Somehow I do not think it is a faulty ground connection. You need to get hold of a circuit diagram for the car and trace the wiring. I suspect you have a short somewhere and you are going to have to spent a fair bit of time working you way through all the wires until you find the fault. Alternatively just take it to an auto electrician and let them fix it.
SOURCE: 1996 honda accord windshield wipers
Sounds like the wiper arm has become disconnected. There may be a clip or bushing that has broken or fallen off. The wiper motor/arms etc are accessible by taking the cover off (usually plastic and possibly held in by screws or large plastic slots) that's at the base of the windshield. You may have to lift the hood for access and removal. Just take your time and don't force anything.
It's really simple after that. You turn your motor on and look for moving parts, that'll be the wiper motor. Either it's disconnected at the motor or it be disconnected on the arm. Usually one arm will move both wipers. If you're lucky, maybe it's just fallen off and you can find the clip or bushing and re-attach it. Otherwise, you may have to get a new part, which in this case would probably come from the dealer.
You may possibly also get it from a junkyard, but chances are if it's a small part, then they may not sell it to you. However some junk yards WILL sell you these small parts, and others may even let you pull the part yourself. If you could do this, you could also see how the part properly attaches.
If it's confusing how to re-attach the parts, then you may have to buy a Haynes or Chilton manual to see exactly how everything looks. Diagrams would be great. If there's no good pix in the manual, then try online. The best would be to see fully functional operating wipers on a similar car. Maybe find a buddy to take a peek at his after you practice on yours.
The part if broken should fit multiple years of your make of car.
Get this fixed soon because not only will it not pass inspection, but it is highly unsafe.
SOURCE: 1995 honda accord door won't open.
you'll need to slide something into the window well and try to hit the latch
SOURCE: 1992 Honda Accord (LX) Instrument Cluster Replacement
Same as 2 dr, or a stick.
There are bezel screws that hold the plastic trim (pointing up towards the windshield), you nee to remove these 2 screws. The bottom section is clipped in. Tilt the steering wheel down as far as it will go.
Once you have the bezel off, there are 4 screws holding the cluster to the dash. Remove them and gently pull the cluster forward. Reach around (expect to get scraped knuckles) and unclip the speedo cable, and two large multipin connectors. Don't force anything.
Getting the cluster out after this point is a test of your patience. It only seems to come out one particular way.
SOURCE: 2004 honda accord driver side lock won't open remote
driver side has most use and breaks down quickest.
Typically, the lock wears, and should be oiled using graphite powder, not oil, as with most outdoor locks.
However, in winter moisture turns to ice and freezes lock.
In this case, try to squirt lock de-icer (usually this is methyl alcohol or some other type).
Don't use an alcohol (such as from drugstore) that also contains water.
that would make matters worse.
If you spray enough lock deicer or even a high-quality penetrating oil, you may be able to work key and lock to a point where you can turn it.
Don't force key rapidly or too strongly, as it will bend, and may break off in lock.
You can spray some alcohol or penetrating fluid on the key to work it into the lock better.
Sometimes, you can get at a frozen lock mechanism by spraying down into **** between window and metal door from above lock.
Sometimes, you might find that the door itself is frozen,
or the lock latch is frozen, and not the key-tumbler.
In this case, you can try body-checking (not kicking) the door,
to loosen the frozen edges around door and window.
If you can get into car from other side, you can sometimes open it from inside to break ice-jam.
If this is an electrical problem (only remote doesn't work)
The likely cause is broken wire in wire-harness from car body to door.
There will usually be a group of wires either inside a cable or bundled in a rubber tubing, going from car to door at front between hinges.
Here is where the electrical connection will be broken,
because the wires break eventually as they get flexed over and over.
IN this case, the only permanent fix is to find the wire (it will be color-coded), and replace at least 6 inches of that wire (it will probably be broken inside insulating sheath.)
Alternately, there may be an open-circuit at connector to door-latch solonoid. Here you might get lucky if you get inside door-cover off and wiggle or re-insert the plug connector.
Also possible that solenoid is just burnt out or open-circuit.
In that case it must be replaced, for the remote signal to effectively open door lock.
Hi,
The 'stalk' that controls all these functions is faulty. Your truck SHOULD still be under warranty...Take it in.
GL,
Td
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