The front rotors on my Honda have 2 screws I believe are holding them on. I have done everything I know to loosen these screws. After reading the previous issue with Honda Accord rotors, I am now wondering if I actually need to remove these 2 screws. I believe that these screws are rusted. Can anyone give me some ideas or solutions on how to remove these rotors?? I have tried WD40. I have taken a torch to heat up and possibly break up the rust, if rusted. I have started to strip these screws which worries me. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!
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Re: 2006 Honda Accord Rotor removal.
I've been working on Honda's like this for years, including my own, and there are two ways that you can get the screw out. The easiest/best way to do it is with an impact driver and the biggest phillips screwdriver bit you can find (sorry can't remember the number, I think #4 but not sure). Once you have the bit you are good to go and your impact wrench will do the work for you. If you don't have an impact wrench the other way I've learned to do it is by taking a small (12" section) of rebar and a mini sledge hammer and put the rebar directly on the screw (make sure it is straight) and hit it with the hammer. Make sure you hit the rebar and not the car or yourself. You are probably going to have to hit this really hard to break it loose (you can try penetrating oil, not WD-40, along with this method). After you beat the screws for a while, you are going to need the biggest phillps screwdrive you can find, again not sure what size, and you will be able to get this out. If you have started to strip the screws you need to be very careful and if you aren't sure you can get them out without stripping them I might take it to a mechanic and have them loosen them up for you. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks for using FixYa!
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Loosen both front wheel lug nuts and raise car and support on jack stands. Remove wheels and have a friend hold brake pedal down and remove axle nut. Use a chisel or screwdriver to remove stake on nut to axle edge. I use a 3/4 drive set socket and remove axle nut. Rent it from Autozone. Remove caliper assy and support with coat hanger or bungee cord to hold weight of assy off of brake hose. Remove Cotter pin and nut on lower control arm. Separate with ball joint fork and pull strut assy away to the side while pulling stub axle through and out of the way. Remove 4 bolts holding rotor and hub assy. on the inside of steering knuckle and separate. Now remove 4 bolts on hub's outer side and separate rotor and hub. You can use a bar or large screwdriver between wheel studs to loosen the 4 bolts.
Remove wheel. Take off outer driveshaft nut. Remove lower ball joint
pinch bolt & separate ball joint from spindle. Pull rotor &
spindle out & away to pull driveshaft outer splined end out of rotor
center hub. Look on the back of the spindle for the 4 bolts that hold
in the wheel bearing. Use a 12 point socket to remove the 4 bolts and
remove wheel bearing from spindle (out towards the wheel stud side).
Probably will have to use a air chisel to get it out. Once it's out undo
the 4 bolts on the outer (wheel stud side) of the rotor and remove the
rotor from the hub. Clean & lube the hole where the bearing was in
the spindle & the inner face of the hub. MAKE SURE IT'S CLEAN
otherwise you may get a pulsation on braking if theres a piece of rust
or dirt between the rotor center & the hub face. Reverse procedure
If the rear bolts don't come out then you will have to use a
slide hammer to separate the bearing to replace the rotor and there is a
very good chance you will need to replace the wheel bearing after
you're done (noisy on road test).
Not the job to do at home,
usually an easy 2-3 hours per side if things go bad (book time is 2.2
hrs per side). Use good quality rotors as you don't want to have to do
it again because a cheap rotor gave you a pulsation.
The front rotors don't need to be pressed off. Once your brake calipers are removed, the rotors will come off of the front hub. Some have a couple of countersunk screws that hold them in place, and they are between the wheel mounting studs. If your rotors won't come off easily, some tapping with a hammer on a block of wood on the back side of the rotor should help, as often they can get stuck around the wheel studs.
Sorry to hear that you are having trouble with your accord. The distributor rotor is simple to remove, it has a screw behind the rotor blade, although this may not be visible to you because of the current position of the rotor. Try and start the the car; this will cause the rotor to spin and expose the screw you need to loosen to remove the rotor.
first you need to remove the wheel. if its the rear rotor, then its easy to do. all you need to do is remove the 2 bolts holding the brake caliper on, then remove the 2 bolts holding the caliper mounting bracket. after those are removed, the rotor should just slide right off. if your removing the front, then follow the previous steps, but also use a large socket to remove the big nut right in the center of the rotor.after that is done, it should slide off easily.
Rais and support Vehicle, Remove Wheels Remove 2 Small 10-13mm Bolts Holding Brake Caliper on Remove Caliper Use Large "C" Clamp to Push Caliper Piston IN ALL The Way .
Then Look for 18mm Bolt that Holds Caliper On This is The Caliper AnkorRemove the bolts and there may Be Philips Head Screws Holding Rotor On if So Remove them then Remove Rotor. I Hope This Helps you
you will need to remove the 2 front signal lights by loosening the single captive screw on each of them. under the signal lights , you will see 2 14" bolts holding each side of the bumper. make sure you loosen the screws that hold the bumber to the fenders.