1994 f-150 distributor

Hey Troy, I need year--make--model? Any applicable trouble codes?
It depends on your ignition system? If distributor ignition system, have to check distributor--dis cap--rotor--spark plugs--spark plug wires and electrical circuits. If dis ignition, no distributor, but a coil pack, also check electrical circuits. You could have coil on plug ignition or coil near plug ignition. I need more info?

Is the distributor shaft turning when the vehicle is cranked?

No , your vehicle has a coil pack , or waste spark ignition system . All electronic , needs crankshaft position sensor , ignition control module , The plug wires connect to top of coil pack .Go to you tube an check out video on GM type two dis ignition . GM Type Ignition System Troubleshooting Diagnosis and Repair by Wells EM Wells Distributor less ignition system DIS Training with Sgt Tech P0300...

Your video shows not the Distributor cap but the ABS control module. This Honda does not have a distributor. It's a DIS system. ( distributor-less ignition system) to replace plugs look at the rocker covers. In the middle of each cover is the plugs, 3 a side. Pull up on each coil pack/ plug boot combo and you'll find the plug under each

The distributor does have to be removed and dis-assembled in order to replace the ignition pick-up coil/stator, and if the pick-up coil/stator is faulty then the distributor should be replaced because the distributor will come with a new pick-up coil/stator and the old distributor will have to be removed anyway and in the long run it will actually save money from not having to pay a mechanic to remove and dis-assemble the distributor to replace the pick-up coil/stator, however most of the time it is the ignition module inside of the distributor that is faulty.




When the engine is at TDC (Top Dead Center) is the ignition rotor pointing to the #1 position on the distributor housing as described below?



The engine should be set on TDC (Top Dead Center) with the distributor cap removed, and there is a mark or notch on the distributor housing that the rotor should be pointing to when the engine is on top dead center. (Look under the distributor cap and find where the number one terminal runs under the distributor cap, and where that position on the distributor cap corresponds with the distributor housing, and it should match up to a mark or a notch on the distributor housing)

This static timing is all that matters and the computer will be able to control the timing as long as the ignition rotor is in that position when the engine is at top dead center.



If the engine is at TDC and the ignition rotor does not point to the #1 mark on the distributor housing, then loosen the hold down bolt to the distributor and turn the distributor until the rotor is pointing to the #1 mark on the distributor and then tighten the distributor hold down bolt.

There wrere two types of HEI (High Energy Ignition) distributors used by GM in 1985, one was the original design with the ignition coil mounted in the top of the distributor cap, and the second had the coil mounted seperate from the distributor and used a coil wire.

There is the possibility that the ignition coil is faulty and first check to see if full battery voltage is even getting to the "Pos" (+) positive side of the ignition coil when the key is in the "Run" position, and also if the coil is seperate from the distributor that full battery voltage is getting through the "Pos" (+) or positive side of the ignition coil and over to the distributor ignition module, dis-connect the wire connector from the ignition module and if battery voltage is not present at the connector to the ignition module with the key in the "Run" position but it is present at the "Pos" side of the ignition coil, then the ignition coil is faulty. If battery voltage is present then check the ohms between the high tension terminal (where the coil wire goes on the ignition coil) and the "Pos" terminal on the ignition coil by first dis-connecting the wires from the ignition coil and then test with the "Neg" lead from the ohm meter in the high tension terminal on the ignition coil, and the "Pos" lead from the ohm meter to the the "Pos" terminal on the ignition coil, and the ohm reading should be between 6,000 and 30,000 ohms and if not replace the ignition coil. A faulty ignition coil can also damage the ignition module.

The ignition module and the pick-up coil/stator located inside of the distributor is what generates the signal that the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, as well as the signal to run the fuel pump and the dwell signal timing to fire the ignition coil, and a faulty ignition module can cause any one of these systems to malfunction.

That could be a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores. If the ignition module does test out alright then the problem could still be in the pick-up coil/stator, (it can be tested using an ohm meter by dis-connecting the wire connector from the pick-up coil/stator and the ohm reading between the two wires from the pick-up coil/stator should be between 500 and 1500 ohm's, and both of the wires from the pick-up coil/stator should show an open loop or an infinite reading between each wire and ground) and if the pick-up coil/stator is found to be faulty then replace the entire distributor, or the distributor will have to be dis-assembled to install a new pick-up coil/stator.

If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.

To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.

Let me know if you require any further assistance.


GM HEI Ignition Coil (Mounted In Distributor Cap Type)

The pick-up coil/stator is easily replaced in a dodge distributor, and once you have removed the distributor cap and the ignition rotor, then just dis-connect the wire connector from the pick-up coil/stator and lift it straight up and out of the distributor, and the distributor does not have to be removed or dis-assembled to replace the pick-up coil/stator. There are two alignment tabs on the pick-up coil/stator that will match up with the distributor cap when the pick-up coil/stator is properly installed. Here are two images to help assist you.

Coil is Located in your Distributor Cap. Remove the Dist. Cap and look inside on the Top of your distributor cap you'll find 4-small blot heads Remove all 4 And your Coil will Come Out.

Without looking at the diagram on our model Is suspect the pickup in the distributor has gone bad. In the early type distributors the pickups are prone to go bad but ground the wire from the coil to the cap and remove the cap, have a friend turn the engine over with the starter for a few seconds, check that the rotor button is turning !

Not if your just changing the dis. cap, just remember one plug wire at a time as to not get the fireing order wrong.