Question about Cars & Trucks
My battery died and had to be jumped 3 different times before I could get somewhere to have the battery tested. It was bad, so I replaced it with a new one. Just before replacing it, my vehicle started acting like it couldn't shift properly, revving and not moving at all or very very slowly. I replaced the battery, thinking all was well, and the same (and worse) symptoms kept happening! Could the completely dead battery somehow have messed up a sensor in the transmission? I scanned for codes and got 7 total, noted them and cleared them, scanned again. One code kept returning: P083B (Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor). My vehicle was running/driving perfectly prior to the dead battery and ensuing symptoms. Please help! I know it's not a bad tranny, and have ALWAYS had my vehicle serviced and maintained at the dealership I purchased it from. At this point I'm wondering if they have been lax in performing all the services I've paid for (checking transmission fluid, for example), but don't want to accuse them if it's not their fault.
* Make, Model, year for specific solutions.
* Check warranty. Contact your dealer (do a system's test using Computer.)
*** Following is for information only.***
* Since your indicating there is an "Error code". I'm presuming this is a late model car with an electronic, digital system.
* First, There is a "shorted" condition in the car that's draining your battery.
* "phantom drain" is when there is something on like a light that is not noticed unless the car is visually checked. (Kids often play with things in the back seat and may turn on lights or lighter button, etc.
* Depending on the amount of 'drain' (amperage) this will draw power and voltage away from the car's digital control system.
* Low voltage on car's system will give false errors or indication that everything is okay but you don't have enough cranking power to turn over the engine (won't start).
* You can perform visual checks to make sure EVERYTHING is in the off position. I really mean , you have to crawl into the back seat and imagine your a kid and what's there to play with. I've found many 'options' the car had that I was unaware of. Who knew there was a 'Makeup' mirror in the back of the passenger seat with a 'lighted' option if the switch was on. Another time the cigarette lighter was stuck in the down position and came on when I turned on the car. (it was in the middle arm rest of the back seat.)
* If you have a voltmeter or better yet a DC amperage meter then you can monitor the battery drain while the car is off. Disconnect items (fuse) while checking if the 'amp drain' falls off.
* quick test; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lRcj1fQcWwU
* Amprobe test; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zdIKNnwEjIs
* Check the oil pressure switch; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mF0fdo04pBY
* Replacing Oil sensor; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tX7DbNpFVWo
* Measuring the pressure; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-TvFxEVxnGo
* Shop testing oil solenoid; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ui6Rce4Y9-8
* Error P0843; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q6FObgb-2Lk
* Using scan tool; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R4p55pvePeU
* Technical specs on ; https://f01.justanswer.com/TRags85/7dd0f82b-d1e0-4c87-bcd4-4869ef0d71ce_P083B.pdf
* Codes (breakout); https://www.carid.com/images/autel/items/pdf/aual301-instruction-manual.pdf
* Check with your Dealer for additional advice.
PS; Check, Hood light, Trunk light, Passenger makeup mirror light, wide mirror blinker/running lights, ID Plate light, Rear back up system (New cars have back up camera or distance radar.), ect.
Posted on Aug 08, 2018
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Generic (Common for all car manufacturers):
Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch "G" Circuit Range/Performance
If you boost charged you car, it could damage the electronics!
Posted on Aug 08, 2018
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Your transmission problem could be related to the TPS sensor. The TPS sensor indicated to the PCM when and what gear the transmission should be in. As for the Lucas and other additives to the transmission may be doing it more harm then good, As the transmission oil is thicker, the transmission line pressure increases. The PCM try's to compensate for that by letting the converter lock up clutch to slip and the fluid retention in the solenoid to change gears stick causing it to shudder between gear shifts. Recap, Check the TPS sensor readings and the Wire Harness. Look for loose connections and corrosion that may not be giving the proper readings to the ECM. Rescan the car for any DTC codes and most transmission chop can do that for you if your going to get it serviced there anyways. Have the transmission fluid flushed and filter changed, and have them do a transmission line pressure checked, there are additives out there to keep the fluid from foaming which is ok, but changing the fluid's weigh can cause transmission failure. Good luck and hope this helps and keep me posted, be glad to help.
Posted on Jun 14, 2009
I have a 2004 that did not pass the state of Illinois emission test.
The code came back 0711. The check engine light comes on
occassionally but will go out and won't come back on for weeks at a time. Does anyone have a clue?
Posted on Feb 28, 2010
SOURCE: 97 Ford Thunderbird, 8 cyl,
A code P0500 may mean that one or more of the following has happened: The simplest thing to do is to reset the code and see if it comes back. Next, check all wiring and connectors that lead to the speed sensor. The location of the sensor depends on your vehicle. The sensor could be on the rear axle, transmission, or perhaps the wheel hub (brake) assembly. If the wiring and connectors are OK, then check the voltage at the speed sensor. Again, the exact procedure wil depend on your make and model of vehicle. If everything looks OK, replace the sensor.
A code P0500 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
The simplest thing to do is to reset the code and see if it comes back.
Next, check all wiring and connectors that lead to the speed sensor. The location of the sensor depends on your vehicle. The sensor could be on the rear axle, transmission, or perhaps the wheel hub (brake) assembly.
If the wiring and connectors are OK, then check the voltage at the speed sensor. Again, the exact procedure wil depend on your make and model of vehicle.
If everything looks OK, replace the sensor.
Posted on May 01, 2011
First off do not listen to Autozone, they are very quick to spend your money, they are screen readers not trained automotive technicians. No fault code with few exceptions tells you exactly what is wrong, it can be the sensor, the wiring to it or the control module (computer) that has the problem. The pressure sensor is inside the transmission a really dirty big job to access, so have a TRAINED technician look into this before any parts are replaced.
Posted on Jul 19, 2012
I had a similar problem in my Mazda truck before. There is a pressure switch on the side of my truck's automatic gear box. The switch is connected to the engine vacuum system. When the switch leaks, the vacuum sucked the transmission oil through the vacuum line to the engine over time. Have you checked your transmission oil level? If the oil level is low, that's probably the reason. I was still able to drive back home by adding sufficient amount of transmission oil.
Posted on Aug 07, 2012
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