I need to know set the meter for checking vots

https://my.prostreetonline.com/2016/02/22/how-to-test-a-ford-ranger-crank-sensor/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RvuzZJqQDf4

Better check the alternator diodes. Good luck.

Check the contacts on the hi/low switch did,nt melt due to high voltage or they could be dirty you have to remove the cover around the column.

Suspect throttle positioning sensor (TPS)...can be tested...need a meter set to read 5 volts DC...Tps is located on throttle body...it has a three wire connector with wire colors: Brown/Orange...Dark Blue/Dark Green...And Pink/Yellow...Engine off...Push points of safety pins deep into into rear of in place connector PLUS METER LEAD on Brown/Orange wire and NEGATIVE METER LEAD into DarkBlue/DarkGreen...Set meter to read 5 volts...Start engine...At idle (Yes, I know it is running rough) then read meter...RECORD READING...Next rev engine to full throttle...RECORD READING...First reading must be .08 volts...Second must be 4.5 volts...If second reading is less than 3 volts...example 2.4volts TPS is culprit...Replace TPS...all readings OK? Let me know...saailer

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_6df67de3b14de867

check for 12 vots of power at the horn itself when pressing the horn button. If there is a reading then replace the horn unit. If there is no reading at the unit I would suspect no contact in the horn button/control itself.

its your alternator voltage regular failed and your alternator is isnt being limited to 12 vots and its overpowering your electric system. the smell of rotten eggs is your battery over heating and the acid inside is boiling giving off the sulfur based smell. this is unhealthy for you to breath and is a sure sign that your car needs to be repaired. you need to replace your alterantor and battery immeditly or it coud damage your vehicals computer. The new altenator will have a new regulator in it and you will be good.

Could be, try swapping coils. see if the miss goes to the other cylinder. If it doesn't then I would check the injector. this can be done with an ohm meter. Set the meter on the lowest setting, and put the leads to the two prongs in the injector. It should read between 11 and 15 ohms. Check another injector to make sure. If the injector checks out fine then you will have to check the wires going to the injector. the easy way is to use a noid light. If you dan't have one then you can use the ohm meter. set it to dc volts at least 20, put the leads to the two connectors in the plug. if they will not insert you can use paperclips or any small wire. You will have to have some one crank or start the engine and the numbers on the meter will jump up and down, fast. if they don't then you will have to check the wires for continuity. you will need a schematic for this. if the wires check out, then you could have a bad computer(ecm) Unlikely though. Or it can be mechanical let me know

i need a good vot first....

you need to have the engine coolant switch checked,since the computer relies solely on sensors,the ect tells the computer how cold or hot it is so the computer will make it a rich or lean mixture to start the engine,if it tells the computer that it is 75 degrees the computer will lean the mixture like starting a car in the winter without a choke.

You are referring to the Serpentine Belt. you can check that simply by pressing down on the belt between two pulleys, if you can press the belt down more than a half in, the belt is stretched and needs replacing. also check the edges of the belt for cracking, that will also need replacement.

As for the Alternator, start the car. If the car dies within a few minutes, its bad. You can also take just a standard Volt meter while the car is running, and attach the volt meter to the battery. If you get anything less than 12-15 volts the alternator is not functioning properly and needs attention.

PS When using the Volt Meter, make sure its on DC setting and set it to the 20 volt setting,