I know very little about metronomes, but I suspect that you can get eighth note tempo by doubling the quarter note tempo. If the quarter note tempo is 90, set the metronome for 180.
Testimonial: "Your answer is good... I have done this and it works. I want to change beat without bypassing the system. Thanks for reply... Bob"
SOURCE: Hesitation in engine
There are more than just the two causes listed by Jigsaw_9077. I also have a similar problem with my '02 Jag. s-type 4.0L. Very rarely will airflow cause a "miss-fire like" hesitation unless there is a complete blockage of airflow (such as a broken valve or something of that sort) and will most likely ALWAYS have that hesitation, just just bellow 1500rpm. Richard_drin is partially correct. Fuel can cause this hesitation and commonly at lower RPM. If there is a fuel issue, a new fuel filter or a fuel rail/fuel injector flush should help or fix the problems unless there is an electrical problem with the fuel injector or the fuel pump is bad (a fuel pump problem is normally at higher RPM). The first step to finding the actual problem (because it can be one of many) is to change the fuel filter. If the hesitation is still the same, have a mechanic check for proper fuel pressure. This shows if your fuel pump is operating correctly and your fuel lines are not obstructed. If it is determined that there may be an ignition problem, like a check engine light with a miss-fire code like mine is doing, then find the cylinder with the miss-fire and and swap the coil pack with another one that appears to be working properly. (ex. miss-fire code on cyl. 5, switch the coil pack with the one from cyl. 1 and clear the code) If (or when) the check engine light comes on again, have it scanned for the miss-fire code again. If the miss-fire is from the same coil pack, replacing the coil pack should fix the problem, if there is a miss-fire from the same cylinder as before, then you know that it's some other ignition problem. Now you have narrowed your problem greatly, and haven't spent any money on a mechanic (or parts if do the work on your own car like myself). This is where I am at with my car right now, but I have not yet found the solution yet. When I find it, I will update to give you more info and save you from paying a mechanic for doing all of this research for you.
SOURCE: Getting thge rear brake drum off of a 1991 Isuzu pickup
Once you hit a brake drum-- it is junk
Don't even turn it,throw it away
Only rust on the axle hub or the shoes
holding it
May as well get physical with it now
as all the brake parts have to be replaced
SOURCE: How do I remove the rear brake drums on a 1991 Isuzu pickup?
Bob, I recently had the same problem on my rear brakes on my S-10, I too relieved the tenioner all the way and could not get my drums off. The problem was opening in the drum that fits over the axle stub was seized. I soaked it good with Areo-Kroil over night and used a puller to get if off. If that wouldn't have worked I would have used heat on the drum around the opening, however you need to be careful when appling heat as not to melt and seals (i.e. brake cylinder axle seals) in my situation if I coundn't have got the drums off I would have cut them off with a adbrasive wheel on a die grinder as I had purchased new drums, (mine where almost as cheap as having them machined. When you put the drums back on put some anti seize on the axle stub and hole on the drums. Good luck I hope this helps
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