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We have a 2001 Oldsmobile Alero we replace the master cylinder and two brake lines we bench bleed the cylinder we also bleed all four calipers. But still no brakes but still no brakes what can the issue be

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  • Oldsmobile Master
  • 5,302 Answers

Possibly there is no clearance between the master cylinder piston and the brake booster push rod which could be preventing the piston returning fully so the fluid inlet port remains covered or partially covered.

When replacing the master cylinder or any part of the brake pedal linkage or brake booster it is important to ensure everything is correctly adjusted and a clearance exists between the booster and master cylinder piston. In the absence of the correct service tool some fancy measuring is needed; a clearance of about 8/10 thou inch is about right. Sometimes the booster pushrod is adjustable and sometimes shims are needed.

Posted on Jul 15, 2018

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 2001 Mustang GT rear brake job

yep this is a two man job, onece you get air in the lines is better to do all four, my has abs and i was able to do it, but next time don't take anylines lose just turn the piston clockwise and you should be able to push it in.

Posted on Oct 12, 2008

  • 1861 Answers

SOURCE: 1996 T-100 dash brake light will not go out

The brake fluid level sensor in the master cylinder is stuck in the lower position which completes the circuit to illuminate the light.. Try tapping lightly on the side of the reservoir to loosen it. If that does not help, you will need to replace the level sensor.
Thanks for choosing FixYa for assistance.

Posted on Jan 25, 2009

  • 1861 Answers

SOURCE: replced front brake pads and calipers adjusted

Bleed the master cylinder first. You have to do that before you belled any calipers or wheel cylinder.

Posted on Feb 22, 2009

c17hydro
  • 2989 Answers

SOURCE: 1996 PLYMOUTH VOYAGER SOFT BRAKE PEDAL AIR IN LINES

I am a hydraulic technician and I can tell you that air is a killer in the hydraulic system.

Start from the rear and work your way forward. I f you are using the two person method, make sure the second person keeps the master cylinder full. If the fluid level dropped anywhere in between pressing and releasing the brakes....you have a lot of air in the system.

Make sure you are tightening the bleed valve when the brake pedal is full pressed.

Remeber...start from the rear brakes first, then do the front.

Posted on Mar 16, 2009

  • 232 Answers

SOURCE: Spongy brakes after bleeding them 2 times. Should I try to bleed the master cylinder or replace it?

Honestly your guess is as good as mine. But I don't think the master cylinder is NOT bad you still have air in the system. Get a big bottle of brake fluid bleed all four sides until you run out of fluid or your brakes work properly. You should divide the bottle's content in four, then use each quantity in each side. You'll be removing air and contaminated fluid from the system. Get a small hose that fits on the bleeders and an appropriate container. I have a good feeling if you do this your brakes will work just fine. I don't know how you are bleeding the brakes. I'll let you know the proper way just in case. This is a two man job, with the wheel off, have someone start the car. Have them pump the brakes a few times to get pressure. 1With the brake pedal UP open the bleeder, 2then have your assistant press the brake pedal all the way down and leave it completely pressed down. 3Close the bleeder valve, once close and only with the valve closed have'm release the brake. Repeat as necessary, bake depressed, open valve first then press brake. DO NOT depress until valve completly closed. Close valve THEN depress. Good Luck!

Posted on May 15, 2009

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I have replaced the master cylinder on my 2006 chrysler town and country about every week we keep losing brake pedal so we have bleed them and get pedal back. the only place i find air is the front driver...


Could be a couple of problems, bad master cylinder (not bench bled properly or bad seal out of the box, I have had a few like that), proportioning valve seal, brake line not tight/sealed properly sucking air into system,bad caliper. First of all, are you losing brake fluid along with your pedal? Need to know that first. If you are, try to find where you losing it from, you will find your problem. There can be absolutly NO leaks in a brake/hydraulic system. If not, check that all lines are tightly seated and nuts are quite tight using a line wrench to get proper torque. If so, you can replace the master cylinder again (take old one back to store for new one under warranty) and be sure to thoroughly bench bleed. When bench bleeding, take your time, do not push plunger in too quickly, use a SLOW steady push until ALL bubbles, no matter how small have been eliminated. Tapping on the bottom of the cylinder while bleeding will help remove trapped air. Even a very small amount of air will take forever to bleed out at the calipers. If cylinder/all calipers/lines appear to be right, I would suspect the proportioning valve is faulty. To find it, follow brake lines from master cylinder to where they go into the valve. Replace. Hope that helps.

