We have no fire coming out of the distributor, we have changed rotor buttons and distributors we have also changed the computer. Can you please advise were the ground is on the thermostat housing?

if the coil is tested fully and is good where have you checked for it being good? have you checked if the HT lead from the coil to the distributor is carrying power? If you have power at the distributor cap , all the contacts are good, the rotor is fine, (check current at the distributor cap centre pin) then the likely problem is the machanism for firing, i.e. Hall sensor . I would check all the HT leads, distributor cap, rotor etc. you should carry out the checks systematically. I.E. First check at the coil with a multi meter. Then check at the end of the Ht lead from coil to distributor , actually within the lead itself , for current. then attach it to distributor if it shows a current...if you are getting a current from the distributors centre pin the issue is probably the cap itself, the rotor arm, the firing system, it will probably be electronic as mechanical distributors went out some years before I think. or if that is okay, the leads themselves. I would guess that is is distributor cap or firing system related'

bring no1 piston to TDC firing on the timing mark on the balancer and line the rotor button point to under no1 plug lead and place the distributor in the block . As it goes in the rotor will turn out of position so lift up the distributor until you can reposition the rotor just forward of the position so that when the distributor is full in the rotor lines up with no1 plug lead. The movement is from the helix on the drive gears and you have to compensate for that when positioning the rotor button.. leave the retaining clamp just loose enough to turn the body of the distributor . After fitting all the leads in the correct firing order . start the engine and using a timing light move the distributor body until you get the timing mark on the required degrees advanced ( normally around 12 ) and then lock up the clamp.

possibly all you got wrong is the firing order for the plug wires. Put the engine on no 1 firing as per the timing mark and see which plug lead that rotor button is pointing to. Use that as no 1 lead and adjust the rest of the leads to suit the firing order. IF by chance that the rotor button points between the contacts in the cap the pull the distributor and turn the rotor button until when you have the distributor back in ,the button is pointing to a plug lead contact and adjust the firing order from that.

no,the pump wouldn't do that. Pull the dist cap and crank the engine,make sure the rotor spins,may have sheared the pin one the shaft.

How did you make the determination that all the firing orders are wrong? No matter what the source was, the firing order should be the same no matter who you got the information from. Am I correct on this.....that everybody keeps giving you the same firing order??? As a point of emphasis I would like to know if you recieved conflicting specifications regarding the firing order. You may want verify the calibration of the distributor's position. At TDC the distributor rotor should be pointing to #1 cylinder terminal on the distributor cap, or 90 degrees across from it. Please verify.

The distributor cap and/or the ignition rotor most likely have a crack somewhere and the distributor cap should be replaced along with the ignition rotor. The ignition module could have been damaged as well as the ignition pick-up coil/stator and if replacing the distributor cap and ignition rotor does not solve the problem then the ignition module or the pick-up coil/stator assembly inside of the distributor is also most likely damaged and the distributor will need to be replaced. There is a certain procedure for removing and replacing the distributor, and the ignition timing is not adjustable and it is not set using a timing light or with the engine running, and if you do have to replace the distributor Let me know if you require the procedure to properly remove and replace the distributor or if you require any further assistance.

You should check to make sure that the rotor button is in place. Also check the coil wire and the fire orderr to make sure that no wires are crossed. These are pretty much the only reasons why your car won't crank with the distributor cap change.

Replace the pick up coil,in the distributor,along with the ignition module,these work together to pulse the injectors,and the spark for the coil.If one,or both of the parts are bad ,in the distributor,then this would be the problem,also,if you believe the distributor is a good part,and are sure,replace the coil,make sure the rotor button is turning,if it is not,then the timing chain has broke.Rate please,if this was at all helpful,thank you.

You need to mark in 2 places. With the cap off mark the position of the rotor button on the distributor housing first. Then you need to make a mark on the distributor housing that will line up with a mark on the engine itself.
When you put the distributor back in back the rotor button up before you put it in because the cam gear will turn it ahead as it seats. For example, if the rotor button is at 3 o'clock then back it up to 1 o;clock.
Don't force the distributor down at the end because you can damage the end that drives the oil pump. Fidle and wiggle it as you push and it should line up and drop onto the oil pump. Also DON'T turn the engine over while it's out or you will have to retime the engine. Hope this helps.

You didn't post your engine size so please choose the apprpriate diagram:





1989-98 2.5L Engine firing order: 1-3-4-2 Distributor rotation: Clockwise






2.8L Engine firing order: 1-2-3-4-5-6 Distributor rotation: Clockwise





4.0L Engine firing order: 1-5-3-6-2-4 Distributor rotation: Clockwise





5.2L and 5.9L Engine firing order: 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 Distributor rotation: Clockwise