerant it boils at -21 deg. Below zero farenheit frostbite happens fast
if i have to empty the system how do i empty it? i set it on Max with the blower on high no air blowing through the vents there is a vent on the left side of the dash a little air is blown through that vent so how do i fix this problem and what to check? did i put enough refrigerant in?
If you must empty the system you might save money by having a shop reclaim it install the valve stem and recharge otherwise you can dump the charge by loosening that leaking valve and drain it all out and then buy new. NOTE I think you must be working with R-134 refrigerant because you need a license to purchase R-12. If it is R-12 it is ******* to dump it. Yes you put enough in. Does the blower motor run at all speeds? If it does check the mode door cable and door, you should be able to hear a change in sound as the door moves. The mode door is the one that says max A/C norm vent hear def. the accumulator should feel cold to the touch.
is there a tool call A/C and Refrigeration Valve Core Remover/lnstaller with out loosing all the refrigerant? yes i am working with R-134 refrigeration. yes the blower motor run at all speeds i disconnected the cable for the cold and hot and move it in and out with my hand i can hear the door open and close but i don't hear anying change in the sound why? i will listening to see is there a change in the sound again. i tighted the cap on top of the valve with some pliers i don't hear any air can i use some soapy water to see is it leaking?
Yes I forgot about that tool, soapy water is an excellent leak detector. The temp lever is actually a blend door it mixes the hot air from the heater core with the cold air from the evaporator, in reality all the air that gets blown into the car has been dehumidified by going through the evaporator first then it gets mixed by you to a comfortable temp, the door I was asking about is the mode door, can you make it blow out the defroster ducts then the dash vents and finally the floor vents? Sometimes the door breaks free from the shaft it’s mounted to inside the HVAC case. Is the accumulator getting cold?
yes a litle air blow out the defroster ducts and very little blow out the dash vent i don't know where the floor vent is on this van where is it located? there is about 6 or 7 vaccum hoses connected to the mode switch but air is only coming through one of the hoses and it is color tan do air suppose to come through just one of the hose? where do the main vaccum hose connect to that operate the vaccum to the mode switch, defroster ducts, dash vents, and floor vent? can you send me a vaccum diagrams on this vehicle?
I hope this turns out
Did you get it?
yes i got it thanks. I'm looking for the main vaccum hose is it the Tan color?
Yes, it comes from the vacuum reservoir under the hood, they have problems with the plastic reservoir and the hose that comes from the intake manifold and the reservoir I don’t know where the reservoir is but if you can find it start there.
the hose that run from the intake to the vaccum reservoir is brittle but i don't hear no hiss sound.
Check the hard plastic tube that comes from the reservoir to the dash control. I’m amazed to get this message because there’s a problem with fixya but don’t know what it is. Anyway these plastic tubes crack and break but don’t make much noise
i replace a new vaccum hose from the reservoir to the intake now air is blown through the vent on the dash when i,put the control lever on Vent but when i change to Max and Norm no air blow through vent. do the compressor clutch have to be engaged before air blow through the vent when i put the control lever on Max or Norm? i found a brown hard plastic tube disconnect under the hood i don't know where one end connect to but one end of it look like it go through the firewall the control unit on the dash have about 6 plastic tube run to it where do all of them run to from the control unit?
Those tubes go to the various door actuators that brown tube might go to the recirculation door you should be able to locate the other end then splice the tubes together with a piece of vacuum line.
where is the various door actuators located and what it look like?
Does this help?
vaccum is getting to the control unit in the dash seem like the door on the other end not working is this located under the dash? do you have a video you can send me on this vehicle? the black vaccum piece in the picture is that what i need where is it located? i thank you so much for trying to help me.
Just use the blower motor as a reference to locate the actuators
The light outlines represent the heater box.
do i need to remove the glove box to located the actuators and remove it?
I’m not sure, in some cases I’ve had to remove the dash to get to some actuators.
can i connected the AC compressor where it will run at all time and put the control lever on vent so i can get cold air? air is blowning through the vent on the dash when i put control lever on vent.
Yes, locate the A/C pressure switch on the accumulator then jumper power into the light green wire leaving the switch connected, this will turn the compressor on if the refrigerant is full enough to let the system run this switch will let the compressor run normally and it will still protect the compressor.
i add 48 ounce of freon and the A/C compressor run and the accumumulator get cold cool air is blowing through the side vent on the dash when i move the control lever to Max but no air blowing through the two vent in the center of the dash i don't know where the blend door is how much vaccum supose to be on those plastic vaccum tubes that connected to the mode switch? vaccum is getting to the mode switch so if it have a door under the dash the vaccum must not be open that door to let air blow through the two center vent in the dash what i need to do to find the problem? when i check for PSi on my pressure gauge it is between 45 and 55 more closer to 50 than 55 do i have enough freon put in? as i say the accummulator do get cold. i hope you can help me fix the problem.
You have enough refrigerant, you should follow the vacuum tubes from the switch to locate the vacuum actuators then unplug the tube at the actuator and feel for vacuum as you move the mode switch, if you have vacuum and the actuator doesn’t move either the door is stuck or the actuator is bad. If there’s no vacuum at the actuator the vacuum switch is bad.
i recheck the pressure again it had drop from around 50 psi to 35 psi over night why? do i still have enough refrigerant? this van have rear vents to and no air is blown through them either. do the mode switch control the rear air to? there is a control switch on the dash for the rear i check it with a test light the test light didn't light, there is 5 wires connected to it color is orange, brown or tan, blue, black, which one supose to be hot at altime?
Refrigerant is sensitive to temperature so if the outside temp is colder this AM that could be it otherwise you may have a leak, usually in the rear A/C lines. The rear unit is separate from the fron the rear switch orange wire should get hot with the switch on but concentrate on the front unit first
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My guess would be a bad ac selector switch
Climate control.
Max and norm and def should active ac
Air controller switch
Cold/Max...... Of their not working go to Walmart get a recharge kit and see if you need freon.
Testimonial: "i put 48.OZ of freon in i don't think i need any freon the problem I'm having air don't blow through the vents on the dash when i change the control lever to Max/Norm."
Climate control --and remove or look behind under dash for disconnected or power problems
There is most likely a cable that has come off or broken behind the heater controls
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Blend door actuator is bad.its not the resistor cause it would only work on certain speeds not all of them. If it were the motor it wouldn’t do anything at all.
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