Question about 2004 Renault 181

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Alternator not charging the battery

Battery tested not faulty. when i start the car it indicate stop low battery. alternator was repaired on friday on saturday i was stuck on the road battery low .i dont know whether is alternator or my car is killing alternator.

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Take the car to an autoparts store and have the alternator tested. While the output is being checked, move the wires around and see if it affects the output. I had a wire shorting out in the plug once that was intermittently causing the alternator to not charge. I ended up soldering the wire into the plug and it stopped the problem. If the alternator is not charging the battery, it is most likely either a short in the wiring somewhere or a faulty voltage regulator. Hope this helped and best wishes.

Posted on Aug 02, 2009

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P2500 starts but won't stay running


P2500 Generator Lamp/L-Terminal Circ Low

Indicator

This code indicates that a fault has been detected in the generator lamp control circuit. The PCM may have also detected an abnormal voltage reading from the vehicle battery, starting, or charging system.

Code Set Parameters

In the event of generator lamp control circuit fault, a trouble code will be stored and a service engine soon lamp will be illuminated. Some models require multiple drive cycles (as many as 8) with a failure in order for the service engine soon lamp to be illuminated and others will activate it on the initial failure.

Symptoms

This code indicates that a fault has been detected in the charging system circuit. The PCM may have also detected an abnormal voltage reading from the vehicle battery, starting, or charging system.

Common Causes

The most common cause of this code can be traced to a faulty alternator. Other causes could include a bad battery or starter, open or shorted wiring or battery cables, insufficient battery primary or secondary grounds, defective voltage regulator, corroded battery terminal ends, a faulty PCM (rare), a large battery drain, or a defective battery.

Common Misdiagnosis

Technicians report that batteries and starters are often replaced in error when the alternator is either not charging or overcharging. If the battery is discharged, charge it and test the vehicle charging system to make sure that it is operating properly.

Diagnosis

  • The starting/charging system is monitored by the PCM whenever the key is placed in the "ON" position, as is the generator lamp circuit for the instrument panel
  • When the engine is running, the PCM is programmed to anticipate between 13.8 and 14.4 volts from the charging system
  • If a voltage reading that either exceeds or underachieves, a code will be stored and a service engine soon lamp illuminated
  • Some vehicle models (especially Chrysler) also use the PCM to regulate charging system voltage
  • System voltage malfunctions related to the PCM are much more common in vehicles equipped with this type of system than in other systems. Before beginning your diagnosis, make sure that the battery is fully charged
  • If the battery fails to take or hold a charge, it should be replaced. Several tools will be instrumental in successfully diagnosing this code
  • A suitable OBD-II scanner (or code reader) and a digital volt/ohmmeter will be most helpful in performing a successful diagnosis
  • Begin with a visual inspection of all wiring and connectors
  • Repair or replace damaged, disconnected, shorted, or corroded wiring, connectors, and components as necessary
  • Always retest the system after repairs are completed to ensure success. If all system wiring, connectors, and components (Including fuses) appear to be in normal working order, connect the scanner (or code reader) to the diagnostic connector and record all stored codes and freeze frame data
  • This information can be extremely helpful in diagnosing intermittent conditions that may have contributed to this code being stored
  • Continue by clearing the code and operating the vehicle to see if it returns
  • This will help to determine whether or not the malfunction is intermittent
  • After the codes are cleared, test drive the vehicle to see if the code returns
  • If the code fails to immediately return, you may have an intermittent condition
  • Intermittent conditions can prove to be quite a challenge to diagnose and in extreme cases may have to be allowed to worsen before a correct diagnosis can be made
  • Continue with a visual inspection of the battery and battery cables
  • Should you find excessive corrosion on the battery terminals, suspect a poor battery connection
  • If this is the case, disconnect the battery cables from the battery (always disconnect the ground cable first and see manufacturer's recommendations for disconnecting/reconnecting the battery) and remove the corrosion from the battery posts and terminals
  • Reconnect the battery and retest the charging system
  • Connect the starting/charging system tester to the battery and perform a load test
  • If the battery fails the load test, replace it
  • If the battery passes the load test, leave the tester connected and start the engine
  • Observe the voltage readings on the tester and compare your findings with manufacturer's specifications
  • Replace starting/charging system components as required
  • Typical alternator output should read approximately 14 volts with the engine started and no accessories or lighting turned on
  • Leave the tester connected and use the amp probe to test the starter current draw
  • Compare your findings to manufacturer's specs and repair or replace starting system cables or other components as needed. The generator lamp circuit is used to activate a charging system indicator in the instrument panel if system voltage is abnormal
  • Voltage readings that are too low may indicate worn brushes in the alternator
  • High voltage readings may be indicative of a defective voltage regulator (usually integrated in the alternator but some are part of the PCM)
  • Before performing any continuity and resistance testing on the generator lamp circuit, be sure to disconnect the wiring from the instrument panel to prevent damage to system controllers and circuit boards
  • Consult the vehicle service manual for reference voltage readings and other precautions. If the starting/charging system are in proper working order, you will need to test secondary wiring
  • Disconnect the alternator connector and test all circuits using the digital volt/ohmmeter
  • If alternator wiring values are in line with acceptable specifications, disconnect the PCM connector and perform a continuity test on all system circuits
  • Compare actual findings with manufacturer's specifications and repair open or shorted electrical wiring as necessary. If the malfunction has still not been rectified, suspect a defective PCM.

