I have no problems, it just runs and runs :) I`d just want to find parts (racing) to it. Any suggestions for any good dealer with lots of old racingparts, such as shocks, bushings, brakes and engineparts. Please help me. Stefan Nilsson Sweden [email protected] Honda Civic 1,5 I - 1986. I believe it`s called SI in US.

Hi. This isn't a quick repair. Procedure is to raise wheel off ground, place jack stand in place (for safety), remove brakes to expose axle, remove (4) axle retaining bolts and slide hammer to remove axle. A race removal tool will be needed to remove the old race from the axle shaft. You will buy a new axle seal, bearing and race. NOTE: Press the old bearing off first. There are two sizes plus if the retaining plate or retaining ring get damaged. you won't be surprised. A parts store or hydraulic should be your "Go To Place" for pressing off the old bearing and pressing on, the Retaining plate, new seal and bearing and retaining ring. Clean the axle shaft and install the new race and put it back together. If you need anything else please write back. Details are always good. Don't worry about saying too much. Good Luck.

A lot of times original equipment manufacturers make the best for your car when you go and get something that submarket it's not going to work as well as it would getting it from the dealership so that's probably where your problem lies the one from the dealership works the one from AutoZone or O'Reilly's does not work

This sounds very much like a front wheel bearing, over a period of time the bearing inner race track gets pitted and can create the sound your mention, some times you can hear the noise if you jack the front wheel of the floor depending on how pitted the race groove is, it's best to remove the bearings from the offending side and turn them between your fingers and you will know instantly if it as gone faulty you will feel that it runs rough, a new bearing runs very smooth and a little tight, normally the pitted bearing will not necessarily have any wear play so don't be fooled to think it okay.

A word of advice if you do need a replacement bearing go to a bearing suppliers, as they will most certainly be a lot cheaper than the Dealers for spares,
Good luck

Run compression leak down test. At 300K miles, injector pump issue is possible, but unless you have done very regular maintenance, using good quality oil and filters, could be rebuild time.

power steering has pressurized hoses they need to be replaced with power steering hoses,if its the reservoir i suggest getting used from scrap yard, and your fan motor is dying you will soon lose high speed to for changing these products i suggest getting a manual like chiltons, from canadian tire or most auto parts dealers

Hello Alkodiak167,

There are always great reasons NOT to take your car to a DEALER... ESPECIALLY after 20 years
(of faithful service)... I think DEALERS HATE old cars.

AFTER 10 YEARS... Dealers (in my opinion) comic book
approach... doesn't help a real mechanical issue...

As to running around an CLEANING GROUND connections:
Wouldn't that be WONDERFUL...

If you want to CONTINUE that BOONDOGGLE... FREE DRAWINGS and TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETINS are available (USA market) at BBB Industries website... (see below).
Registration is required... as these are real drawings.

If you want to save money... and time... check around
for a FREE DIAGNOSTIC reads... Muffler-shops,
service station and AUTO-PARTS houses (AUTOZONE?).

Keep in mind... If your OXYGEN SENSORS are
REPORTING any issues... NEW OXYGENS SENSORS
will likely ALSO report the same trouble(s).

Vague GENERALITIES to follow:
Engines are all about fire & fuel... and

ARM YOURSELF with a few facts... stabbing at
solutions (while typically cheaper than going to a DEALER)
spends bountiful time and money... usually wasting a lot of good OXYGEN SENSORS in the process...

When you see OXYGEN SENSORS in the diagnostic results... Look for a clogged exhaust (muffler and/or catalytic converter).

You can trouble shoot the OLD FASHIONED way... pressure check, finally toss in a few filters... BUT WHY do you WANT
TO INGORE a perfectly good ON-BOARD-DIAGNOSTIC
system...??

First suggested stab (in the dark)
1997 DODGE CARAVAN 3 3L V6 Throttle Position Sensor TPS RockAuto

FREE Circuit DRAWINGS
BBB Industries Premium Alternators Starters Power Steering Products

Carnac the Magnificent

They are know for blowing transmissions. They are a best seller, and the number one mini van but with that comes a problem. They are massed produced and lots of the parts come from countries with low quality standards(china,mexico) On the other hand, your mechanic is right they are cheap(er) to fix than alot of their foreign competition. Parts are easily accesable and usually cheap. They have good motors and come with a lot of cool features. Resonably priced, easy to fix, i would buy one and buy the certified used vanThis usually means you get a powertrain extension up to 100k).This will cover you in case of the trans going bad(usually between 65,000 and 90,000 miles). It will cost a little more in the beginning but worth it in the long run. Shop around, dealers are hurting and you might get a great deal. Good luck

repair mannual book or ask your NAPA dealer to print it off for you. Good luck
Let me know how it go's i run the dirt track's in arkansas and oklahoma.

dealer parts item.

"hard" parts seem to be pretty good on most of them...If you read the posted problems though there are a bunch of electrical/computer based issues that in my opinion have stemmed from over-engineering and typical cost-cutting measures that affect quality. You cannot really "maintain" your way out of those, but hopefully you will have a good one...remember, no one posts here because they have no problem...there are thousands out there that run just fine!
Good luck with your eep!!! (I have three!)