Question about 1999 Ford Explorer

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Having trouble removing last two spark plugs from SHOC engine can't fit hand to remove

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This is a very common problem I see , many explores come to the shop for tune up and the two rear plugs never were changed before...you have to go by the bottom , remove the front tires and you will have plenty of rum..it's not super easy but you can do it..hope this help

Posted on Aug 02, 2009

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Spark plug gap for LinhaI aeolus 300


.8mm

My Linhai 300 - Spark Plug Change
5 Attachment(s) This is sort of going to be a 'How To' for Linhai 300 owners as I didn't find any of this info online when I sat down and searched for it. Thus this post can be added to serve those in the same position I was in when I went about what to do when I wanted to change the spark plug in my scooter. It isn't hard to do this by any means but having a how to around makes things more efficient in many ways. I have also included some other general info that I deemed to be helpful for future issues/projects.

Things you'll need:

-Philips head screwdriver (Remove the screws on the panels.)
-1 DR8EA spark plug (Autozone. I bought 2 for under $10. Advance Auto in my area did not carry these.)
-Gauge to properly gap the plug (Harbor Freight. The gap is .8mm)
-18mm deep socket (Remove/install the spark plug. Harbor Freight.)
OR
-Tool set. I was able to use the tool set that came with my scooter. One tool can be used for removal/installing the plug.

Optional:
-Torque wrench.
Used to properly torque the spark plug. Not having this means you don't know what the plug (or anything else) is torqued at. I recently bought one from Amazon.com for about $25. I saw the same one at Harbor Freight for $5 bucks cheaper. I figured I got the same deal and paid shipping. Pittsburgh Pro was the name of the wrench. (Coincidentally I live in Pittsburgh, PA so this was strange and weird to me.) I never had a torque wrench before and got along just fine so don't think you need to rush out and grab this item if you don't have one. On the other hand I know every time I do something on this scooter that the important parts are torqued to the manufacturers specifications and this means that these parts are being used exactly like they are supposed to and makes me sleep better at night regarding my safety and my wallet. Tightening the hell out of a bolt that holds the wheel on to your scooter versus knowing that you tightened it to exactly what was the manufacturers recommendation are 2 very different realities. Also, after dealing with multiple instances of something wrenched down so tight and stripping screws and dealing with that because someone didn't know what torque to apply, this became a no brainer to buy. In the end it saves you time, money, aggravation and gives you safety, efficiency and piece of mind. Enough of my rant.

-Magnetic parts tray. ($4 Harbor Freight)
This is a great optional tool imo. It keeps all your metallic screws and bolts together and stops them from rolling away and getting lost. It puts them all in one safe secure place and if you or someone else (your clumsy kid) or your excited dog (who has ADD) hits the tray, nothing happens vs. the dish or bowl or lid going flying and having to find all those pieces (hopefully). That or put them on the ground and hope you find them and don't lose them. It saves time and adds organization to the process and can be used on every project you undertake. Not having this I suppose you can use a bowl or cup or some other container to get just about the same advantages as having the magnetic tray. My days of not having this are over and I love it and the things it does for me. I'll be out riding on the scooter for that extra hour instead of looking for that screw, bolt, nut...know what I mean?

-Flashlight. I had no trouble seeing into where I needed to but your setup may be different. You actually may need one of these to see what you're doing. I bought a headlamp from Harbor Freight for under $5. This keeps things hands free. Just the way I want them when working on something.

Well enough of this and onto what I did to change the spark plug on my Linhai 300.


In summary this is going to be what you're going to do:

1. Remove 2 footpads on the right side of the scooter.
2. Remove screws attaching the lower panel and remove the lower panel.
3. Find the spark plug. Remove spark plug boot from spark plug.
4. Using either a socket set or your toolkit tool remove the spark plug. Gap new plug then install.
5. Put everything back together.
6. Test run.