Nov 09, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

My 2007 toyota auris power steering has stopped working


alternator could be problem if battery volts are low.have alternator tested with engine idling should have 13.5 - 14.5 volts at the battery.check alternator drive belt tension.if alternator is faulty that will cause you to lose power steering because if equipped your vechicle has the electrical power steering need electric power from good strong battery and alternator.if alternator fails power steering will also fail.

Dec 28, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a 1997 mercury mystique. Battery fully charged, turn the key, absolutely nothing. In fact no power to anything, no interior lights, nothing. Battery is brand new


Its seems voltage regulator issue.Get the vehicles charging system inspected.

To troubleshoot these issue i suggest you few helpful links with solutions:---Click the link below:----

How to inspect Vehicles Alternator?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2011/11/how-to-inspect-vehicles-alternator.html

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How to Test Vehicles Alternator?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2011/11/how-to-test-vehicles-alternator.html

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How to Service Vehicles Alternator?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2011/11/how-to-service-vehicles-alternator.html

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How to Replace Alternator?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2011/11/how-to-replace-alternator.html

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How to monitor Vehicles charging system?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2011/11/how-to-monitor-vehicles-charging-system.html

-------------

Car Alternator making noise?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2011/11/car-alternator-making-noise.html


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Car Alternator Working Intermittently?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2011/12/car-alternator-working-intermittently.html

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Car not starting or turning over indicates towards multiple possibilities. It can be issue with battery or weak battery. But if battery checks out ok, then it can be starter issue or faulty alternator or problem with low fuel pressure or no spark at spark plugs due to dirty spark plugs or faulty ignition coil or injectors getting cracked or dirty and needs to be cleaned.


To confirm the problem, the basic troubleshooting is required.



From start to end troubleshooting these problems I suggest you to check the help link below and follow its procedure: -----


Mostly all types of car no start problems are discussed here with solutions:---

CAR NO START: ENGINE NOT TURNING OVER:

http://alltypesofpartsreplacing.blogspot.com/2012/11/car-no-start-engine-not-turning-over.html

---------

These will help.

Thanks.

Dec 10, 2012 | 1997 Mercury Mystique

2 Answers

New battery keeps going dead no low voltage light


Have the vehicle taken to one of many places that will test the Alternator output etc--narrow it down first without replacing that.

Voltage may drop enough to prevent starting without triggering the low voltage issue.

Jun 14, 2012 | 1997 Ford Escort

1 Answer

Solutions for kia alternator


That doesn't sound like it has anything to do w an alternator, possibly a faulty battery but alternators do stop charging in a second.

Mar 16, 2017 | 2004 Kia Spectra

5 Answers

I had a the battery light on what does it means


The battery light means your alternator is not charging, so if you continue to drive the vehicle your battery will eventually drain and the vehicle will stop.

You can test this by putting a volt meter across the battery posts. A fully charged battery should read 12.6 volts. Then start the engine and the voltage should increase to 13.5 to 15 volts. If you do not get this increase in voltage, then the alternator is not charging, which can be either the wiring to the alternator or the alternator itself being bad. Good luck :O)

Feb 25, 2011 | 2008 Chrysler Sebring Convertible

1 Answer

Upon startup engine idles rough then speeds up and returns to normal idle .After a couple of minutes the volt light comes on then no power then a complete shut down.Starts back up for a while then shuts...


OK, the volt light means that the alternator is not charging the battery. It could mean the battery is shorted out, or the battery is bad or low on charge due to an alternator not charging.

Replace the Alternator and battery as indicated by standard voltage output tests under load.

The computer in the car will not operate the engine properly on low voltage.

Fixing the charging system, may resolve the rough idle (meaning that it may be trying to relearn after data was erased by low voltage of the battery), and the speed up.


Try the charging system first, and once that is repaired, reevaluate the engine driveability and speed and idle smoothness, after it relearns.

Good luck on this repair.

