I have a 07 Durango I replaced the back rotors and pads then the front passenger caliper and both front pads . i have bled 3 big bottles of brake fluid through the lines and I still dont have full brake pedal. What is causing this

Sometimes contaminated brake fluid will cause a flexible brake hose to perish internally and prevent fluid flowing.
This isn't likely to be your problem considering you have bled the brake and probably had a good delivery of fluid. Considering the caliper is new and presumably has a good fluid delivery to it there seems no reason why the caliper doesn't move out and grip the rotor as it should.

I remember a similar problem where the pads were fitted with a strong anti-rattle spring. If the spring was incorrectly fitted it was strong enough to push the caliper piston back...

William, did you use the correct bolt(length), did you check all brackets, sliders, seized caliper, pads for damage, free movement, etc.
Check the attached links,instruction and guides, Good luck
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How To Install Replace Brake Pads and Rotors Dodge Durango Dakota 97 03...

How To Replace the Front Brakes on 98 03 Durango

How To Replace Front Pads And Rotors Dodge Dakota

I think the problem is the brake pad or caliper, brake pad are too thick or the caliper are not good casted.
First try to confirm if you get a right brake caliper ,then confirm the brake disc ,brake pad, if they all ok, tear down the bracket of caliper, put into brake pad, then put into brake rotor.
http://www.fiverhope.com/category-4-b0-Brake-caliper.html

Where to start. . . .
A defective hose would only affect that wheel.
A faulty booster or master cylinder could cause the front wheels to lock and at varied amounts. You may have a metering block or just a junction block for the front lines. It would be mounted near the frame if you have one. Some Ford models from 88 - 92 used a master cylinder with the metering valve built in.
Its possible the front calipers got hot enough with the old pads to damage both front hoses.
I would want to know what it takes to release the pressure on the pads. Do you have to take the hoses loose, or just the bleeder screws on the calipers ? Or are the calipers not sliding back and forth ?

If you have drum brakes on the rear the brakes probably need adjusted. murf427

Its possible that the driver side is not clamping well. Sticky caliper piston. Forcing the passenger side to do most of the work. This will result in rapid overheating which will cause the passenger rotor to look bad after a short drive. Does driver side still look new? Do you feel any sideways pulling when braking? What prompted you to look again after changing rotors and pads? Since you first noticed noise on passenger side, indicating excessive wear, I think the problem is the drivers side caliper. You could try working caliper piston out and in a few tmes, but usually you want to replace a problem caliper.

bleeding hydraulic lines is tricky. get someone to help you. get a big bottle of brake fluid, and don't be stingy.it takes a lot of pumps to pass air from front to back of truck. start at the furthest wheel and bleed first. use a clean water bottle punch 1/4' hole in cap use 2 ft of clear 3/16 tubeing, stick it in the cap and submerge in the water bottle which you will fill 1/3 with brake fluid. by submerging the end of the tube this will allow air to bubble out, but it will **** fluid back.you can see the air bubbles come out. All the while someone keeps an eye on the mastercylinder, do no let the mastercylinder run out or you will pump new air in....keep toping off and pass plenty of brake fluid. You will end up with no air and brand new brake fluid

The problem lays with the Caliper itself and/or the brake hose connected to the Caliper.
However if you replaced the pads, did you also replace the Rotors or have them Turned? The old pads wear the rotor. New pads on old rotors that have not been replaced or turned may end with rubbing or stuck brakes.
A simple way to test whether it's one and/or the other:
1. Remove the Caliper from the rotor, remove the pads. Keep for now the caliper attached to the brake hose.
2. Very slowly push on the brake, exposing more of the piston out of the bore. Not all the way. Usually until the rubber dust seal/boot is fully extended.
3. Check the seal/boot for cracks and tears, and if clean or not. Bad seals may prevent the piston from re-seating.
4. Using a c-clamp and pushing straight in: Try repushing the Caliper Piston back into the Caliper Bore (the cup back into the hole). It should go back in realitively easy.
5. If it doesn't go back in easy: Again slowly pump the brake and re-push the pistons back out to full extended seal/boot (but not the piston out of the bore).
6. Detached the brake hose from the caliper.
7. Again using a c-clamp and pushing straight in: Try again to repush the caliper piston back into the bore without the hose attached. If it goes back-in relatively easy - the caliper is okay...it is the brake hose.
8. If the caliper piston does not go back in easily - Replace the caliper.
9. When Installing the new (reman) caliper, remember to bleed the brakes.
TRY EITHER OR #10 OR #11 BELOW:
After the new Caliper is reattached to hose and has been bled:
10. Again push on the brake petal to fully extend the caliper piston fully (rubber seal/boot fully extended) Again do not push the piston out of the bore! Try pushing the piston back into the bore. If it does not re-seat relatively easy: Replace the brake hose.
11. Another method: After replacing the new caliper back on the rotor: Assumng the entire front end (2WD front wheel drive) or entire vehicle (2WD rear wheel drive) or (4WD all the time) is jacked up off the ground
a. Put the lug nuts back on the rotor.
b. Have helper Start the vehicle and place in Drive. Don't step on gas!
c. Have then let off the brake and then engage the brake.
d. When they let off the brake watch to see if the Rotor is turning or not, if rubbing or not. Or if still sticking.
e. With a new caliper, turned or new rotors, and still a problem? It is the brake hose!
12. Replace the brake hose and try again.

Another method but more expensive:
OR Replace the calipers, brake hoses; bleed and test!

If this helped or not; or if you need additional help or have addtional questions let me know on fixya.com!

You may have a leak in the booster or master cylinder. You can put a pressure tester on the system to test for leaks. It does sound like you have an air leak.
You can try to bleed the master cylinder, then slave cylinder, then brake lines.

I WOULD GO BACK AND REBLEED BRAKES STARTING FROM THE BACK TO THE FRONT SEE IF THIS HELPS PUMP BRAKE PEDEL SLOWLY THREE TIME HOLD TO FLOOR AND OPEN VAVLE MAKE SHERE NO AIR COMING OUT BEST WAY TO TELL IS GET CLEAR BOTTLE AND BUT BRAKE FLUID IN IT GET A HOSE THAT FITS ON THE FITTING AND PUT HOSE IN THE BOTTLE AND WHEN YOU OPEN BLEEDER YOU CAN SEE THE AIR COME OUT EASER