Now onto the more detailed explanation:

Attachment 512

1. Remove the 2 black footpads on the right side of the scooter.

This gives you access to the screws you'll need to remove the bottom panel, giving you access to the right side of the scooter engine. On mine there were 3 screws I had to remove to get this bottom panel to come out. It definitely looks like there were supposed to be more screws holding this on my scooter but those screws weren't there. They were either lost by the previous owner/mechanic that worked on it or they came out from riding. Something I'll have to replace and address. I didn't use Loctite on them but I think I will hit them up with some just to address this finding. So you may have more screws to remove than I did and I suggest dealing with the whole 'keeping the screws from vibrating loose' possibility.

2. Remove the lower panel. (See pic for screw locations)

Attachment 514

(This next paragraph doesn't have anything to do with this project but if you didn't know where these things were exactly now you can see and take a look at where they are and what's involved in getting to them etc.)
Note in the above picture the location of the fuse box. I included a pic of the CDI (it shows 'Digital Igniter' 7500 printed on its cover). I also included a pic of the fuse box housing itself showing which fuses the Linhai 300 uses:
(2) 15 amps
(1) 7.5 amp
(1) 3 amp

Attachment 521

Ok onward...

3. Locate the spark plug.

Attachment 515

It's not hard to locate so note how it looks in the picture and then look under where the lower panel would be and you'll see it. It sits back a little bit. Remove the plug boot from the spark plug.

4. Remove the spark plug.

Here I used my toolkit spark plug removal tool. I used this because there really isn't much room to work with and the tool is able to be inserted into that space rather easily. I then used the screwdriver from my scooter toolkit and put the screwdriver into the hole at the rear of the spark plug removal tool. This allowed me to use leverage to turn the tool to remove the spark plug. It wasn't wrenched in there too tight but I did have to give it some elbow grease to get it to 'crack' and loosen up for me. After it was loose I removed the plug by hand and inspected it. I'm no expert at reading these but I believe my spark plug to be in the 'perfect' category, the scooter is not running too lean or too rich. (Feel free to look at the pictures and comment your thoughts on this.)

Attachment 522

Inspect the area the plug screws into and make sure everything looks ok. Remove any dirt etc. Open and inspect your replacement DR8EA spark plug. Everything looked ok on the replacement. Get your gauge tool and find the .8mm gauge. Insert this at the proper spot. Mine didn't fit. It was just barely tighter than the recommended .8mm gap. I didn't do anything fancy here. I stuck the gauge in there and pried it open slightly. Then tested it again. It was too wide. I put the gauge in the gap and pushed the top of it against my dresser and it closed the gap onto the gauge. The gauge fit perfectly. No damage was done to the electrode or the spark plug. Here is a link for how to gap a spark plug.

http://www.dummies.com/how-to/conten...ark-plugs.html

I screwed the new spark plug into the scooter and hand tightened it until I couldn't any more. I then put on the 18mm deep socket and set my torque wrench to 13 foot pounds. (The manual says 18 Newton Meters and that converts to 13 Foot Pounds.) It was a tight fit getting the socket into the small space and I was barely able to do it. Tightening it demanded 2 hands, 1 hand holding the socket and the other moving the torque wrench. Small increments were used to tighten it until it hit proper torque.

Aug 06, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I can't remove the valve cover on my 99 kia sportage.


Remove Mass Air Flow pipe from Valve cover, then detach hose at rear of valve cover, and hose on left hand side.Remove Plastic Spark Plug cover, and remove coils (leave plugs). Remove all Bolts from inside plug cover (x8) and 9 from the outside (the last one is from behind the timing belt cover. The rear ones are tough, as there is little space to work.Then gently remove the valve cover, you may have to divert the spark cables and small hoses behind the Transmission fluid dip stick.Remove and refit the seal / gasket, and ensure there is a little oil on the top of the block when you replace the valve cover, just tighten bolts to hand tight fit, (you may need to put a piece of newspaper between the screwdriver/wrench handle and your hand to gain sufficient grip.Reverse the process and you should be good to go.