Nov 06, 2010 | 1999 Buick LeSabre

1 Answer

I drove it home and it was fine, i shut it off and within five mins i tried to start it and it would crank but wouldnt turn over, i tried a few more times and it nothing, but now my battery is going low...


Hello,

The first and most likely indication of a low battery would be a hard starting problem caused by slow cranking. If the battery seems weak or fails to crank your engine normally, it may be low. To find out, you need to check the battery's "state of charge."
A battery is nothing more than a chemical storage device for holding electrons until they're needed to crank the engine or run the lights or other electrical accessories on your vehicle. Checking the battery's state of charge will tell you how much juice the battery has available for such purposes.
If your battery is low, it needs to be recharged, not only to restore full power, but also to prevent possible damage to the battery. Ordinary automotive lead-acid storage batteries must be kept at or near full charge to keep the cell plates from becoming "sulfated" (a condition that occurs if the battery is run down and left in a discharged condition for more than a few days). As sulfate builds up, it reduces the battery's ability to hold a charge and supply voltage. Eventually the battery becomes useless and must be replaced.

The charge level depends on the concentration of acid inside the battery. The stronger the concentration of acid in the water, the higher the specific gravity of the solution, and the higher the state of charge.
On batteries with removable caps, state of charge can be checked with a "hydrometer." Some hydrometers have a calibrated float to measure the specific gravity of the acid solution while others simply have a number of colored balls. On the kind with a calibrated float, a hydrometer reading of 1.265 (corrected for temperature) indicates a fully charged battery, 1.230 indicates a 75% charge, 1.200 indicates a 50% charge, 1.170 indicates a 25% charge, and 1.140 or less indicates a discharged battery. On the kind that use floating balls, the number of balls that float tells you the approximate level of charge. All balls floating would indicate a fully charged battery, no balls floating would indicate a dead or fully discharged battery.
Some sealed-top batteries have a built-in hydrometer to indicate charge. The charge indicator only reads one cell, but usually shows the average charge for all battery cells. A green dot means the battery is 75% or more charged and is okay for use or further testing. No dot (a dark indicator) means the battery is low and should be recharged before it is returned to service or tested further. A clear or yellow indicator means the level of electrolyte inside has dropped too low, and the battery should be replaced.

On sealed-top batteries that do not have a built-in charge indicator, the state of charge can be determined by checking the battery's base or open circuit voltage with a digital voltmeter or multimeter. This is done by touching the meter leads to the positive and negative battery terminals while the ignition key is off.
A reading of 12.66 volts indicates a fully charged battery; 12.45 volts is 75% charged, 12.24 volts is 50% charged, and 12.06 volts is 25% charged.

In recharging the battery do not attempt to recharge a battery with low (or frozen) electrolyte! Doing so risks blowing up the battery if the hydrogen gas inside is ignited by a spark.
Your charging system should be capable of recharging the battery if it is not fully discharged. Thirty minutes or so of normal driving should be enough.
If your battery is completely dead or extremely low, it should be recharged with a fast or slow charger. This will reduce the risk of overtaxing and damaging your vehicle's charging system. One or both battery cables should be disconnected from the battery prior to charging it with a charger. This will eliminate any risk of damage to your vehicle's electrical system or its onboard electronics.

Take care and good luck

NB: Your alternator might not also be charging the battery while the car is on, so try to check the alternator.

Alternators are pretty rugged, but can succumb to excessive heat and overwork. They can also be damaged by sudden voltage overloads (as when someone attempts to jump start a dead battery and crosses up the jumper connections or if someone disconnects a battery cable from the battery while the engine is running).
Sometimes alternators can partially fail. In the back of every alternator is a "diode trio" that converts the alternators AC (alternating current) output to DC (direct current). If one or more of these diodes fail, the alternator's amperage output will be reduced. It may continue to produce some current, but not enough to keep the battery fully charged -- especially at idle or low speed.
Most service facilities have test equipment that can identify these kind of problems. So if you suspect a weak alternator, you should have it tested to see if it needs replacing.
Most service facilities do not repair or rebuild alternators because it's too time consuming and requires special parts. Most will replace your old unit with a new or remanufactured unit. Your old alternator is usually traded in or exchanged for a credit (so it can be remanufactured and sold to someone else).

Oct 26, 2010 | Oldsmobile Alero Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

I replaced the battery 3 weeks ago and everything has been fine. My wife drove around everywhere on Friday. She did not drive the van yesterday. It is now Sunday night. My wife went out ot start her van...


Your alternator is going bad. It should only put out 13-14 volts and therefore is overcharging your battery. This causes your battery to get a dead cell. If you replace the alternator and battery, make sure you check the cables for any shorts.

Aug 31, 2009 | 1991 Ford Aerostar Extended

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