Upper block fills with antifreeze in between manifold and block

Head or intake gasket is bad check oil and see if it is milky looking.if yes antifreeze is getting in oil. Check antifreeze is it milky or oily . if yesoil getting in antifreeze. Both will be over full.or the head or engine block itself could be cracked.

where is such a simple word
where;
3.2L V6, SOHC head 6VD1 (not the 6vd1w twin cam heads)
x marks the spot
asked many time here, and same answer.
if you look , you see it, then see its not possible to get to the 2 rear bolts (telling you what?)
pull engine block, ? no
pull intake, yes.

ITs the coolent is low .You don't say how old but antifreeze is good for 5 or 6 years no matter it says on the label or the owerers manaul.
Drain the whole system and the block use raidator flush fill with water run as dericted .
Dump again raiditor and block spray pressure through system at every point you can form the water hose at your house .
Fill with a 50/50 mix antifreeze let vehicle run until thermostat opens sqeeze upper radiator hose no pressure T stat is open,
Then finish filling the system .read the amount in qt's that it needs in yours oweners manual or call dealer with information know what you are talking about and they will tell what you need to know

Some where you have lost integrity of the cooling system allowing it to enter the crankcase. If the coolant goes directly into the oil, the problem should be obvious. If you send the year, make and model I may be able to help you locate it. If it overheated, the cylinder head may have cracked.

The 3.8 liter for this year has a plastic intake manifold. These manifolds are known to fail around the EGR port. When this happens coolant will leak into the intake right behind the throttle body. Dorman makes a replacement upper plenum that has been reinforced in this problem as along with a new gasket and an updated EGR tube. This will more than likely solve your issue. If you see a little coolant behind the throttle body this repair needs to be done ASAP. If this area completely ruptures it will hydroloc the engine. This means that coolant will fill one or more of the cylinders and the engine will not turn over/start.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

If you have the V-8 Engine, just totally disregard this post.

If you have the 3.8L V-6 engine, your oil consumption problem is most likely to be caused by the PCV Valve if you cannot find any external leaks. These are also known for the upper intake plenum leaking antifreeze. The ports in the manifold that go to the throttle body are made of very thin plastic. The EGR tube, with its hot exhaust gasses, goes right between them. This causes the plastic to heat up and crack, causing an antifreeze leak that goes directly into the intake and gets burned in the combustion chambers.

DORMAN makes a replacement upper plenum kit to fix this problem. The kit includes the upper plenum with thicker coolant passage walls, an intake manifold gasket set, a smaller-diameter EGR orifice, and a new PCV Valve. This kit will probably fix BOTH of your problems.

The DORMAN part number for your car is 615-180 Shop around...prices vary considerably.

you still have air trapped in the cooling system. Get front of car as high up as you can on a hill. Cold engine - loosen radiator cap, fill with 50/50 antifreeze mix. Start engine and run until upper radiator hose is hot (thermostat open). Engine should burp air and maybe spill some coolant, that's ok. Once burped, tighten cap, shut off engine and let it cool down while keeping the reservoir full. It will **** coolant out of reservoir as it cools. Keep it full.

If still cold air, take to a shop that has evac/fill equipment; they will **** air out and repalce with coolant. About $80.

gerry

this means that you have a headgasket leak flush the system take out the antifreeze fill with just water put in a bottle of block seal / headgasket sealer run the engine for about 3 to 4 hrs then flush out the system again and fill with antifreeze (remember that block seal will clog your system (if) you don't get all the antifreeze out ( read the label on the bottle (autozone carries block seal) about 25;00 bucks

If you have some common tools the knock sensors are no big deal.  If you take a lexus they will make is sound like you need to completely disassemble the engine and scare you off.
First, do you really have a problem with preignition causing real knocking due to carbon buildup, or diluted gasoline or do you have failed knock sensor(s).  Try to decarbon the engine first.
There is a technique used with water being sprayed into a warm engine intake.  This will clean up the valves and carbon buildup which can result in engine knocking.  

The job will be a couple hundred for the parts and a couple hours of your time.  After you are done, you have entitled yourself to approximately $500 in new tools for your tool chest since this is what Toyota and Lexus will charge to fix (about $1k+).

You will need to buy the following to address the knock sensors and a couple other items while you're in the neighborhood.
- 1x upper intake plenum gaskets - 2x lower intake plenum gasket - coolant bypass hose found in the same area as knock sensors - 2x knock sensors (bank1 and bank2) - short pig tail cable which connects both knock sensors to common wire harness. - toyota antifreeze  (2 gallons, if i remember correctly... when mixed to 50/50 (antifreeze/ water) you will have 4 gallons.
drain the radiator drain the front of the engine using the engine drain plug - this plug is on the front right side facing the engine, behind the right hand exhaust manifold. (this will lower antifreeze enough to avoid dumping antifreeze all over the engine later) remove the air filter box remove the connections into the throttle body remove the cable from the throttle control remove the upper air intake plenum remove the two lower air intake plenums remove the antifreeze fill port
Knock sensors will be in the valley between the lower intake plenums.  You will need to remove the rubber antifreeze bypass hose (little short hose blocking access to the knock sensors).
By the way, the reason you bought a replacement, is that if this short hose splits from normal wear, you need to spend this money and effort to reach it, so just do it now.
The little pig tail cable which connects both knock sensors to the wire harness is said to cause a big majority of the problem due to the plastic getting hot and brittle, falling off and shorting to the engine.  While in this mode the engine thinks knock is occuring and starts to retune the air fuel mixture to get rid of the knock until it goes into minimal operations mode.
After replacing the knock sensors (and tighten to torque specs), replacing pig tail cable, and reinstalling your new short by pass hose.  Replace the lower gaskets, antifreeze fill port, lower intakes, upper gasket, upper intake, air intake, air filter, reattach everything, reconnect all the rubber lines you pulled off, make sure there are no splits in the air intake passage anywhere, retighten the engine antifreeze drain plug, and the drain on the bottom of your radiator, and your done!
Don't forget the easy stuff.  Dilute the antifreeze with water and fill the radiator and overflow tub.  Run the engine for several minutes until its hot and opens the thermistat to allow antifreeze into the empty engine cavities.  Turn the engine off and get a cold one as the engine cools.  Once absolutely sure engine is cold, refill the radiator with antifreeze and refill the reserve tub.  Do this at until all the beer is gone and you are both full of antifreeze (in one form or another)..... obviously red stuff in the car, amber down the gut.