May 30, 2011 | 2006 Chrysler Town & Country

1 Answer

I have a 2001 Pontiac Aztek. My brake pedal goes all the way to the floor after have replaced calipers on the front. I put a new master cylinder and booster. Still same problem. My brake fluid has always...


After replacement of any brake componet that requires opening the lines (Brake lines, fluid loss) you have to bleed air out of system. In addition a master cylinder replacement requires a bench bleed before attaching to vehcile.

May 12, 2011 | 2001 Pontiac Aztek

1 Answer

My back brakes on my 2000 Olds Alero are not working. The calipers are not pressing together against the rotor. Help! And a mechanic that I saw said that since he doesn't know if its the master cylinder or...


easiest way to start to diagnose ur problem would be to bleed lines-start with the furthest passenger side rear have someone help and pump up brake pedal -[observe brake to see if caliper moves if no start bleeding] and hold while u open bleeder if no pressure and caliper not moving follow the brake line and try bleeding at connections -regulator,abs,master cylinder till u get fluid to bleed out--if u let the master cylinder get to low before u did ur brake job then bleed that first and then work ur way from back to front -the connection or component where u get fluid and there is none after should be repaired or replaced sometimes debris [rubber metal filing] get in line and blocks valves

Feb 22, 2010 | 2000 Oldsmobile Alero

1 Answer

Where is clutch linkage located on 2004 olds alero ,. hard to put in reverse with out grinding. fluid is up and all other gears are great. thanks!!


sounds like a typical master cylinder problem, pressure is weak. easy to fix once you disconnect the actuator rod from the pedal. The plastic clip has four claws on it, might as wel just pry it off and let it break, the new master cylinder comes with a new one, snaps in easy and master bolts in with 2 bolts on the firewall. Bench bleed the cylinder, install and then bleed the master like you would with brakes.

Nov 07, 2009 | 2004 Oldsmobile Alero

2 Answers

When replacing the brake pads on a 2001 oldsmobile alero do you have to bleed the brakes? and how do you do that? One website said all you have to do is take out 2 bolts (we did that and cant get the...


Normally, just a pad replacement would not necessitate brake bleeding. Most calipers are held on by two bolts, so I think the website was right. The reason you could not get the caliper off (and I am guessing here) is that you did not push the piston(s) back into their bores before trying to remove the caliper. Pushing the pistons back is always necessary to give you enough room to get the new pads into place. A C-clamp does this job well. Before pushing on the pistons with the C-clamp, you need to remove the cover of the brake fluid reservoir under the hood and put a towel or something over the top of it. Pushing the pistons in will push brake fluid back through the lines into the reservoir and will often cause it to overflow.

It sounds like the bolt you removed that started the brake fluid dripping was in fact what is called a bleeder valve. Now that the brake lines have been opened, you may in fact have to bleed the brakes after you get the new pads installed.

Oct 22, 2009 | 2001 Oldsmobile Alero

1 Answer

2001 alero put new master cylender bake hose and lining and still have no brakes


Did you bench bleed the master cylinder? If there is still air in the cylinder or lines, it will compress when you hit the pedal, instead of transferring hydraulic pressure to the brakes. Even if you bled each of the lines after installing them, air could still be trapped in the cylinder itself...

Aug 10, 2009 | 2004 Oldsmobile Alero

2 Answers

Brake calipers


have you tried with a freind open bleeder press brake close bleeder let go of brake some cars absolutley need to be bled in that order

Jun 19, 2009 | 1990 Chevrolet Suburban

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