Apr 09, 2013 | 1999 Kia Sportage

1 Answer

Having trouble locating the spark plugs and wires... 2001 Ford Crown Victoria with police package


Your engine has what is called "coil on plug" Or (Direct coil) coils. There are no spark plug wires in the conventional since. The "coil on plug" coil has to be removed to access the spark plug recessed in the valve cover.. Here is a photo of what one looks like from the top. mcneb_65.jpg

Sep 24, 2011 | Ford Crown Victoria Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

I need to know how to change the back three spark plugs on my 2008 ford edge , do i remove the manifold.to get to them, is it safe


Yes, you will have to remove the intake manifold. If you are mechanically inclined, it's not that hard. Looks complicated because of all the wires and hoses. Just take your time, keep track of everything you do, take notes if you have to, so everything goes back together the same way it came apart. Since you are going to all this trouble be sure you buy a premium spark plug. I wouldn't use Champion or Ford products. NGK Iridium would be my choice if they are available.

Jan 01, 2011 | 2008 Ford Edge

1 Answer

Where are you spark plugs on a 2006 Ford Fusion. I have changed many vehicles Spark Plugs but Im not familiar with this model and do I have to remove the intake manifold to get to them ???



Inspection & Gapping

Fig. Inspect the spark plug to determine engine running conditions


Removal & Installation

2.3L Engine

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove the 2 nuts, the bolt and the alternator air inlet duct.

    0996b43f807cb98c.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

    Fig. Remove the 2 nuts, the bolt and the alternator air inlet duct-2.3L engine

  3. Disconnect the 4 ignition coil-on-plug electrical connectors.
    NOTE When removing the ignition coil-on-plugs, a slight twisting motion will break the seal and ease removal. Remove the 4 bolts and the ignition coil-on-plugs.

    WARNING Only use hand tools when removing or installing the spark plugs, or damage can occur to the cylinder head or spark plug.

    NOTE Use compressed air to remove any foreign material in the spark plug well before removing the spark plugs.
  4. Remove the 4 spark plugs.

To install:
  1. Inspect the spark plugs, as outlined in this section.
  2. Adjust the spark plug gap, as necessary, to 1.25-1.35mm (0.049-0.053 in.).
    WARNING Only use hand tools when removing or installing the spark plugs, or damage can occur to the cylinder head or spark plug.
  3. Install the spark plugs and tighten to 12 Nm (9 lb-ft).
    NOTE Apply a small amount of dielectric grease to the inside of the ignition coil-on-plug boots before attaching to the spark plugs.
  4. Install the 4 ignition coils and bolts and tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
  5. Connect the 4 ignition coil electrical connectors.
  6. Install the alternator air inlet duct and the 2 nuts and the bolt. Tighten to 6 Nm (53 lb-in).
  7. Connect the negative battery cable.

Oct 12, 2010 | 2004 Toyota Corolla

1 Answer

How do i change the spark plugs on a 99 subaru forester?


Subaru Forester Spark plug removal: First, you must remove the air cleaner housing Move the tube from the air cleaner and the intake on top of the engine by loosening the hose clamps at each end. It is still attached to a hose underneath but can be put out of the way

Remove the top of the air cleaner and the filter.

Remove the two 12mm bolts at each side of the bottom.

The side of the bottom is rubber gasketed to the inside fender - just rotate slightly each way to loosen and pull off and put off to the side - there is still a wire attached.

Now pull off the spark plug caps on the side of the engine. This is a boxer engine which means the plugs are in a horizontal position on the sides. It is good to have a pair of spark plug pliers to do this as they are really difficult to remove. (spark plug pliers form a circle on the end when closed and are nice to grasp the caps with). Now you will need a 3/8 drive socket wrench, a 2" extension and a 5/8 deep socket Connect the extension and socket and feed it into the spark plug hole and over the spark plug. It is really deep inside. Now attach the wrench and remove the spark plug making sure you keep the tools level so as not to torque the plug side ways. Once the plug is real loose, unattach the wrench and hand loosen the plug with the extension because the wrench won't fit to remove the extension and socket attached. Remove the extension and socket and then spark plug. Put in the new plug reversing the steps.

