Replacing Radius Control Arm Bushings

the bushings there talking about are built into the control arm it's where the sway bar goes threw just get the new arms

Check the rubber bushings on the front suspension arms, especially the lower radius leading arms. When you brake the inertia of the car is thrown forward and the lower arms come under enormous strain. If the radius arm to body frame bushing has gone then the leading arm moves rearwards slightly and causes toe out on the front wheel. If one side is weaker than the other then the car steers/pulls in the direction of toe out. If these check out then look at the ball joints on the steering arms and the steering links. Use a pry bar and be quite forceful, its a big truck and there should be no movement.

most likely the bushing you are refering to is called a radius arm bushing if it is 4x4,if it is not the it would be upper or lower control arm bushings

you need to do what i call a dry check i do before performing an alignment have someone sit in truck and shift steering wheel from side to side lightly while you look at steering components check for loose pitman arm,drag link if used inner tie rods outer tie rods or excessive play in steering box then jack up each front wheel and check upper and lower ball joints

Well there are stabilizer bar bushings, control arm bushings and strut mount bushings. The stabilizer bushings are usally bolted around the the stabilizer bar and attach to the frame. The control arm bushings are usally pressed into the control arms. The strut mount bushings are on top of the struts. Normally they are replaced as needed. The strut mount bushings are good to do when replacing the struts.

Hi Darrell,
No the springs will remain in place,You will need new bolts and nuts before you start the job,they are 1/2 x one inch.you'll need five of them.unfortunately there are three large rivets you will need to torch off besides the other three bolts and nuts. Remove the radius arm nut and outer bushing before you loosen the arm.
good luck

the most probable cause of that clunk is the radius arm bushings need replacing i have done LOTS of those . if you are not a mechanic or have limited skill this repair is fairly difficult..( not being rude just trying to save you a headache ) the radius arm extends rearward from front axle to frame..one on each side . look at the bushings where it goes through the frame bracket there should be a rubber bushing on both sides of that frame bracket and they should be compressed with no gap.. i hope that helps

Drill out the rivits for the quickest repair, just make sure you use Grade 8 bolt in there place.

Pretty easy for the regular backyard mechanic to do. First drive up to a pretty good sized tree so you are almost directly in front of it head on. loosen the nut on the back. Using a come along pul the front left side to pull your radius arm from the hanger. change out the front bushing and loosen the come along slowly so you can line the radius arm back into the hanger....a jack may be needed even though I have never had to use one. once the radius arm is back in place replace the rear bushings and torque to 200 ft lbs. i think its 200 ft lbs but check with a repair manual or ask a mechanic to make sure.

Hope this helps yah cause I have done it this way on alot of vehicles I have owned and it doesnt cost nearly what it does to take it in and have it professionaly done. And it only takes about 45 minutes to do a side. But do both if replacing the bushings on one side, always do the other also.

they have what are called Radius Arm Bushings.That cause this problem and other vibration problems also. Go to Explorer forum com site for info on how to replace the.