Dec 21, 2009 | 1998 Subaru Forester

1 Answer

Spark plugs


Wait until the engine is cold. Carefully remove the spark plug wires from each cylinder. Pull the wires by the boot and not by the wire or the wire will be ruined. Now, using a spark plug socket (one that has a rubber fitting inside of it) and an extension remove the spark plugs by turning the wrench counterclockwise. Insert the new plug into the socket so that the rubber will hold the plug in. Place the plug and socket down inside of the hole. Hand tight the plug by turning the extension clockwise. Once the plug cannot be turned by hand, tighten it a little more with the socket wrench. Install the wires back onto the plugs by pushing down on the boot. thanks for using fixya and plsase do rate the solution.

Jun 12, 2009 | 1993 Saturn SC2

3 Answers

I can only find three spark plugs on my freelander v6 engin


Remove
  1. Disconnect battery earth lead.
  2. Remove engine acoustic cover.
  1. RH bank only: Release locking clips and disconnect multiplugs from plug top coils.
  2. RH bank only: Remove 6 bolts securing plug top coils to RH camshaft cover and remove coils.
  1. LH bank only: Noting their fitted positions, disconnect ht leads.
  2. Using a 16 mm plug socket, remove spark plugs from both cylinder heads.
Refit
  1. Set gap of each new spark plug to 1.00 mm .
  2. Fit spark plugs and tighten to 25 Nm (18 lbf.ft) .
  3. LH bank only: Connect ht leads.
  4. RH bank only: Fit plug top coils to spark plugs.
  5. RH bank only: Fit bolts securing plug top coils to RH camshaft cover and tighten to 9 Nm (6.5 lbf.ft) .
  6. RH bank only: Connect multiplugs to plug top coils and secure with locking clips.
  7. Fit engine acoustic cover.
  8. Connect battery earth lead.

Jun 04, 2009 | 2003 Land Rover Freelander

2 Answers

How to change a spark plug on a 2001 murcury cougar


Get a swivel fitting for your socket wrench. You may also need a short extension for the socket wrench. You will also need a spark plug socket to fit those plugs. Make sure that you pull the plug wires off by gripping the fat part of the plug wire and not the wire itself lest you tear it and ruin it.

Dec 27, 2008 | 2001 Mercury Cougar

1 Answer

Spark plugs


Have u ever changed plugs before? Do u have any tools? You will need a spark plug socket, which is especially designed for this purpose, it will help to prevent damage to the plugs when u remove and install them. Also a ratchet wrench for the socket, and depending on your vehicle, u may need an extension. Purchase manufacturer recommended plugs (check your owners manual), you have to check the 'gap' of the plugs before installation, so u need a 'feeler gauge' or spark plug gap tool available at parts stores. Plug gap is set at the factory, but sometimes during shipping and handling they get banged around, so u have to check to make sure the gap is correct. 1st remove one plug at a time (so u don't mix up the order). To remove grab the spark plug wires, grab the 'boot' (the area of the wire that fits over the spark plug), push in, twist (does'nt matter which direction)and then pull out to remove. U don't want to yank on the wire, u can damage the the wire, so make sure u r twisting/pulling as close to the plug as possible. Once the wire is disconnected, remove the spark plug. Insert a new plug, by putting it in the socket, then by hand (not attached to your ratchet wrench yet) carefully screw it in (do not force it!). Once it's hand tightened, put the ratchet on and tighten snuggly (don't use brute force!) check the tightening instructions on the spark plug box. Reattach wire, proceed to the next plug. Aren't glad u don't have a 12 cylinder engine? How many miles on your Passat? If it's approaching 100k, u should also change your spark plug wires. Good Luck! Let me know how it goes. countrycurt0

Oct 06, 2008 | 2004 Volkswagen Passat

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